Dec 23, 2009
Out today: exclusive website A Small World has a feature on Florianópolis, a.k.a. Floripa, with all the best addresses. A must-read for anyone going there for New Year's.
Here's the link to the full story.
And here are the places they recommend:
Il Campanário Villagio Resort Avenida dos Búzios, 1760, Jurerê Internacional
Phone: +55 48 3261 6000
Praia Mole Eco Village Rodovia Jornalista Manoel de Menezes, 2001, Praia Mole
Phone: +55 48 3239 7500
Majestic Palace Avenida Beira Mar Norte, 2746, Centro
Phone: +55 48 3231 8000
Floripa Inbound Rodovia Jornalista Manoel de Menezes, 2001
Phone: +55 48 9609 0000
Ostradamus Ribeirão da Ilha, 7640
Phone: +55 48 3337 5711
Bar do Arante Rua Abelardo Otacílio Gomes, 254
Phone: +55 48 3237-7022
Sabor da Costa
Boat leaves from Lagoa da Conceiçao at Cooperbarcos
Must inform that the destination is "Sabor da Costa"
Phone: +55 48 3335 3070 / +55 48 9973 7778
Cooperbarcos (Lagoa da Conceição to Costa da Lagoa)
Rua Senador Ivo D'Aquino, 145 - Lagoa da Conceição
Phone: +55 48 3232 8266
Thai Restaurant Estrada Geral da Joaquina, 555, Lagoa da Conceição
Phone: +55 48 3232 4181 / +55 48 8406 3991
Pizzaria Basilico Rua Laurindo Januário da Silveira, 647, Canto da Lagoa
Phone: +55 48 3232 1129
Restaurante Patagônia Rua Laurindo Januário da Silveira, 1233, Canto da Lagoa
Phone: +55 48 3232 5679 / +55 48 9983 8038
Fatto a Mano Avenida Afonso Delambert Neto, 103, Lagoa da Conceição
Phone +55 48 3232 3272
Phone: +55 48 3232 8458
Café Riso Rua Bocaiúva, 2090, Centro
Phone: +55 48 3223 8753
Bistro D'Campora Rodovia SC 401, 10300, Santo Antônio de Lisboa
Phone: +55 48 3235 1073
Il Caravaggio Av. Luiz Boiteux Piazza, 3180, Cachoeira do Bom Jesus
Phone +55 48 3284 8210
Pacha Rodovia Maurício Sirotsky Sobrinho
Phone: +55 48 3282 2054
Phone: +55 48 3282 2533
Confraria das Artes Rua João Pacheco da Costa, 31, Lagoa da Conceição
Phone: +55 48 3232 2298
El Divino Lounge Avenida Beira Mar Norte, Centro
Phone: +55 48 2335 1266
Yaah! Temakeria Rua Bocaiúva, 2297, Centro
Phone: +55 48 3879 9693
Taiko Lounge Rua Madre Benvenuta, 687 (ground floor Iguatemi Shopping Mall)
Phone: +55 48 3029 1099
Vecchio Giorgio Avenida Afonso Delambert Neto, 103, Lagoa da Conceição
Phone: +55 48 3232 0600
Cafe de la Musique Avenida dos Merlins
Phone: +55 48 3282 1325
Reveillon Boutique and Carnaval Boutique Alameda Cesar Nascimento, 500, Jurere
Phone: +55 48 3222 4009
Dec 22, 2009
I was asked by IN, a super cool Chilean magazine, to choose São Paulo's top up-and-coming fashion designers. The story is out this month, in their annual shopping edition. They published a summarized version, so here is the full version:
Rua Oscar Freire, 236, tel. (11)3083-7805
Alameda Lorena, 1257, casa 2, Jardins, tel. (55-11) 3891-1229
Dec 21, 2009
Feeling good about your year-end finances? Want to go on a last-minute New Year's escapade to Brazil? Here are the 7-night and 4-night packages being offered at one of Brazil's top hotels, the small and ultra exclusive Ponta dos Ganchos, near Florianópolis:
7 nights, checking in December 27, out Jan 10:
Super Luxo Duplo (3 pessoas)
Super Luxo Duplo (4 pessoas)
Bangalôs da Vila
Bangalô Especial da Vila
Bangalôs da Vila Esmeralda
Bangalô Especial da Vila
4 night-package, checking in Dec. 28, out Jan. 4
Super Luxo Duplo (3 pessoas)
Super Luxo Duplo (4 pessoas)
Bangalôs da Vila
Bangalô Especial da Vila
Bangalôs da Vila Esmeralda
Bangalô Especial da Vila
Governador Celso Ramos – Santa Catarina - Brasil
Tel. +55 48 3953-7000
Click here to read more about Ponta dos Ganchos, a Relais & Châteaux property.
Set to open in October of 2010, Shopping JK Iguatemi will be a giant in a city of giants. Three office towers, one luxury mall with 240 boutiques, etc. etc. - the numbers (of millions being spent on construction, of the square footage) are staggering.
In the meantime, the original Iguatemi, which for many years has been the poshest mall in town, is rolling out new stuff. November saw the opening of an Isabella Giobbi pop-up store, selling not only the designer's summer collection (think lots of silk and firefly prints) but also coffee table books and things for the home.
- Outlet Premium, Brazil's first upscale outlet mall
- Marc Jacobs rocks the São Paulo fashion world and opens a flagship in town
- São Paulo Fashion Week: what is it?
- Rua Oscar Freire, in the Jardins district, has the best shopping
- The best beachwear: Lenny, Rosa Chá, Cia. Marítima
- Is/bella, Pelu, Jo de Mer and other Baixo Jardins finds
- Beach Couture: luxe beachwear in the Jardins district
- Christian Louboutin opens store in the Shopping Iguatemi mall
- Daslu, the Barneys New York of São Paulo: high luxe
- Who is Eliana Tranchesi, the owner of Daslu
- The flagship of Rio brand Farm, in Vila Madalena: a "living" lowrise designed by hyped architecture firm Triptyque
- São Paulo Fashion Week 2009: the official schedule of runway shows
Dec 17, 2009
I pretty much love any book by Taschen, but there's a new one out by them that is the perfect Xmas gift for anyone planning a trip to Brazil: Mario de Janeiro Testino.
Peruvian by birth, Testino has been fascinated by Rio de Janeiro since his earliest summer vacations. "When I was 14, on holiday, and going from my house to the beach and seeing everyone walk everywhere in their tiny bathing suits—the girls and boys were so sexy and carefree and wild—I just could not believe it."
Rio has been his muse ever since and he's used the city as backdrop for countless photo shoots (he is a regular contributor to Vanity Fair and several Vogues).
MaRIO DE JANEIRO Testino, like the city itself, is sensual, colourful, naughty, life-loving.
Here are two photos featured in the book:
The book includes:
• Foreword by bossa nova legend Caetano Veloso
• Introduction by actress/TV personality Regina Casé
• Essay by supermodel Gisele Bündchen
• Softcover with plastic jacket—for beach reading—available in yellow, orange or red, inspired by Rio's sunsets
And click here to read about Taschen's other new book on Brazil: Bahia Style.
Dec 15, 2009
Santo André, Bahia: remember that name. The tiny village just North of Porto Seguro has been chosen by the well-heeled paulistas as their New Year's destination and they'll descend en masse right after Christmas, flying in from São Paulo as soon as family Xmas obligations are dealt with.
Who's to blame? DJ and party organizer Duty, who's throwing a mega-blaster New Year's Party to end all New Year's parties, dubbed Dolce Vita at a farm called Fazenda Amendoeiras.
Dec 14, 2009
Better safe than sorry: if you plan on being in Trancoso for New Year's Eve, I recommend that you buy tickets for some of the parties now, before they run out...
Here's what's on the schedule:
28/12 Pré-réveillon at the Uxua Praia Bar.
30/12 Pré-reveillón at CACAU restaurant
31/12 Taípe rave, a Trancoso tradition, and also dinner-dance New Year's Party at the Estrela d'água hotel
02/01 party at Pousada Aldeia do Sol on the Praia do Rio Verde.
You can buy a package which includes entry at all parties EXCEPT the ones on New Year's Eve, which all have an open bar, R$ 350 (girls) and R$ 500 (guys).
More info here.
Dec 11, 2009
François Simon, the intimidating restaurant critic at France's Le Figaro, was in São Paulo a few months ago and fell in love with the city's vibrant restaurant scene.
Now he's released a video on You Tube, narrated in French, of course, where he praises very highly D.O.M., Fasano and Aizomê restaurants.
He also loved Mocotó, a whole-in-the-wall specializing in food from the Nordeste, except that he called it, mistakingly, Tordesilhas. OOOOOooops! Who every said renowned critics don't err?
Dec 8, 2009
The réveillon (New Year's party) on Copacabana Beach is the biggest party on Earth, and here's why:
Every year on the 31st of December millions of cariocas, the natives of Rio, flock to Copacabana beach, all dressed in white, from all corners of the town and the country, to bid farewell to the year that is ending and toast the arrival of the new year. And yes, I said millions. Two million people, on average, gather on the sands, all in a peaceful party vibe.
Rich, poor, young, old, white, black.
Many bring elaborate offerings (miniature boats containing lit candles, food, drink, etc) to ship out to sea to Iemanjá, African Goddess of the Waters. Candles light the sand as the crowd waits for the big event: the fireworks display, the biggest of its kind in the world.
Riotur says "the World Records Academy gave the Fireworks Company the award the "Biggest Pyrotechnic Show on Barges in the World" during the New Year´s Eve in Rio de Janeiro which lighted the 4Km of the Copacabana Beach during 22 minutes."
The city puts on several outdoor concerts, all free of charge and very well organized. Cops are everywhere, to guarantee that tourists and revellers stay safe.
After midnight, Brazilians all walk down to the crashing surf and hop seven waves on their right foot, an ancient custom that is thought to bring good vibes and start off the new year on a high note.
Then they all dance the night away.
What's not to love?
I could go on an on about why I love Rio, but I'll leave it to my friend and travel guru Ricardo Freire, a.k.a. Riq, author of several travel books and blogs, to explain that oh-so-unexplainable allure that no other city in the world can beat. His text, below, is a beautiful love letter to Rio:
If you ever ask me why I travel, I’m probably going to answer “In order to see if I can find any place more enchanting than Rio”.
So far I haven’t. Other towns may be superior in one way or another, but get low grades in so many items – such as Bahianas’ wing, enthusiasm and headpieces [items judged in carnival parades] – that on average Rio wins by far.
If you insist on international standards of judgement, OK, here we go: Rio gets Oscars for scenery, art direction, casting, (lack of) costumes, screenplay and original soundtrack. Where else on this planet can you find perfect beaches, a great cultural scene, world-class gastronomy, ample shopping opportunities and an exotic people, everything packed in a single place, yours to enjoy anytime of the year?
To begin with – and I love to say this, because I manage to infuriate at once both Paulistas and Cariocas – Rio is the best thing about São Paulo.
The very Ponte Aérea [the Air Shuttle between São Paulo and Rio, the first of its kind in the world, dating from the 60's] is a fabulous idea – an invention made in Brazil, mind you, product of the alliance between Capital and the desire to flee Labor. The entire flight is gorgeous. Provided the weather is good, you’ll get 30 uninterrupted minutes of coastline being drawn right under your nose: Ilhabela island, Ilha Grande bay, Marambaia cape. Landing is even prettier. The plane dives dangerously toward an airfield that lies beside a Lilliputian Manhattan-like skyline – but as soon as you find yourself out of the plane, the vision of Sugar Loaf mountain at the left corner of the frame eliminates any doubt and welcomes you to Rio de Janeiro.
After being intensely fought over by three different women who tease you with the same provoking words (“Taxi, Sir? Taxi?), you get on an old Chevrolet cab and glide along the 1950’s lawns of Aterro – the old money of Flamengo beachfront buildings contemplating you from the right hand side, the Sugar Loaf getting closer and closer on your left hand side, and the complete works reminding you that this country has already had cooler aesthetic aspirations.
A little bit later you’ll cross the tunnel and get to Copacabana – the country’s lost ID, the broken mirror of our soul (I give up. No definition I may come up with will be sharper than “Purgatory of beauty and chaos” © Fausto Fawcett).
If Brazil decided to undertake an orthomolecular treatment and had to cut a single hair for sample, this hair (originally curled, then chemically turned straight) would be Copacabana.
We are all there: broke millionaires and emerging favela-dwellers, big land owners and homeless children, retired elders and office boys, upper middle class, lower middle class, fatter middle class, thinner middle class, people of every SPF and from a plethora of genders sharing an one-bedroom neighbourhood complete with six life-saving posts. Copacabana doesn’t live: Copacabana exposes herself. Being able to walk barefoot in Speedos by Nossa Senhora de Copacabana avenue at rush hour reveals more about our civilization than five years studying Social Sciences at the local U.
I love it but – no, thank you. I’d rather watch Copacabana from a safe distance – at Ipanema or Leblon. It’s prettier; you can go to Plataforma steakhouse invoking the late Jobim (when the truth is you’re going because of the after-beach air-con); and you can always answer “Pela Lagoa” (”By the way of the Lagoon”), no matter what the taxi driver asks.
Farther than that you may only go (and come back as soon as possible) to the Reserva or Prainha beaches; to Quinta, Bira’s or Tia Palmira’s restaurants; or exceptionally to a concert at Citibank Hall.
In other words: skip Barra da Tijuca. So far Barra doesn’t regard out-of-towners as you and me. Living at Barra seems to be some sort of space program made available to the local taxpaying folks. Barra da Tijuca is Copacabana’s Moon.
(By the way: don’t be fooled by the assumption that in order to go the beach you must go to Barra. It’s true that Barra beaches are cleaner and less crowded than Ipanema or Copa. But if you want beaches that are cleaner and less crowded than Rio’s, then don’t come to Rio. The most interesting natural aspect of Rio beaches is the fauna. It’s not worth going though weekend traffic just for a quick taste of the mineral kingdom.)
What makes Rio an outstanding place to spend your vacation is the fact that here the tourist is never an intruder. The tourist is just taking part at local people’s vacations.
This is no criticism. In fact, everything done outdoors in Rio looks, smells, tastes and feels like vacation. Cariocas probably don’t realize, but jogging at the seabord by 6 AM is like going on vacation for half an hour everyday. Having a beer at a sidewalk bar after work (even if you did Japanese-long hours) is a piece of vacation. On a sunny Sunday, your city may stop dead – but Rio goes on vacation. It’s such a pleasure to spend your vacation in a place so well equipped for its own dwellers’ vacations.
But then again you’ll never understand any of this, if you live day and night under acquired paranoia syndrome.
I know, it’s stronger than you. You’ve read about it in the press. You saw in the movies. Friends have warned you time and again. But tell me something: if Rio were that dangerous, how come there are so many people in the streets all the time? How do you explain the groups of old ladies who go to the theater? Why do so many people still insist on going to the beach? The really dangerous cities are those that will keep you at home, three remotes in hand, for not offering anything fun to be done outside.
The truth is: no crime is bigger than forgetting that the the most interesting city is a 10 or 12-hour tops flight from any major city in the West.
But going to Rio doesn’t have anything to to with justice. It’s all about pleasure.
Go, go, go.
And please don’t shy away of doing all the touristy stuff. Go up the Sugar Loaf and the Corcovado; watch a Flamengo match; go on parade on a samba school – and realize that sometimes clichés can be justified. Follow the latest trend – it may fade in about 15 minutes, but it’s going to be fun. Revisit the classics. Have tea at Confeitaria Colombo, attend a show at Teatro Rival, stalk TV actors at Dias Ferreira restaurant row, have a pork sandwich at Cervantes, start a movement to include Bracarense’s black bean broth at the Unesco cultural treasures list.
And, whenever in doubt, answer “Pela Lagoa” (PAY-luh Lah-GO-uh) no matter what the taxi driver asks.
2- Santo André, Bahia
3- Trancoso, Bahia
4- Boipeba, Bahia
5- Barra Grande, Bahia
So, in short: when in doubt, go to Bahia for New Year's! :)
Here are more details, from the press release:
“A truly Asian taste experience, Asia restaurant is situated in the heart of Santa Teresa’s bohemian community, 10 minutes from downtown via the picturesque Bonde, the only surviving tram service in Rio. It’s also just 15 minutes from Copacabana, and 20 minutes from Ipanema.
Its beautiful heritage building has been transformed with stylish modern designer interiors, offering dining and drinking on four levels, overlooking the lush tropical terraced gardens that form a part of one of the largest urban forests in the world.The menu, prepared by a team of Gold Medal award-winning master chefs, offers the tastes and flavours of Asia, including specialities from Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand and India.
Asia also introduces Dim Sum to Rio for the first time, a selection of steamed, fried and baked delicacies, similar to Spanish tapas. As well as Dim Sum, there is a menu with wider Asian influences, including traditional Malaysian Satay, stir-fries, exotic curries, and mouth-watering desserts. For the uninitiated, sampler menus will enable guests to experience the full range of these exciting new taste sensations.Asia is also introducing an extensive selection of specially imported Chinese teas.
(...) The glass-walled kitchen level offers tables as well, allowing guests to see the chefs at work, with special Dim Sum and noodle-making demonstrations during service. "
Asia Restaurante E Bar: Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 256Santa Teresa, Tel: 55- 21 2224 2014
Dec 7, 2009
Dec 6, 2009
Supper clubs are everywhere, and the reason why they keep proliferating is obvious: everyone loves to be able to go out to dinner and then be able to stay on at the same place for the post-dinner party. Call it a two-in-one deal.
From what I hear, Boox in Ipanema is Rio's answer to the supper club craze. Asian-fusion-impossible-to-describe food is totally beside the point: go for the beautiful décor and the party vibe. Oh, and it doesn't hurt that it's only a few blocks away from the hottest hotel in town, the Fasano.
Rua Barão da Torre, 368 - Ipanema
After years of braving huge traffic jams to get to their manses-by-the-beach, São Paulo natives decided that driving two hours from the city to their beach houses had become too great of a hassle. Many are flocking to the "campo". Hence the flurry of new ultra-luxurious developments in Sao Paulo's countryside.
The most high-profile of'em all, of course, is the one that bears the Fasano seal of quality. The Fazenda Boa Vista, so named because it is being built in what once an actual fazenda, or farm, is a gated community of weekend homes for the ultra rich, located in Porto Feliz, two hours west of São Paulo.
JHSF, the developers, even tennis pros Maria Sharapova and Gisela Dulko (da Argentina) to be the stars at the official launch, this weekend.
Lot owners must choose from a list of renowned architects who have been recruited for this project, so that the resulting look of the place is harmonious in its elegant modernity (Marcos Tomanik, Marcio Kogan, Erick Figueira de Mello, Thiago Bernardes and Paulo Jacobsen, Cândida Tabet, Antônio Scarpa, Sig Bergamin, Carolina Maluhy and Isis Chaulon).
Some houses will be built by the developers themselves, and will be called Villas Fasano. These will all be designed by Isay Weinfeld, Fasano's signature architect.
Why would any of this interest someone visitting Brazil? It wouldn't. Unless the person knows someone who's bought one of the fazenda's lots. Only their friends and acquaintances will be able to book a room at the first ever country-style Fasano, a small hotel to be run by the Fasano family with a mere 26 rooms.
The hotel, also designed by Isay Weinfeld, will have an adjoining Fasano restaurant, bien sûr, and also an outpost of the famed Baretto, São Paulo's chicest piano bar.
We'll keep you all posted on the progress.
Dec 3, 2009
In a veritable sea of jewelry designers - Brazil is awash in girls who claim to be the new H.Stern - it girl Camila Sarpi stands out. Her pieces are thought-out and completely unique (and it doesn't hurt that she is a stunner, single and fab).
This week Camila launched her latest collection, Galáxia. The name is pretty self-explanatory, but I especially love the kryptonite bangle, large and rough and gorgeous.
Here's where you can find Camila's jewelry:
Camila Sarpi on show at New York's MoMA
Camila Sarpi's official website