Brazil for Insiders

São Paulo hotels and restaurants for high-rollers: top addresses

2012-02-02T15:38:00.000-08:00

By Alexandra Forbes

Although the bustling city of 19 million has long reigned as Brazil’s gastronomic and shopping meca, for years its restaurants remained an insider’s secret, as tourists preferred the sunnier and more laid-back cities to the North, such as Rio or Salvador. No more: the recent economic boom has drawn attention to the increasingly opulent metropolis boasting world-class restaurants, shops and hotels.

D.O.M. restaurant

RESTAURANTS

For seasoned foodies, no visit to São Paulo is complete without a visit to Maní (www.manimanioca.com.br) and D.O.M. (www.domrestaurante.com.br), restaurants which, in very novel ways, give little-known Brazilian ingredients a new guise.

Just as importantly, paulistanos (as São Paulo natives are referred to) saw their long-lived infatuation with sushi take flight: today, there are an eye-popping 600 Japanese restaurants in town. At the city’s premium Japanese restaurants, dish presentation and raw fish quality rival the best in Japan. Competing for the title of best sushiman in São Paulo are Jun Sakamoto (no website, tel. 55-11-3088-6019) – cerebral, temperamental, traditionalist, owner of the celebrated eponymous restaurant – and Tsuyoshi Murakami, a born showman whose wildly creative and artfully presented tasting menus served at Kinoshita (www.kinoshita.com.br) dazzle locals and tourists alike.

Fasano restaurant

HOTELS

A great luxury hotel is one thing, but one where there are almost always well-known figures of the local business and arts crowds milling around the lobby at happy hour, drink in hand? Only at the Fasano (www.fasano.com.br) , to be sure, the most glamorous of the city’s growing number of five stars. It also holds the title of hotel with the best piano bar (where even big stars like Caetano Veloso have sung) and the poshest Italian restaurant in town (also called Fasano).

Worthiest competitors include the design-driven Emiliano (www.emiliano.com.br), a mere four blocks away – with rooftop pool, spa and helipad – and the Grand Hyatt (http://saopaulo.grand.hyatt.com) , favoured by the business crowd, located in the modern, office-tower-heavy Berrini district.

Shopping Cidade Jardim

BOUTIQUES - SHOPPING

It’s amazing how many new shopping centers pop up each year in the city, such as the Vila Olímpia, opened in 2010. The granddaddy of them all, the Shopping Iguatemi (www.iguatemisaopaulo.com.br), is going as strong as ever: it houses the Tiffany flagship and many of Brazil’s most desireable brands, like Carlos Miele and Cris Barros.
But no mall comes close to matching the new Cidade Jardim in sheer refinement and beauty. Its open-air, tastefully-landscaped esplanades are home to some of the world’s chicest brands, including the biggest Louis Vuitton and first Hermès stores in Latin America. Petrossian opened its first boutique there a few months ago. London-based Issa and the American Tory Burch are next.

Speto's grafitti art: from São Paulo to Miami's Primary Flight

2012-01-26T08:45:00.000-08:00

I've been a longtime fan of many of São Paulo's great grafitti artists, of which Speto is my favourite.

After years of not seeing him, we ran into each other at Cavalera's fashion show, which was held at the Estação da Luz, a gorgeous old train station in São Paulo's Centro (Old Downtown).

That was enough excuse for me to write up a little post on him, so I could share some of his favourite work with you (photos below were taken from Speto's Flickr feed).

At the last Art Basel Miami, Speto's gallerist Baixo Ribeiro, who owns Choque Cultural gallery, accompanied him as Speto worked on his first work for Primary Flight - an open-air museum.

The work, pictured below, will be on show until the next editon of the art fair, in December.

Photo: Moro no Rio

Here's the link to Speto's Flickr photo album, with more of his work

Brazil: its history, summarized, and a few of its architectural highlights

2012-01-03T04:09:00.000-08:00

Recife, in Northeastern Brazil

by Alexandra Forbes

The Portuguese admiral Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil by accident in 1500. His fleet had set out in search of Indian spices, but favorable winds pushed them towards an exuberant and unknown land. They dropped anchor in the palm-lined bay of Porto Seguro, in what is today the southern part of the state of Bahia. There are still signs of their arrival: the first whitewashed churches in Porto Seguro and in the neighboring Arraial d’Ajuda attract curious tourists to this day.

The Portuguese organized their new territory into two captaincies (the administrative order of the time) – Pernambuco, north of Bahia, and São Vicente, in what is now the state of São Paulo – and they flourished. Pernambuco in particular grew and prospered thanks to the sugar trade, and soon the colony’s de facto capital was Olinda – Pernambuco’s main city, perched on a hill for protection. Its highest point is home to the São Salvador do Mundo church, better known as Alto da Sé. Built in 1537 as a testament to the wealth of the sugar magnates, this ornate church was adorned with an intricate design of gold leaf and painted tiles. Even today, the church and its surroundings are the nucleus of Olinda’s tourist hub.

Recife's Capela Dourada

The nearby village of Recife boasted deeper waters and a better port, so it soon surpassed Olinda as Brazil’s most prominent city. As Recife’s prosperity grew, the local churches became more luxurious. The Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel) was opened to the public in 1697, taking its name from the tremendous quantity of gold that covers its complex wooden engravings. The chapel is part of the Santo Antônio convent and remains one of the city’s most glorious legacies from this period.

Salvador's Elevador Lacerda

But back to Bahia, where a Portuguese king eventually declared the region’s principal city, Salvador, to be capital of the colony. Salvador da Bahia flourished as a result, becoming the most important city in Brazil. Many of its buildings and churches date back to the 17th century and are concentrated in the historic Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa, the two levels of the city that since 1872 have been connected by the famous Lacerda Elevator.

After Brazil had been established as a major exporter of sugar, and later coffee and gold, the Portuguese colonists began to expand through the rest of the country. Much of the country’s architectural riches from these days can be found in cities like Paraty and Rio de Janeiro, as well as in the mountain cities of Ouro Preto, Tiradentes and Mariana, heart of the gold rush.

Paraty, near Rio

Strangely, São Paulo, the undisputed financial and cultural capital of the country, has its origins in poverty and neglect. Wealthy industrialists didn’t build large mansions on Avenida Paulista until the early 20th century. Only a few of these palaces have survived, but the avenue remains a symbol of the city’s economic dominance. The most iconic structure is the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP). A large box of glass and cement, held aloft by red pillars, this building was designed by renowned architect Lina Bo Bardi and is an essential stop for any tourist.

MASP Museum in São Paulo

Around the time when the MASP was constructed, in the 1950s and 60s, São Paulo also enjoyed an architectural boom thanks to the work of architect Oscar Niemeyer. Known primarily for Brasilia, the current capital of the country, Niemeyer’s buildings in São Paulo are just as extraordinary and, most importantly, are easily accessible to most travelers. They include the spectacular Auditório Ibirapuera, the OCA exhibition center and the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM), which are all located in Ibirapuera Park, as well as the city’s architectural landmark, the COPAN, in the city’s downtown.
It’s ironic that São Paulo, once known as a gray and industrial city, now possesses some of Brazil’s greatest architectural gems.

In fact, the country’s 500 years of history are most evident the largest cities, like São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Each chapter, from the sugar and coffee eras to the discovery of gold, from independence to industrialization and now globalization, has left indelible marks on the urban tapestry. Each new wave of visitors – the Portuguese, African slaves and immigrants from Europe and Japan – has led to new neighborhoods and new architectural styles. The Portuguese may have imposed their tastes and customs over the first two centuries, but today the sheer variety of Brazil’s cities reveals the diversity of its people. In

Olinda

Iglesia de São Salvador do Mundo

Alto da Sé

www.embratur.gov.br

São Paulo

Museu de Arte de São Paulo, Masp

Av. Paulista 1578

Admission: US$8.50

www.masp.art.br

Auditório Ibirapuera

Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, (no address number) – Portão 2

Tel. 55-11-3629-1075

www.auditorioibirapuera.com.br

Oca

Parque do Ibirapuera, portão 1 y 2 – (no address number)

MAM

Parque do Ibirapuera, portão 3 – (no address number)

Admission: US$3.50

www.mam.org.br

COPAN

Av. Ipiranga 200, downtown

www.copansp.com.br

Recife

Capela Dourada

Rua Imperador Dom Pedro II, 206

www.embratur.gov.br

Salvador da Bahia

www.bahia.com.br/motix/pt_br

Whale watching in Praia do Rosa

2011-09-18T18:51:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Ok, I know, no excuse for me. I won´t spend time explaining why I haven´t posted anything for the last month. So, let me just introduce you to this wonderful place, called Praia do Rosa, in the southern state of Santa Catarina. It´s about 70 kilometers south from capital Florianópolis, but it can - and it will! - take you at least two hours by car to get there, because traffic congestion is a fact. Try getting there in midmorning instead of late afternoon, as you´ll have to cross city center and it means huge delays. But even these caveats are no reason to avoid visiting this gorgeous region where whale watching is a must during the months of july through october.

Everyone who has seen whales know that catching a glimpse of its tail is somewhat difficult. But in Praia do Rosa all the way to Garopaba - 15 kilometers away - and around, you can view as much as 5 of these enormous mammals in just a couple of minutes, depending where you stand. You might be on the beach and observe them playing, caring for their pup and take a lot of pictures such as those here. Or you can also board a 1,5 hr guided tour in Garopaba( www.vidasolemar.com.br) and get so close that you could actually touch them - as they approach fearlessly and harmlessly.

We spent a lovely weekend in a charming pousada called Solar Mirador(www.solarmirador.com.br) from which we had an incredible view of the Praia do Rosa in its whole extension. You are also steps away from the beach ( surf, STP and good hiking around) and the setting is amazing, the service very kind and professional and we were extremely lucky with the weather. Two sunny days on a row after a week of rain. And if you´re around, don´t miss the whales, which are called francas, and I promise it´s one experience of a lifetime and you´ll be thrilled!

Gastronomic festival in Tiradentes

2011-08-15T11:53:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Just a quick reminder, because maybe you´ve just heard some rumors about the gastronomic festival which will be held in Tiradentes, the charming colonial town located 333 kilometers from Rio de Janeiro. Dates? It´s starts on Friday 19th and finishes on the 28th of August. Your best bet is to check their site http://www.culturaegastronomia.com.br/ or through the phone 31-30291686 .

The Gourmet Fest is only one of the events which take place in Tiradentes, but it´s certainly one of the busiest time of the year. People come from all places and the hotels are probably booked long in advance. But don´t loose hope: try to find accommodation somewhere in the vicinity. My suggestion would be a place called Hotel Fazenda Rochedo ( tel.55 32 3354 2439 or check their site www.hotelfazendarochedo.com.br. This cozy hotel is located some 30 km from Tiradentes. While away from the buzzling festival, you can go horseriding and hiking. Best of all, sleep amidst a beautiful landscape. On the other hand, you can spend the day in Tiradentes and enjoy several workshops and demos which are presented in spaces open to the public.

Reputed chefs, such as Paco Roncero and Alex Atala are going to be present at the Fest and will host special dinners. I am not sure if you are still on time to get tickets for these festims, as they are called, but nevertheless try through the phone 55 31 30291686. Or check the festival´s site www.culturaegastronomia.com.br These culinary treats do not come cheap, but it´s a once in a lifetime experience.

Barra de São Miguel, a place to be revisited

2011-08-10T15:47:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann/photos by Rogério Maranhão

Can you see that picture above? Well, that´s where I will head to in October. Okay, I understand if you feel a bit envious. Off the beaten track it is - a marvellous beach called Barra de São Miguel, 30 kms from Alagoas´ state capital, Maceió. I remember going there...hummm...20 years ago, to spend New Year´s Eve. Our family and some friends had rented a house for 10 days and spent a memorable vacation. There was nothing besides a few villas lined along the deserted beach and the weather was perfect. So, that´s the place filled with memories where I want to go back. Now, in style, as a host of this eco-chic design resort called Kenoa, a new kid (just off) the block, which opened less than 2 years ago.

This impressive architecture is home to 23 luxurious suites, ranging from 45 to 200 square meters, depending which accommodation you choose. Some even have a private jacuzzi overlooking the beach. Whow! I am looking forward, that´s for sure! Specially when summer´s crowds have not yet arrived and this stretch of sandy beach is the perfect haven for relaxing, fancy long walks and tan yourself under the nicest weather ever.

Barra de São Miguel could easily become the destination on everybody´s lips, specially when you can stay in such a serenely stylish paradise known to only the savviest of travellers. But I´d feel bad if I wouldn´t share this secret with you, and though I still do not know the Kenoa personally, there´s little doubt that it will be a knock-out! Besides all the ammenities in the room, there´s a spa, a restaurant and a lounge to feel as pampered as royalty.

Spending nights in this beautiful environement is a vital part of any holiday. As I am focused on suggesting special spots for spending New Year´s Eve, I wouldn´t be pushing the envelope if I didn´t tell those nature buffs to consider Barra de São Miguel as a perfect choice. It may - as usual! - cost you a leg and an arm, but trust me, it´s worth it. I´ve been told that they still have availability, so...rush!

Every detail in the Kenoa draws my eyes like a magnet, as creature comforts were not overlooked: huge luxurious bed, peerless views, wi fi, huge TV, you name it. I expect my stay to be deliriously good and I promise to keep you posted.

www.kenoaresort.com

tel.55 82 3272 1285

Flexeiras, very secluded hub for New Year´s Eve

2011-08-04T16:06:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Just take a deep breath - and a good look! - at the picture, then at the tiny swimming pools behind the coconut trees, then at the sandy beach, the translucid sea...Yes, it´s real. Doesn´t it make you want to transpond yourself immediately into that pretty setting? Now, just fancy yourself arriving in this fishing village called Flexeiras - just about 40km from capital Fortaleza, Ceará - which, did I mentionned before, is my favorite state in the whole of Brazil. Chances are that after reading this post you´ll have the urge to consider spending New Year´s Eve there, just splurging but also enjoying one of the most privy place on earth. The resort is called Orixas Art Hotel ( www.orixasarthotel.com.br) and is relatively a new kid on the block - oops! sorry, on this beautiful fragment of sandy beach located a world away from the agitated places.

But, even if it can cost you a leg and an arm ( which usually happens during high season and specially the end of the year), you´ll need to look no further than a few feet to unearth the best unspoilt beach ever. From your suite - which bear names like Babalaós, Oxum, Yemanjá , Obaluayá, all deities from Afro-Brazilian culture, revered by locals of the northeastern coast - you can have peerless views of the sea, coconut grove and the jangadas, the typical fishermen´s boats. Ah, by the way, you can go for a nice ride on one of them, I guarantee you´ll enjoy it.

Blissfully unpeopled, pocket size Flexeiras is not for an urbanite. It´s been a while since I´ve known this small village, and was impressed. Hopefully, it has maintained its characteristics, so that you´ll have the feeling of being a traveller instead of a tourist. Hopefully.

New Year´s Eve will strike again soon!

2011-07-23T21:14:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

I can´t believe we are already thinking about New Year´s Eve, but if you are like me, it´s already late. I´ve booked mine months ago - and guess where? Same place than last year´s. Yes, it´s Tibau do Sul alright. And next week I´ll have good news for you about this spot, because I just found out that there´s a new luxurious place for you to try your luck. In the meantime, let´s figure out what can be done from now on. Well, Bahia is always on everybody´s mind, so we´ll begin our list with a very discreet though very upscale Boipeba, not an easy access ( but who cares, once there, it´s paradise!).

As all places out of (easy) reach, this secluded location retains its cachet. And so does the Pousada Mangabeiras ( http://www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br/) where you´ll find the very relaxing way to spend the most sought-after vacation of the year. The pousada is part of reputed Roteiros de Charme, a well-known chain of charming small hotels in Brazil.

With intimacy combined with rustic sophistication in the bungalows, you are deep into the surrounding nature, which is unspoilt and unexplored. And also blissfully unpeopled.

As you are framed by blissfully deserted beaches, the most exquisite torture will be to tan the days away under plentiful of sunshine or submit yourself to sessions of massage and/or acunpuncture, offered in the pousada. For New Year´s Eve, the 6-nights package is still available at rates which range from R$7.910,00 to R$ 9.260 for the Master Bungalow. But, hurry up, as space is limited!

Itaipava Fair :a small shopping enclosure for good deals

2011-07-19T18:29:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

I really feel awfully guilty for not posting more while away from Brazil. But as soon as I´ll be back home, there´s a promise that I will sink into the latest good news for you. In the meantime, let me tell you about a little secret which is known only by the locals who spend time in the mountain region of Itaipava, Araras and neighborhood areas. It´s the Feirinha de Itaipava, which packs around 400 stalls of locally made clothes and accessories. And there´s more...

It´s not a tourist-trap and the attraction lies partly in browsing all of the stalls ( it won´t take a day, just a couple of hours) for good offers, besides getting the experience of shopping in a typically clothing fair. From bags to pets´clothes, you may find excellent children´s trousers, sweatshirts, shorts, dresses, socks, overalls and an infinite list of have-to-buy stuff, like underwear and hats...

The fair is partially outdoors, but on a rainy day will be okay as the stalls are protected. By the way, this fair happens only during the weekend, from 10 till 7 pm and is an ideal year-round program if you are on your way to Itaipava, Três Rios, Araras or Bonsucesso.

Of course, do not expect anything fashionable or fancy, or any well know brand, but the clothes have quality : Itaipava is reputed for its jerseys, which come in handy during winter time, when temperatures fall under 10º C in these places - which is considered frosty by the cariocas´standards. So, if you are not after a famous label on your sweat shirt, consider it a child´s play to look around and find yourself something comfy to watch TV in front of a fireplace.

By the way, you are only a couple of hours from busy Rio, so if your way passes along the BR-40, remember very few places pack as many hidden "gems" into such a small space. It´s an outlet for those who are inclined to spare a couple of bucks...Why not?

Búzios after and before the crowds

2011-06-17T13:52:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Yes, I know, shame on me for not feeding you guys with new stuff regarding Brazil. I haven´t been around much myself, although crossing borders to neighborhoods like Bolivia and Chile might sound familiar. Though picturesque landscapes appeal to me, there´s nothing like going to places off-season, so I take the advantage to escape the crowds whenever - and wherever - there´s an opportunity. So before I begin thinking about the suggestions for you to spend New Year´s Eve in crowded places of Brazil, let me give you a short hint on where to go this winter.

Affordable-chic Búzios is a must-go destination between June and November - but bear in mind to skip the public holidays ( 23rd of June, 7th of September, 12th of October, 2nd and 15th of November) when the crowds do appear out of the blue. Other than those crucial dates, this seaside resort is a magical place, an Aladdin´s cave of quiet - almost deserted - beaches, secret coves and a handful of blissfully unpeopled restaurants to choose from. The location is fabulous, only a couple of hours from Rio, and the road is well maintained.

Pocket-sized enough for you to stroll around biking, hiking or even horseriding, there are some other relaxing ways to enjoy Búzios off-season: plenty of sunshine so you can guarantee a perfect suntan in just a weekend; low rainfall and enviable climate even if elsewhere the sun is not shining...Combine intimacy with grandeur, choosing one of the seaside boutique hotels which have mushroomed during the last few years. And act as a discerning traveller, spending time in a beautiful environment - which is a vital part of any holiday.

Quads in the Pantanal

2011-05-12T05:51:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

I am an adventure buff. Anything that´s off the beaten track appeals to me. But it doesn´t mean that I ´m involving myself in a risky trip. On the contrary. It´s just that as an outdoor enthusiast I believe there are many un-googleable ways to travel.

When my friend Dedeco, who owns a company called Trip Tur, based in southern state of Santa Catarina, told me that he was organizing a quad expedition to the Pantanal ( Brazil´s wet lands located in the middle of the country ) it was like ringing a bell: with the quads, he intends to deposit you in areas which you´d never have access otherwise or by other means of transportation.

Although it´s not exactly a laidback sort of trip – you drive a powerful machine which demands a bit of energy and good physical condition - there´s no reason to groan about it: it allows you to explore the incredibly beautiful terrain of the Pantanal, which harbors eye-filling views and specially wild animals in their habitat.

Think monkeys, blue macaws, deers, birds of all species and crocodiles in their environement…of knee-trembling beauty. The region is blissfully unpeopled, and you´ll be hipnotized by natural gems.

But let´s talk quad: a 4x4 vehicle which can be driven by anyone over 16 years old. It´s so easy to operate that within 15 minutes Dedeco will teach you the basics. Then, follow the guide! It´s more a toy than a vehicle, believe me. I also am positive that it´s the most enchanting way to have the Pantanal revealed to you. And I have been there a couple of times.

There will be a few expeditions from the end of June to beginning of August. As they´ve not done this itinerary before, I can´t provide you with local pictures. But, I can assure you that although the Pantanal is not devoid of tourist gloss, the path taken by quads will certainly be a wander through virgin spots.

The trip includes accomodation, food and guide. And all the guidance that you´ll need. I recommend browsing their site http://www.triptur.com.br/ to get more details and the precise dates of departure. Groups are small – max of 10 participants – and fun is guaranteed! I am looking forward for my turn to come - in the beginning of August.

Goiás Velho, beautifully restored colonial town in Goiás

2011-04-17T19:19:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Did I ever mention that the state of Goiás is one of my favorites but overall also one of the least mentioned. Places like Goiás Velho, a historic town which is an unusual tourist-brochure destination, deserves much more than just the simple tag as a preserved colonial town.

It´s not too far away from capital Goiania, so you can drive safely and easily from the airport right into town in well preserved roads. Then, just park your vehicle and start walking. There´s the usual main praça (place), typical to any old configuration of city planning. Around, there´s some commerce but locals tend to stroll around this strategic location at sunset and on Sundays too, after mass.

Goiás Velho is a laid-back sort of place and the main attraction is the traditional hospitality: as a gesture of welcome, and quoting words from famous local poet Cora Coralina “ Every door remains open, as a habit,” she used to say. And it´s true. Nowadays, this kind of gesture is not only rare but something to be proud of. And heartwarming….

While strolling along cobbled streets, colored façades and old sobrados , charming right to its pavements, I realize that this town is an ideal year-round destination. And you won´t bump into tourist-trap restaurants nor be stalked by wish-to-be-guides or even fooled to pay more for a piece of artcraft in one of the souvenir shops.

But do not miss the opportunity to hire a horse-driven carriage to explore every corner of Goiás Velho, which hide a dashing assemblage of 18th century colonial houses, churches and architecture gems. It´s great for capturing pictures of the inhabitants who usually sit in front of their homes, watching the world go by – with their door wide open, naturally.

Eventually you´ll feel hungry and should try the regional specialty called empadão goiano, which is a pie filled with all sorts of meat, from pork to chicken, as well as sausages and other invigorating seasonal produces. Look for menus featuring this dish – quite easy to bump into.

Local artcrafts featuring religious characters are sold widely around town. These dolls are known as the fogaréus

Also, don´t miss a visit to the Casa de Cora Coralina, across a beautiful bridge. It used to be the poet´s home and is now a museum. To spend the night, although there´s no stylish or boutique hotel around town, try the Pousada do Ipê (http://www.pousadadoipego.com.br/) , well located in the center of town. Rustic and simple, it even has a swimming pool and it´s mentioned in the Guide du Routard, so you can trust it´s worthy.

Maison d´Hôtes, blissfully unpeopled, as if you were in your own house.

2011-04-03T10:11:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

You really don´t have to stay in one of the expensive or tourist-trap hotels in Rio on your next visit. You may not have considered, but there are several other options off-the-beaten track which come in handy when you have no desire to melt your credit card: guest houses and hostels have been popping all over the scenery, offering cozy, intimate and luxurious accomodation within range of the city´s interesting places.

Although this alternative doesn´t come out cheap, it´s still a good choice. Because instead of being a tourist, you might prefer to feel like a local. And in your own house.

Last month I visited the Maison d´Hôtes ( Estrada das Canoas 2600 http://www.tuakasa.com.br/) in the neighborhood of São Conrado – very close to where I lived for most of my life, actually. The location, blissfully unpeopled, seems to be in the middle of nowhere, but even if you are an urbanite, the exciting sites are only ten minutes away by car. By coincidence, this exceptionally charming guesthouse belongs to a friend of mine.

It was starting to pour heavily when I arrived at this spectacular house partly designed by well known brazilian architect Zanine. When Claudio Chagas Freitas met me at the gate, he was as surprised to see me as I was to meet again after more than three decades. Rio is a small town, we cariocas use to say. When you least expect, you bump into someone you´ve known as a teenager!

Well, Claudio used to live in this beautiful three story house with his son Matteo. A few years ago, Matteo came back from Switzerland with a hotelier degree from one of the most prestigious schools. Of course, he had an idea in mind: to transform their home into a guest house.

Needless to say that it took quite a lot of persistence and work to neatly refurbish what is now one of the most stylish hub for a tourist to entice his holiday in Rio.

It´s intimacy in a luxurious setting is combined with incredibly comfortable suites . The hospitality, as if you were staying with pals, is provided by both father and son.

But nothing can prepare you for the awesome views from the terrace over the Pedra da Gávea…It´s even more impressive during a thunderstorm…

Having fun with quads in Urubici, Brazil´s coldest region.

2011-03-05T15:42:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

You´ve probably thought that I´ve lost my compass in Santa Catarina and am still enjoying the blissful Ponta dos Ganchos´resort. Oh, well, I wish! But, although it´s not my purpose to let this blog go blank for so long, I´ve had internet problems which didn´t allow me to connect and post anything for you.

So, here I am, but not far from Florianópolis, Santa Catarina´s capital. Actually, from the sea we continued our trip towards the mountain range of Boqueirão, 174 km southwards. The roads were good, and gradually we felt that the temperature was getting lower by the minute.

Landscapes renowned as “european regions” are common along the way, as German, Swiss and eastern European immigrants came by the thousands before, during and after WW2. They chose the highest peaks of the Serra do Mar to install their homes and business, where the cooler climate and the vegetation reminded them of their hometown. Local gastronomy and architecture are by far the most characteristic of these foreign cultures.

When we reached our destiny, Urubici - where temperatures are known to dive down to minus 17 in winter time- our coats were already out of the suitcase.

We had an adventurous weekend to look forward to, which was driving quads all around the countryside, which is dotted by pine trees, green meadows, scenic canyons, waterfalls and rivers. Remote farmhouses don´t get more rural than those through which we drove past. The most astonishing views were, unfortunately, covered by fog and heavy clouds.

As I said, we were driving 4x4 quads, which can climb or slide down, well, whatever crosses your mind. In fact, we were on a off-road adventure, but nothing to be fearful about: anyone with a bit of common sense and ability can drive those powerful machines.I tried not be haunted by the memory of incidents and took it quite naturally that we were just soaked to the bone when it started to rain seriously. It didn´t spoil our day, but surely spoiled my pictures. So, I won´t have so many to post, but I can guarantee that next quad trip will be during a dry period.

My friends, the owners of quad tour operator Trip Tur ( www.triptur.com.br) are planning great expeditions, day trips and adventures for 2011, so if you are keen to face some challenge, and experience new sensations, you should check what´s the best option for you. No experience needed, only a way to manage a few drops of adrenaline in your mind.

Ponta dos Ganchos : a treat in heaven

2011-02-15T17:59:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

You would need to split your day hourly in 24 and keep a watch on time if you´d have to linger over every little bit of Ponta dos Ganchos. And I am serious: this hotel, tucked high up at the far end of a fisherman village called Ganchos, less than an hour from Florianópolis´airport, is a tiny sample of what paradise should look like. Even more: it´s how you´d probably expect to be treated once in heaven.

Besides being a rich relaxation experience, you´ll feel impossibly pampered from the moment you set foot in this gorgeous setting, surrounded by private luxurious suites which feature… – don´t try to guess, as I´ll tell you soon enough. With a tag of Relais & Chateaux, and a Virtuoso label, nothing is best than the best for the guest.

So, the Ponta dos Ganchos was the place I elected as the best to celebrate, erh, our 32 years of togetherness. It really deserved to be special. But nothing could prepare us for being treated like celebrities in this stylish environment .

The place is, you´ve guessed right, an exclusive retreat, with a dashing assemblage of scenic views – our suite had the most amazing one cascading into the sea, dotted with colored fishermen´s personal nets – high end gastronomy – Chef Laurent Suadeau is one of the consultants - and the best equipped accommodations ever.

We had, in approximately 230sq meters, nothing less than a king size bed, a private sauna, a Jacuzzi, two showers, two bathrooms with l´Occitanne amenities, a terrace with a couch, a small infinite pool (heated, if you´d just turn on the button) and lounging chairs. We were surrounded by dozens of towels, robes, a nespresso machine, a mini bar free of charge for non-alcoholic beverages plus snacks, a fireplace (the State of Santa Catarina can easily offer alpine temperatures in winter months) a comfy couch to watch movies or tv on a 50” flat screen… everything spread around strategically, not to mention the bottle of Imperial Brut in a bucket full of ice, offered on our arrival.

To stroll around the resort, we either walked the pathways or called the golf cart to pick us up. It happened twice as summer storms caught us by surprise right after lunch on one day and right before the siesta on the small private beach, the next afternoon. Yet barely a stone´s throw from our bungalow, someone quickly appeared to rescue us back to number 23 of the new wing of luxurious accommodations.

We sure missed a couple of sunset, unfortunately. Dark clouds didn´t seem to leave the area, and although we had a glimpse of white sand while chasing some beams of sun on the following morning, the weather wasn´t terrific. But, as you may conclude, the Ponta dos Ganchos isn´t the sort of hotel where you get bored if you are “ stuck” in your room. And also, there´s a Dior Spa to invigorate your spirit on a rainy afternoon. Massages, treatments…Oh, well, I know, tell me, it´s tiring to live like royalty.

But I could easily get used - or should I say addicted? - to it. Needless to say that we did manage to combine several activities with this romantic escapade. A nice guided walk to a nearby deserted beach, a boat ride on an authentic fisherman´s boat to explore the region and observe the oysters and clam´s local breeding, as well as kayaking, all organized within the premises.

Check this out: miniature benedict egg for breakfast, followed, combined or along with a choice of nine other little dishes among bread, hot and cold sandwiches, yogurts...Sophistication and presentation are present in every meal, besides surprising guests by "engraving" their names with chocolate on the coffee. Causing emotion is a key factor in the immaculate service.

Maybe in the near future the Ponta dos Ganchos will be the destination on everybody´s lips – though I would prefer to keep this gem to myself – but right now it´s an ideal and year-round serene destination, a stylish paradise with perfect service, known to those people who have the talent to concoct all these ingredients of hospitality with the art of choosing well.

Ponta dos Ganchos
http://www.pontadosganchos.com.br/
tel. 48 3262 5000

Le Relais de Marambaia : a room with a view – the best in Rio – far from the madding crowd!

2011-02-01T10:23:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

Few places in Rio reveal such a magnificent view as the one from Le Relais de Marambaia´s five exclusive suites. The caveat is its location, tucked-away in Pedra de Guaratiba, a neighborhood which is only 20-some kilometers away from Leblon, but quite a burden to reach if you are caught in heavy traffic jam. The area nearby is also home to the famous gardens of Roberto Burle Marx. So get ready to enjoy more than an overnight stay.

But, if you are smart, schedule your departure (from any place in town) before three o´clock in the afternoon, so you´ll get there earlier than I did and nothing can prepare you for the stunning sunset which can be admired from the swimming pool as well as from the terrace of your comfortable suite.

I was itching to get there and planned an escape in the middle of the week, in order to enjoy this sun + relaxation program with my husband. Although we missed the best part, we could still relax with a couple of caipirinhas in our hand. The nice kiwi and passion fruit drinks were delicious and therefore we could recover our energy and consider tasting a menu featuring seasonal produce – shrimp, fish, crab…

An ideal year-round destination, the Relais de Marambaia is one of the many guesthouses which opened in Rio lately. It belongs to a French citizen and is run by his charming niece, Alexandra, who cares for every detail in the house, which is as stylish as a boutique hotel can be – king sized beds with white linen and fluffy robes, Occitane ammenities, wide TV screens, DVD´s, Perrier bottles in the mini bar and walk in showers for two. Some even have a jacuzzi. She also looks after her guests as if they were old-time friends.

A recent makeover turned le Relais into a refuge for couples in search of a romantic overnight stay, as well as foreign tourists who want to run away from Rio´s madding crowd. You do, indeed, have the best view from every angle of the guesthouse, as there is a 60 kilometers´stretch of sand splashed right in front, known as the Restinga de Marambaia. Unfortunately, it´s inaccessible to anyone except the military, reason for this area to remain immaculate and untouched. You may swim right there and nearby, but you can´t set foot on the beach.

But ( and a big BUT) Alexandra invites her guests to explore similar (and hidden) gems like this one, deserted beaches which are nestled around the area. Simply board one of the fishermen´s boats, which can be hired right in loco, and go for a little ride. These beaches are only reached by sea or hiking. So, for sure, you´ll feel like Robinson Crusoe…

Le Relais de Marambaia

Estrada Roberto Burle Marx 9346

www.lerelaisdemarambaia.com.br

tel. 5521 23942544

Tibau do Sul, a place to call your own

2011-01-16T15:22:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

As I told you before New Year´s Eve, I was going to hide myself in one of those special hubs of the northeast, a place called Tibau do Sul.
Since the last decade, I´ve been coming to this hidden gem where you are bound to find deserted beaches even during high season and holidays.

Considering that I wanted to break my city-style routine, Tibau do Sul has a clutch of luxurious attributes, such as no routine, to begin with. And no internet around, too.
Next, you become an early bird even if this doesn´t appetize you. The breeze crossing leisurely across the coconut leaves sounds like a wake up call - and music along the day.

Breakfast with an overview – the sea, the skyline of sandy beaches in the horizon, the blue sea, the mood of the tide…Then a stroll in the village, with a shopping list – what are we having for lunch??? Check with the fisherman´s stock, right across the bakery.

When the tide starts to get lower, natural small swimming pools form all along the shore. The water is translucid. You just have to dip in it, with a book in your hand, tons of sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and soak in the warmth of the rays.

If you´re the sportive kind of guy, then get ready to surf among dolphins in the Praia do Madeiro, test your skills with a paddle on stand-up boards on the lagoon, go for a horseriding adventure on the beach, challenge your fear by being a passenger on a parapente experience – the professional who will be piloting is an expert, so don’t worry….Or just hire a buggy and explore the surrounding beaches, either by going north or south on the dunes and sand. No toll road in these itineraries.

And as far as food is concerned, you shall spoil yourself rotten on fresh produce from the sea, plus coconut water, capirinhas, cold beer and fusion food in many restaurants of nearby Pipa. This fishermen´s village was once what Tibau used to be, but lost its tranquility to fancy hotels, fashionable tourism and rock´n roll.

On the other hand, expect to eat well and choose from Thai to tapas, including French, Italian, Peruvian, and, naturally, regional potiguar (originally from Rio do Grande do Norte state) specialities.

But if you´re too lazy to turn on the engine of the car and drive 6 kilometers, then you can still relish on the fresh oysters which can be ordered in some of the unsophisticated restaurants of Tibau. Or typical dishes such as bobó de camarão ( a recipe blending shrimps, coconut milk, turnip and fresh herbs), washed down with a chope – beer from the tap.

Then, as you are in the northeast, there are hammocks in every corner of the house, including on the terrace, in which you feel obliged to take a nap every afternoon, after (late) lunch.

The taste of caipifrutas, a national drink

2011-01-10T11:18:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

I am pretty sure that anyone who sets foot in Brazil is immediately aware that there is a certain drink that cannot be ignored once in the country – anywhere. And this is about ridiculously delicious caipirinhas, or for those more experienced, the caipifrutas, which blend in with every single fresh fruit you may imagine. Those drinks are manipulated following the barman´s wits, and are also decorated, so you appreciate it with your eyes. And easily fall in love at first sight.

The word caipi will sound familiar as soon as you enter a bar, be it on the sidewalk of the beach or any restaurant. Caipirinha will then become familiar in a split second, and from this point you´ll become addicted. The mix between lemon, sugar, ice and either cachaça ( the alcoholic beverage made from sugar cane) or vodka will remain forever in you palate and also in your vocabulary, even if caipirinha is the only word which you´ll memorize.

Any fresh fruit, tropical or not, can represent the main ingredient for this amazing drink, like kiwi, cashew, grapes, lichia ( absolutely divine!), strawberries, lime, passion fruit, pineapple, and many others. Moreover, imagination is the limit, so you can even invent some fusions, like the perfect combination of lemon with passion fruit, and also add ginger, for instance. Let´s say, whatever crosses your mind, just give it a try.

Also, this recipe is no secret. Many restaurants around the world, as in Paris or even small Californian town like Laguna Beach has somehow adopted it. The making-off is so simple that anyone can give it a try at home. And amaze your friends with a little Brazilian touch during a happy hour!

New Year´s Eve resolutions

2010-12-25T13:34:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

As I told you a while before, I´m off to one of the most amazing spots in the northeastern shore of Brazil - Tibau do Sul, in the state of Rio Grande do Norte.
There will be dolphins swimming by my side, dunes and miles of sandy beaches to stroll on, coconut water galore and peace.
And NO internet.
So, I apologise for those who will feel a bit postless for a few days, but it´s only a matter of days, really, while I´m spending New Year´s Eve in one of my favorite places. And as you can´t have it all, not being connected is the only caveat.
The good news is that everything that´s new will be transmitted to you as soon as I come back.
Have a happy New Year and try to make as many resolutions as you can.
Mine are: to travel more in 2011 and keep you posted even more next year!

Horseriding holidays in the south region: a must for horse fans.

2010-12-21T16:59:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

If there´s a region in Brazil which can be defined as ideal for horseriding, it´s certainly the south. Thanks to its topography, and the endless grassy highlands, allied with a fascinating landscape, the serra gaúcha – the gaúcho mountain chain – in the state of Rio Grande do Sul is a world away from any other ladnscape you´ve ever seen.

I´ve been a couple of times to S. Francisco de Paula, Cambará and the surroundings of these typical locations, where you can ride for miles without seeing another human being. Also, there´s a very calm and sturdy breed of horse called the “crioulo”, bred and raised in the South and extremely adapted to Brazilian soil.

The pretty setting is only another attribute, but after galloping on the rolling hills of the Aparados da Serra, any horse lover will not want to ride anywhere else than across those green and fenceless fields, crossing natural obstacle like rivers and canyons, sitting around a bondfire at the end of the day, sipping “chimarrão”, the non-alcooholic local beverage made from the leaf of erva mate, very popular in this part of Brazil.

The character behind the reins is a (special) gaúcho named Paulo Hafner www.campofora.com.br , and the mentor of these fabulous horseriding holidays, something he introduced almost two decades ago. On the program, he´s offering all sorts of experiences, so you can choose between a few days on the saddle, with overnight stays in typical colono´s houses, where you´ll enjoy the hospitality of the gaúchos and their culinary specialities. Or, for those who are looking for something a little more comfy and luxurious, there´s also an option where you can spend the nights in a hotel, but then the atmosphere will be less personal.

I do prefer to meet the locals , taste their homey cuisine and sit by the fireplace in their kitchen, doing small talk with the family of owners. I should add that the south is an entirely different Brazil altogether, and the atmosphere is very distinct from the southeast or the northeast, to say the least!

A pit-stop to admire a waterfall in the region of the Aparados da Serra.

Best of all is that those riding expeditions can be scheduled all year-round, with higher temperatures in the summer but with freezing ones in winter. Both periods are nice, with different highlights due to weather conditions and itineraries. Do check Paulo´s website to have an idea of the incredible journeys offered on horseback. Something to think about when you are longing for something out-of-the-beaten-trail.

Diamantina, land of Chica da Silva, Juscelino Kubitschek and..diamonds

2010-12-13T10:22:00.001-08:00

by Antonella Kann

I am a passionate about colonial towns and there are quite a few in Brazil. Most of them in the State of Minas Gerais.

Diamantina, one of the most genuine, is not the most sought-after, as far as a massive tourist hub , although it boasts history in every corner. Maybe because it´s not at easy reach like many other towns. You have to drive for 300 kilometers from capital Belo Horizonte towards Brasília on the BR-040 to get to the birth place of ex-president Juscelino Kubitschek.

But Diamantina is also known as the venue of famous slave-turned-into-mistress Chica da Silva during the diamond fever in the 18th century. The African lady became a despotic “first lady” after seducing the Portuguese governor , during a period when Diamantina ( which owes its name to the portuguese word “diamante” - diamond) was sought after for its precious metal, abundantly found in its riverbeds.

Besides cobbled streets and authentic façades, you can enjoy the great outdoors all year-round, as the region is surrounded by impressive waterfalls and panoramic hikes.
Once in town, do not miss the municipal market, which retains a nostalgic feel and where you´ll find all sorts of home-made food, artcrafts from the Vale do Jequitinhonha , local cachaça and, naturally, semi-precious stones – also found in several little shops spread around the narrow alleys and old city center.

But Diamantina is also known as the venue of famous slave-turned-into-mistress Chica da Silva during the diamond fever in the 18th century. The so-called beauty became a despotic “first lady” after seducing the Portuguese governor and "ruling" as his mistress , during a period when Diamantina ( which owes its name to the portuguese word “diamante” - diamond) was sought after for its precious metal, abundantly found in its riverbeds.

In Sanpa, as a carioca.

2010-12-08T14:55:00.000-08:00

the view from the breakfast room on the 15th floor of Sheraton WTC

by Antonella Kann

Even though I´ve been visiting São Paulo since I was a little girl, this huge and buzzling metropolis always leaves me in a state of confusion. I wouldn´t take the wheel for the sake of my dear life, for instance…
Anyhow, I do come quite often for dear friends and work - both are meaningful in this palpitating city. This time, it was for the launching ( or re-launching) of my travel photography book “Flashes of the World”, an event which was kindly sponsored by Sheraton WTC hotel ( http://www.sheraton.com/ ) and italian restaurant Mercatto Caffé.
You may have different opinions and say whatever you want about the "looks" of São Paulo – not a feather of beauty compared to Rio – but I insist to say that in the matter of service and quality, everything is grand.

It has a level of sophistication which pairs nowhere else in Brazil, with very few exceptions. My design suite, for instance, is one of the 67 exclusive rooms which bears the signature of a renowned interior designer and/or architect. This is an inovator project of personalizing a few floors of a five star hotel in order to make you feel more at home, let´s say. Well, I had a king size bed with fluffy pillows galore, comfy robe and wide LED screen with many channels in several languages. I almost lost my appointment watching a French thriller … And there were plenty of Granado´s ammenities in the bathroom, even a body scrub sponge.

São Paulo is indeed the richest town in this country and you can fulfill almost everything in your wishlist. From expensive cars to designers´clothes and furniture for your house. By the way, the Sheraton is right inside one of the most sophisticated shopping center called D& D, dedicated to design and decoration. You just walk out of your room and stroll up and down three floors of fantastic high end stores…Think fabrics, wall paper, tapestry….

And you eat well in Sanpa. Really well. Our venue, well located the Mercatto Caffé (Helio Pellegrino, 198, in Vila Nova Conceição) is an italian restaurant with good pasta, honestly cooked al dente, and reasonable prices. The atmosphere is very relaxed. You don´t even need to be launching a book – just enjoy the focaccia and draft beer at one of the al fresco tables on the terrace.

Rio for tourists...

2010-11-28T16:19:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

Yes, indeed, Rio is one of the most stunning places on earth. A haven which has not yet been discovered by tourism, comparing with other places in the world. I daresay that the negative propaganda which spreads all over could be the reason for Brazil to have such a low number of visitors.
I realize that I am saying this in a very delicate moment, as you have been witnessing our momentaneous and vulnerable situation through international networks and newspapers.
Although the situation is still uncertain, I am not the least frightened. Nor were the hundred and some passengers in the flight which brought me home three days ago. Concerned, certainly, as I was, but so happy to be back to this luminous town, admire the beach and the sea, the tropical colors of summer, feel the heat in my bones.
Unfortunately, you usually hear the bad side of the story when it comes to Rio de Janeiro. And, unfortunately, this doesn´t help to bring tourists to this city or even to this country.
If you imagine that we have only 5,4 millions visitors per year, compared to France, which receives almost 60 million people...
For the last three days, my focus has been on Rio and how the police will detangle the situation.
We, the cariocas, are optimistic and willing to believe that soon we will be proud to offer our guests a refurbished town, where the word safety will be a reality.

Where are you going for New Year´s Eve ( part III) ?

2010-11-16T14:40:00.000-08:00

by Antonella Kann

Still not ready to decide your whereabouts for the last evening of the year? I would guess that by now, at least half of the readers know where they want to do on December 31st, one third doesn´t have a clue and the rest, well….is still thinking.

So I just want to help those who haven´t made up their mind. Good luck! Notice that this time we are far away from the beaches!

Located in the state of Minas Gerais, at 1900 meters above sea level, Do Lado de Lá is the highest pousada in Brazil. And a haven for nature lovers. But don´t expect luxury or pampering: there´ll be neither in-room massage nor personal 24hrs butler in this rustic pousada.

You feel like you are on top of the world, surrounded by the Atlantic forest, waterfalls and vegetation. And that´s all the luxurious atmosphere of the Serra do Papagaio, in Aiuruoca, a region located almost 270 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro. Even the name of the place is hard to pronounce - and even harder to remember.

With such a conspicuous name, which means On the Other Side www.doladodela.com.br has less than 10 accommodations and those range from standard rooms with shared bathroom up to bungalows with private Jacuzzi. As you have probably guessed, it’s an all-inclusive establishment (there´s nowhere else to eat, anyway!), with honest and simple home-made food cooked in the old fashioned way – on the woodstove.

A destination like Pirenópolis don´t come much more original than that. It´s not exactly in the middle of nowhere, but sure is off the beaten track as a New Year´s hub. But it´s a very attractive colonial town located in the state of Goiás. It´s tiny, genuine, and has small but comfortable pousadas and surprisingly good restaurants.

You can also amuse yourself by digging into antiques shops offering furniture and delicious old bric-à-brac. And, of course, there are the traditional small stores selling all sorts of regional artifacts. But strolling around the town is likely to find locations to captivate the eye.

the cachoeira do Abade, a few miles from the center of Pirenopolis

The local cachaça also is a must-try experience. There are more than a hundred labels waiting for you in several small bars. And, as you´re likely to be using your feet instead of your car ( which should definitely be left in the parking lot of your pousada!) feel free to go wild! But do drive to the nearby sites for amazing hikes and god refreshing plunges in waterfalls. Oh, sorry, I almost forgot: try the pousada O Casarão ( www.ocasarao.pirenopolis.tur.br tel. 62 3331 2662)

A hike in the esoteric national park of the Chapada dos Veadeiros

2010-11-09T14:11:00.001-08:00

by Antonella Kann

The Chapada dos Veadeiros is one of those places where you can go several times and still feel as if you were in a brand new surrounding. Only 236 kilometers from capital Brasilia, this National Park has the most amazing hiking trails and waterfalls, framed by high peaks and stunning views.

The climate in the park differs a lot from Brasília. It´s more humid, the temperature is always agreeable and it´s sunny most of the year. In winter, you can get really cold. But now, during summer months, it´s hot during the day and cooler at night.

Long trails in the bush, amidst nature and wildlife...

It´s a haven for hikers and trekkers, but remember to be prepared for long walks, so water and sun screen are a must.

And I must warn you about a local inhabitant, the tiny bees, harmless but a nuisance, so a good idea is to have some kind of refreshing towel in your backpack to wipe the sweat off your face and body. It will help to keep them away. And make sure you are the first one to jump into the water when you reach the waterfalls.

To be precise, it´s home to 160 waterfalls, for which you´d need at least five days to really explore, plus get acquainted with the region and enjoy all of its natural wonders.

The most enigmatic sites are the Vale da Lua ( Valley of the Moon), with an incredible rock formation, Águas Quentes ( Warm Waters), which are warm natural pools for you to soak into, plus Janela and Abismo, locations from where you can have a panoramic view of the park, several canyons and other extraordinary secluded spots to have fun, swim, sunbathe and relax.

the view from the "janela", a reward to be reached after 3hrs hike

For esoteric fans, the whole region of the Chapada is known for its crystals and magnetic fields, so the locals assume that there is extraterrestrial power in every corner.
But besides the fact that you might have close encounters with another kind, the Chapada is well equipped with charming pousadas and restaurants where you´ll be served delicious meals.

the pousada Baguá:private luxurious bungalows and jacuzzi

The small town to go is called São Jorge, right at the entrance of the Park, and I´d recommend the Pousada Baguá (www.pousadabagua.com.br) for the best accommodations.

Flexeiras, new kid on the Ceará block !

2010-10-30T09:29:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

The year´s not yet over and I´m already planning Easter. That´s what travel addicts do. It suddenly occured to me that I could use this opportunity when my daughter said she had a wedding to attend in Jericoacoara, in the state of Ceará. So, that´s where I wanna go.

As you are already familiar with some places in this state, as well as its golden dunes, my focus is on somewhere else, nearby, but a little further down the coast.

It´s a small fishermen´s village only 120 km (an hour away) north from capital Fortaleza, and its name is Flexeiras. A couple of years ago I´ve been there on my way to Jeri, and found the place stunning.

In 2011, Easter falls on the end of April, when the weather is warm, sunny and the place tourist free. It will be heaven.

Best part is that I discovered, accidentally, that a brand new five star resort has just opened there. Just by browsing the site, I realized that this hotel (which belongs to the Roteiro de Charme chain, which is our brand of luxury and comfort at its top) is one of a kind. Of course, the pretty setting helps, but suites with private jacuzzi also have their share to contribute for a... errh, phenomenal stay. I sure am looking forward to...

The name is Orixas Art Hotel (www.orixashotel.com.br) . Check it out yourself and tell me if it doesn´t give you the itch to go there…tomorrow. And if you do, before me, just post a comment so that I know beforehand what to expect! I´d rely on your opinions, for sure.

A taste of honey: Ilha do Mel , a sweet island.

2010-10-25T15:50:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

I had heard about the Ilha do Mel a long time ago. Sort of place you tell yourself “one day I shall go”. But it took me ages. Finally, by mid September, there came the opportunity.

Located in the southern State of Paraná, this tiny island is the sort of haven to visit off peak, as in high season its golden beaches are overcrowded by tourists from nearby capital, Curitiba.

Before booking our pousada Grajagan Surf Resort (www.grajagan.com.br) - I browsed the net to search for the more starred accommodations. Unfortunately, there were none to be found.

Note that although I love being pampered, I am not the kind of person to sulk about the rusticity of a hotel or complain easily about whatever caveats there might be found in a room, but I knew that this destination had been definitely launched by hippies and surfers, a brand of visitors whose interpretation of comfort or luxury do not go beyond peaceful sights and perfect waves – respectively.

As we headed in the taxiboat to cross from the continent to the island, the weather turned grey and rainy. I had checked and was aware that we might run into a cold weekend and this worried me. There would be nothing to do if the temperature dropped even a couple of digits. September is not a warm month in the south of Brazil.

If you have a penchant for natural environment and preserved hippie era atmosphere, the Ilha do Mel has it all. The whole island is car free, with sandy streets, scattered villages with fishermen´s houses and a handful of simple inns and lodges, art crafts sold in tourist shops near the harbors.

Lucky us, next morning the sun made its appearance against all predictions. So, after a hearty breakfast we planned our day: a long walk around part of the island, exploring a couple of well known touristic sites like the Encantada´s Cavern. Along the way, extensive stretches of white sandy beaches.

I would call the Ilha do Mel a refuge for those seeking an escape from civilization, but not a place to be in summer or during holiday period. Nature lovers will not want to share the island with hundreds of visitors. If ever there´s a time to go, choose March through November.

A world away from hip seaside resorts and other trendy beach temples, the “honey island” also attracts surfers in search of good waves year-round.

Although we had fun, I left the island with a sweet and sour aftertaste. In order to attract another type of visitors – and more investments - local authorities should reinvent the facilities and give the accommodations as well as the restaurants a makeover.

Caraívas, the melting pot of the south of Bahia.

2010-10-14T05:04:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

The first time I heard about this fishermen´s village was in 1995. It was the right place to go if you were the hippie-minded traveler. Whatever was left from the Aquarius era was still there.

But I wasn´t the hippie type anymore, did care about a good shower after spending a whole day on the beach, didn´t want to sleep surrounded by mosquitoes and had an issue about mobile connections. So I just acknowledged its existence.

It took me another decade to get personally acquainted with Caraívas.

By then, the small community, with simple houses, only 40 kms away from trendy Trancoso , still had no electricity, mobiles didn´t work, and the few rustic pousadas did not offer private bathroom or hot water. And, of course, none of the tourist business was there to make your stay more comfy. Nevertheless, you would have a remarkable and intimate relationship with the natives and connect with their way-of-life very easily.

Now, oh, well…Caraívas became fashionable, though. Mobile phones still remain disconnected but there´s electricity power. And now it´s really cool to say that you´re going there instead of spending a fortune in the neighboring high end beach of Praia do Espelho or even Trancoso.

But the village hasn´t changed much, due to its geographical attributes: it´s a river apart from the main dust road, so, naturally, it´s car free. Or almost, as you´ve got the buggies to move around as a mean of way of transportation. Or do as the locals, use the donkeys ( just kidding…).

Though it´s more than fun to go for a ride on this 4-wheeled-kind-of-jeep, very much in use in the northeast as it can easily stroll through thick sandy roads, dunes and the beaches.

Sandy alleys melt into the sandy beach as there´s no road or pavement in Caraívas. The village is framed by the sea and the river, and fishermen carry on their chores as in the past. The tourists come in flocks, some even carrying their own pillows and sleeping bags, and everyone crosses from one border to another by hand driven canoes, provided by the locals. You´ll pay a (negotiable) fee for each person, one way. I remember last time it was a mere R$ 2. On the other side, everyone walks to his pousada – which, fortunately, have been revamped. You do find cozy accommodations with a touch of amenities such as the Pousada Vila do Mar (www.pousadaviladomar.com.br ) Rest assure : it´s not a five-star, but you´ll be comfy enough. And, guess what – you are spending most of your time lying down on the beach, sipping coconut water.

I´ll introduce these last lines from now on, in every post. Hope you´ll take full advantage of these Insiders´tips:
Do´s : take only one duffel, pack as light as you can, because you´ll be wearing nothing else than shorts, swimming suits and t-shirts. As for walking on sand all the time, no other shoes than brazilian flip-flops, please! ( and don´t forget your sunscreen…)
Don´t: Carnival ( March 3-13th 2011) is the busiest and noisiest time ever. Not a jolly season to pick up for those looking forward to a relaxing holiday.

Another of Bahia´s idyllic fragment:Praia do Forte

2010-10-10T15:43:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

It´s no secret that Bahia´s coastline is dotted with the most dreamy stretches of sandy beaches, but no doubt very few places are as enchanting as Praia do Forte, located around 50 kms north of Salvador´s airport. My first visit to this seaside resort was more than 20 years ago, long before it became a tourist´s hot spot, and since then I would go back countless times.

It´s also one of the few places on earth from where I don´t want to leave. Unfortunately, it´s been a couple of years since I ´ve scheduled a weekend there, but I made up my mind to mend this very soon, be assured. It´s less than two hours´ flight from Rio or São Paulo.

A quarter of a century ago, Praia do Forte was a tiny fishermen´s village and off the beaten track. Until it became the birthplace of Projeto Tamar, an ecological plan meant to protect the sea turtles which come ashore to lay their eggs. This project has gathered several international awards for preserving the environment.

So, fortunately, this village reinvented itself as a hub attracting ecotourists as well as those who are looking for an escape with a twist – Praia do Forte´s small hip village is car free, full of cozy boutiques and small shops, bars and fine restaurants serving from hearty Brazilian dishes to international cuisine, and its pousadas have been given a makeover.

Besides, there are dreamy beaches bathed by dozens of natural pools which emerge when the tide is low. Nature lovers will not want to move from the pretty setting – there´s a very interesting visitors´ center where all kind of sea turtles can be seen before being released into the ocean - and there´s lots to do in the area – from shopping to long walks, horseriding, snorkeling, surfing and mountain bike.

Anytime is good. And if there´s a time to go, just go. Chances are you won´t want to leave this place. Just like me.

the natural pools of Praia do Forte: warm and calm waters

New Year´s Eve getting closer...have you made up your mind yet? (part II)

2010-10-02T15:27:00.001-07:00

I promised I would be back with more places for you to spend the last day of the year. So here are some ideas, but not the least of the last. There will be some more to appear, let´s say, near the deadline, and when you´ll think every mortal soul will already have a booking, some last minute baits will pop out of the blue and….that´s where you´ll catch the best deals.

But for the time being, here are some places near Rio where you could consider spending New Year´s Eve. Once in your life you should contemplate the idea of watching the fireworks from Copacabana beach, though you´ll be sharing it with, errr…one million people. But ( and it´s a big BUT) you can also try to find a room at the Copacabana Palace, the iconic hotel facing the sea. Give it a click, www.copacabanapalace.com.br - you never know….

On the other hand, why not run away from crowds, and the heat altogether? Just a mere 120 kms uphill and you´ll reach the bijou hideaways of the mountainous Vale das Videiras and the Vale do Cuiabá. Two luxurious (almost secretive) retreats deserve your attention and will pamper each guest with gastronomic treats. The silence, the cool temperatures, the unpolluted and stunning scenery come for free. Try www.videiras.com.br and www.tankamana.com.br My bet is that they might still offer interesting packages for this time of year.

the Pousada Tankamana (top) and the Fazenda Vale das Videiras

Búzios, 190 kms from Rio, is not an off-the-beaten track destination, and certainly not an option for party poopers as with plenty of pousadas, restaurants and bars, New Year´s Eve is as sizzling as it gets. And you will easily find a way to have the time of your life. Consider the threat of melting your credit card, but there are occasions when it can be worth it. And the beaches are certainly the best venues for you to dip your right foot into the sea by the first minute of 2011.

To bring nature along isolation and perhaps less agitation, I also thought about Ilha Grande, a fragment of paradise, just about a 100kms from downtown. But there´s a caveat: traffic is strangled from the beginning of the BR-101 and unless you consider driving a day or two before the 31st of December, be prepared to spend hours bumper to bumper on the road. And on the way back too. Mangaratiba is your final port, from where the ferry crosses to this big island. In the Vila do Abraão, there are several small rustic pousadas. And it´s car free, so my hint is that you could hike every day to a different amazing beach.

And what if you want to discover a land absurdly rich in history, continue on this very road until you reach Paraty. Nestled between the sea and the glamorous Mata Atlantica, this gorgeous little colonial town is a must-see. Though you may probably have a wet New Year´s Eve, the cobbled-stoned pavements, the narrow alleys, the 18th century houses and churches, altogether with the inherent charm of Paraty, will get you under its spell. And if you want to splurge, take note of the Casa Turquesa, certainly one of the finest pousadas you´ll ever set foot in. www.casaturquesa.com.br It´s the place to be when you´ll want to get away from the street parties.

New Year´s Eve is on your doorstep…where are you going?

2010-09-27T00:03:00.000-07:00

Fazenda da Lagoa´s swimming pool

by Antonella Kann

Have you already made plans for Christmas and New Year´s Eve? Ever considered spending a couple of weeks in Brazil, for a change? Well, I can tell you the good news and the bad news.

The bad ones is that this time of year the rates of whatever you may think about are at least twice the price they used to be. I mean from hotel rooms to car rental or a simple beer on the beach.

The good news is that this is the right time, just the right time, for you to find searching for a place which suits both your taste and budget. And still find it memorable. Just look at the room right in front of you...I have been receiving a few emails from a couple of resorts and pousadas, offering affordable packages for the end of 2010.

the beach at Corumbau, right in front of the pousada

As it will not fall other than on weekends, not many people will be able to take two whole weeks of vacation without calling them “vacation time”. What I mean is, if X-Mas or New Year´s would have fallen on a, let´s say, Wednesday, every excuse would do for you to forget there were Thursday, Friday, Monday and Tuesday from at least one week.

This is the Fazenda São Francisco de Corumbau, it can´t get any better...

I can´t do the homework for you, since there´s no clue whether you´d prefer beach or mountain, silence or parties. What I can do write down some of my favorite hubs and particular spots where these dates can be enjoyed. Most of them are on this blog, so you can always go back a few clicks and find more details about them.

This week I will begin with very popular places by the sea, as well as resorts and pousadas which are – unfortunately – high rated, top of the list, and therefore may not even have availability anymore. Of course, you never know until you pick up the phone and speak to the manager. That´s what I do when I REALLY want to be there on a certain date. There´s always someone who cancels, right?

The Quadrado in Trancoso, the famous "square"

Let´s begin with peace and calm in the south of Bahia: near Ilhéus, try the Fazenda da Lagoa http://www.fazendadalagoa.com.br/ and in Corumbau, near Porto Seguro, the pousada to go is Fazenda de São Francisco http://www.corumbau.com.br/ It´s absolutely tourist-free and the beaches are yours. Of course, luxury and privacy never come for free.

pousada Etnia, a quiet place after the fireworks

For those wishing to spend every night out and watch the sunrise, Trancoso, also near Porto Seguro, is the perfect haven. Though I would rather sleep a bit outside the Quadrado, because at some point you´ll definitely need to shut your eyes. My choice would be the charming and comfortable Pousada Etnia. http://www.etniabrasil.com.br/

Fernando de Noronha at sunset: the most beautiful show

Going up northeast, Fernando de Noronha is everyone´s dream island, although be prepared to spend a small fortune. If you can, it´s worth it. Nothing compares to its beaches and there´s a limit of less than 500 tourists a day. So, basically, you´re on your own. The always-will-always-was Pousada Zé Maria is a fair choice, not cheaper, but adequate. http://www.pousadazemaria.com.br/ Reservation for this time of year is – to say the least ! – complicated. Worth trying, though.

Warm waters, beautiful scenery, almost on your own...That´s what an island is for.

Beautiful stretches of sand, long hikes on the beach.

The most famous "post card" from Fernando de Noronha

kite surfing is one of the many outdoor activities in Jeri

Again for party lovers, Jericoacoara, also up north in the state of Ceará, is fantastic. There´s plenty of activities and restaurants, and kite surfing, and long hikes. You can bet there´s still room available in the beachfront pousada Vila Kalango http://www.vilakalango.com.br/

The charming village of Jeri has many restaurants, bars and a nightlife for those seeking parties.

the Vila Kalango hotel, right on the beach

While you try to make up your mind, I will sort out some off-the-beaten path destinations where there might be a chance for you to find rest and peace or fireworks and music. In the meantime, let me know if your browsing was successful.

Instituto Moreira Salles, a cultural space a stone´s throw from Gávea´s busy neighborhood.

2010-09-16T10:57:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

I realize that I should be writing more often about Rio, but as I focus on the city in the Portuguese version of the blog, it slips away among many other destinations. I do apologise for not mentioning it more often in English and promise I´ll make up for it. So, this one is specially for readers who have an inclination for photography.

It´s been some time since I had last visited the Instituto Moreira Salles, a charming cultural haven nestled in the midst of Gávea´s neighborhood. I was there for lunch with some friends at the cozy Café Galeria, their small restaurant where they serve delicious salads, quiches , pastries and pasta dishes. The menu is not very sophisticated, but the options are tasty.

There´s always something going on inside this imponent modern building, which was designed in 1940 and for several years served both as the residence of the respectable Moreira Salles family as well as the meeting point for important political and social events during the last decades of the 20th century. All this before being transformed into a low profile (but sophisticated) cultural hub.

Since 1999 until nowadays, following some refurbishments, the IMS became "the place to go" for any out-of-the-beaten-path exhibit, a cultural centre in general and a permanent reference for photography shows. You´ll find two spacious venues and the most incredible collection of images from Brazil, but most of all, from Rio de Janeiro.

Works by Marc Ferrez, Marcel Gautherot and José Medeiros are some of the photographers who have their works preserved and often exhibited for the public. Special techniques have allowed the IMS´ specialists to perform amazing restorations on many endangered historic images.

On the other hand, if you are a movie fan, you can splurge into the weekly selection of the IMS´ films. There´s a small theater/cinema where they regularly come up with those unforgettable titles – think the “Noir” series, b&w classics, and even more recent hits, like Scarface …remember???

Ok, let´s say movies are not your cuppa tea, so try browsing the library with hundreds of titles regarding photography and the life of photographers, Brazilian History and even stationary gadgets and ceramics. So you can even do some cultural shopping and go home with an original gift.

But you can also just step in to stroll around, have a glance at the latest exhibition, and spent the rest of the afternoon sitting on the terrace, by the pool, sipping a coffee and reading a book. The IMS has a green area surrounded by great views of the Pedra da Gávea , where you´ll feel secluded and really out of reach.

Instituto Moreira Salles
Rua Marquês de São Vicente 476
Gávea
Tel. 21 3284 7400
www.ims.com.br
opens from Tuesday to Friday from 13h to 20h and Saturdays , Sundays and holidays from 11h to 20h. Free entrance.

Pipa & Tibau do Sul for the sun and simple life!

2010-09-06T17:06:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

This year´s New Year´s Eve is certainly not to be cheered: it´s just a simple weekend, so if you fancied a looooooong one, call this a Saturday and Sunday, with (maybe) a twist on Friday after lunch. That will, naturally, make you avoid thinking about making plans for a faraway destination. And you will now think it´s much too early to worry and, even if you would be the most creative person living on this planet, there wouldn´t be enough creativity to stretch the days – no matter how long they are in summer.

All this to tell you about one of the few places that deserves a handful of sacrifices and time consuming, even if it means spending ONLY a weekend. To tell the truth, I would rather conceal the existence of Pipa and Tibau do Sul, two small villages nestled in the northeastern state of Rio Grande do Norte, not far from capital Natal…

Why ? For the past decade, this place has been my favorite haunt and quite often chose it as the perfect hub to spend my husband´s birthday. It´s the ideal destination for so many reasons that I can only think of the most precious one: sun and simple life.

For the rest, just take a good look at these images and then reach your own conclusion. How much exactly would you endure to…

Imagine many stretches of pristine sand framed by high cliffs of pink sandstone which seems as if they will slowly be wiped away by the constant breeze…And the sea, so warm that even I spend half of my beach-not-to-bother-time in the water, trying the old “boadyboarding” exercise. In case you are not familiar with this sport, it consists on sliding down ( very gently) on the waves, using only your body as a support. It´s a delicious sensation. And kids love it.

But you can, of course, surf, windsurf, walk for miles, enjoy the great outdoors and many other activities which are offered either by nature or in the villages Pipa and Tibau do Sul.

Though only apart 4 kilometers from each other, the two villages differ in almost everything. Though both have an exceptional location, the beaches in Tibau are exceptionally deserted, even during high season. On the other hand, there´s not even a glimpse of the glamour that you´ll find in Pipa, a niche for good restaurants, luxurious hotels, boutiques and shops lined along the main and only street.

An unknown fishermen´s village a couple of decades ago, Pipa also attracted surfers and hippies, until these two gems were discovered by the human predator (tourist). You may not think of yourself as an eco-conscious, but when you get to know this paradise, a inner voice will tell you that those many new condominiums should have been banned from the stunning landscape in the first place.

And that cars should also be banned from the main street, mostly during weekends and high peaks. Crowds of tourists, many Europeans ( yes, the Old Continent is aware of Pipa´s existence and nailed it so precisely on the map that a Portuguese carrier introduced very successfully daily direct flights from its capital!)

On the other hand, Tibau kept its characteristics of a simple fishermen´s hub and became the dream retreat of those who want to have the best of both worlds. No nightlife, no main street buzz, no shopping malls, just a couple of very charming hotels ( but I would add that luxuries can be translated into many things and therefore cannot be compared) and a provincial atmosphere.

So, the best of both worlds is staying in Tibau and once a day, or every other day, or just when you feel the itch to go, drive for ten minutes into Pipa, preferably after 7 p.m , and choose one of the cozy restaurants to have dinner. Then stroll back and forth on the main street, appreciate the world-go-by and the beautiful people. When you get tired, pick up your car and drive back to Tibau. Everyone in the village is fast asleep, and so there´s no noise, no loud music or hangovers-on-the-road to disturb a quiet night.

So, it may make you purple with envy, but as I was mentioning about New Year´s Eve, I must confess that I will be in Tibau during the last Saturday and Sunday of 2010. And for the previous weekend too…and the following one. Well, I did the impossible: I stretched the last weekend of the year into 10 simple days to be spent under the sun in paradise, swimming with dolphins by my side.

Curitiba, a southern taste of Brazil

2010-09-02T18:26:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

It was my first time in the capital of the state of Paraná. Unfortunately, I only had one night and one day – Sunday evening and a Monday!

But, on Sunday evening, when I arrived, the best restaurants in town - the starred Durski, elected the best in the south of Brazil, the French L ` Épicerie, the German Cantinho do Einsbein and the Italian Villa Marcolini - were closed. We ended up in a very busy, popular and quite good Japanese ( Taisho) devouring traditional sushi.

Yes, you must have noticed that there´s a pot-pourri of nationalities in this town. All European immigration leaving their footprints in the gastronomy. By the way, Curitiba is also famous as one of the gourmet capitals. And also about their architecture and local culture.

But this is a small town – some label it as provincial - compared to other capitals in Brazil and therefore the week begins on Tuesday and ends on Saturday night.

The same happens about museums, which would have been a good alternative for a Monday morning. But the interesting Museu Oscar Niemeyer ( R. Marechal Hermes,999) was also closed.

Fortunately, the day was sunny and warm ( much too warm for this time of the year, mind you, it´s still winter!!) so I decided to go for a stroll in the Historic Center, or, “Old Town”.
The very charming 18th century Largo da Ordem, a public place with a fountain, where farmers used to come and offer their fresh produces. Nowadays, there´s a market every Sunday morning, which sells artcrafts and hand painted ceramics.

At ten o´clock in the morning, there wasn´t much to do besides going into every small café or shop which would eventually be opened. I ended up sipping a coffee in the Depósito da Ordem, visited the sympathetic Solar do Rosário. Inside, there´s a restaurant, a small library and an art gallery.

By mid-afternoon, before going to the airport, I went to the Botanical Garden and this green area is really amazing. Many people come just to have a look at the manicured gardens – called French Gardens, a kind-of-Versailles-outfit – but mainly to feel the romantic and inspiring atmosphere. I´ve never seen so many couples kissing and hugging as in this park

Fishing and riding in Bahia´s deserted beaches of Santo André

2010-08-26T18:35:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

You can only reach the small town of Santo André by ferry. It´s a very short journey across the bay of Cabrália, away from the bustle of Porto Seguro, in the south of Bahia.

Land of deserted beaches, and surely one of the loveliest landscapes, the area is the habitat of the marlin, an enormous fish which can reach up to 300 kilos. A haven for fishermen , who are sure to have a jolly good time.

Another attraction are the natural pools of the Araripe reef, and sailing boats as well as tourist boats take visitors for a dip into these limpid waters.

Also, surf championships are held in the neighbouring town of Belmonte, only a half hour drive to the north.

The sea can be rough sometimes, or very calm for a long period. There is 7 kilometers of beach that stretches from Santo André to Ponta de Santo Antonio, close to the river which bears the same name.

Fishing can also be put together with horseback riding within the same holiday package. There is one of the most exclusive resort in the region, the Toca do Marlin (www.tocadomarlin.com.br) which offers its guests the opportunity for good rides on the beach.

Actually, it´s a stud farm where fine Lusitanian horses are bred. Even those with little experience can enjoy this combination of riding watching a maritime scenario. If you have never galloped on a deserted beach, give it a try.

Monocle's Tyler Brulé goes gaga for Brazil in his FT column

2010-08-21T09:11:00.000-07:00

Funny how life is full of coincidences... Take, for example, Tyler Brulé, the very well-known London-based editor-in-chief of Monocle magazine and founder of Wallpaper, where he worked previously. The high-profile newsman listed in his latest Financial Times column the many reasons why Brazil is by far his fave of the BRICs. To name but a few: Trancoso, havaianas flip flops and Bebel Gilberto.

This brought a smile to my face because it served as yet another reminder of how small the world really is. It turns out Tyler, in a previous incarnation, lived in a small Quebec town called Hudson, just West of Montreal, and was friends with one of my oldest childhood friends.

Now I live in Montreal and vacation in Trancoso (in my havaianas...) while mr. globetrotting media magnate Tyler left his Montreal 'burb faaaar behind and is just back from my home turf: São Paulo. So it all connects, in a strange way.

Of course Tyler loves the Fasano hotel (so do his Wallpaper buddies and all minimally cool foreign journalists, for that matter). Of course Tyler was whisked away to the Shopping Cidade Jardim and came away thoroughly impressed. Of course he loves architects-du-jour Marcio Kogan and Isay Weinfeld - so does Wallpaper. Of course it's no coincidence that Weinfeld is the man behind the Fasano hotel that so pleases mr Brulé.

"Much of this has to do with the meticulous planning executed by the hotel’s founder Rogerio Fasano and his architect sparring partner Isay Weinfeld. The former is the man behind one of Brazil’s most respected hospitality powerhouses, and Weinfeld is the man who virtually every Brazilian billionaire wants to commission to build their beach houses and city compounds."

Don't get me wrong: I, too, love the Fasano (and its eponymous restaurant, where I've had family dinners since childhood), the Cidade Jardim (although the boutiques are outrageously expensive), and also the beautifully sleek houses and boutiques designed by Marcio Kogan and Isay Weinfeld. But I just think that it's time that these magazine editors who fly in and out started looking beyond the obvious (or obviously cool) and venturing further, instead of always marching to the same drumbeat. God knows they're in Brazil often enough for that - it's just a matter of willing to do a bit of that ol'fashioned thing called.... reporting.

Here, the link to Tyler Brulé's column about "brand Brazil" in the Financial Times.

Click here for more posts about Wallpaper magazine on this blog.

History, culture and art in the colonial town of Olinda

2010-08-17T15:37:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann / photos AK and Maria Donato

Only 10 kilometers away from Recife, Pernambuco´s capital, on top of a hill overlooking the ocean, lies Olinda, a small and charming little town which dates from colonial times. More precisely, from 1535.

In Portuguese, the word Olinda is an exclamation by itself, and means “oh, beautiful!” . You´ll agree with me that this place deserves its name.

Nowadays it's a World Heritage Site and attracts many visitors due to its colonial architecture and for being a very important artistic hub. Art in all shape and forms is spread along colorful façades. The most famous street is the Rua do Amparo. Try number 224 for primitive sculptures and number 91 for a typical drink, the Pau-do-Indio. During the weekends, in the Alto da Sé, you can also shop for souvenirs among several outdoor vendors.

In November and December, in order to show their work, many artists open the doors of their ateliers to the public. Usually, it also happens to be their own home. During this period of the year, art is literally dripping in every corner of Olinda.

In the meantime, if you are passionate about the authentic “way of life”, you´ll enjoy strolling along the streets paved with irregular stones, and browse into the narrow alleys. On the way, you´ll also spot a few well kept churches which date from the 16th and 17th centuries. The entrance is free.

Olinda retains a nostalgic feel which will make you smack your lips in delight.

Be prepared to find good restaurants, regional food and exhibitions shown even inside the premises. But beware about the central market, a kind of tourist trap with not much to buy. On the other hand, don´t miss the Museu do Mamulengo, ( Giant Puppet Museum) a very peculiar and unique museum with exhibits of the giant puppets created specially for the Carnival parade. During this event, Olinda falls under the spell of the “frevo”, a frenetical rhythm which is highly contagious…and involves everyone who happens to be in town.

An typical "portrait" carved in wood.

Rio's best hotels, restaurants and hotels, in Silverkris magazine

2010-08-11T07:42:00.000-07:00

By Alexandra Forbes

So there's a great feature article out this month in Silverkris, Singapore Airlines' inflight magazine. Guess who wrote it? ;)

Joking aside, on the magazine's website you can read the full story and even download the PDF for future reference. The story includes all my hotel and restaurant tips plus lots of news about Rio.

Atol das Rocas : untouchable hell or heaven?

2010-08-10T20:31:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

When I look at those pics, I always remember this friend of mine who was telling us about his wonderful trip to the Atol das Rocas, a small atoll stranded 81 miles away from the island of Fernando de Noronha (which belongs to the State of Pernambuco) and 144 miles from the city of Natal ( capital of the State of Rio Grande do Norte).

He described his diving and swimming in an extraordinarily transparent sea, surrounded by tens of species of fish, some of which he also targeted for dinner time.

And feasted on lobsters freshly caught. He also pointed out that there were lots of fishermen´s boats around, and the men were catching sea turtles with their nets. Oh, yes, by the way, of course this friend was also aboard, though just a sailing boat.

This story is true, but – and a BIG BUT – took place almost 35 years ago.
By this I mean that, today, these scenes would be absolutely impossible to witness, as the Atoll is now a Biological Reserve submitted to the severe rules of the IBAMA , a governmental organ which is responsible for the environment.

But, when browsing at the pictures, your first thought is that this place is absolutely stunning and could be a reflection of a perfect destination in every detail. Wildlife, an uncommon transparency of the water and white stretches of deserted sandy beaches.

Paradise? At first sight, truly saying, yes. But when you think that there´s no fresh water whatsoever and no shade ( under a year-long temperature of over 40ºC) except under a palm tree which actually has been recently “imported” from the continent to this oasis, you´ll probably believe it otherwise.

That if God had created the world to look like this Atoll, then he would have made us with wings…..

Sorry, but you won´t find a mention of the Atoll in the main guides ( though you can certainly find excellent travel and photography books on it), as nowadays it´s almost out of reach and certainly unconceivable as far as a tourist destination is concerned.

And should I add, inaccessible even if you manage to get close to it – which would be by boat, but even if you do throw your anchor one mile away ( the authorized distance) from the Atoll, and consider yourself “in loco”, you wouldn´t even be allowed to take an innocent dip in the warm pristine water.

Lençóis: in Bahia state…with no beaches

2010-08-04T04:19:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Can you imagine Bahia without a beach? I agree, it´s hard to make the (dis)association. But believe me, this state has more than sand and sea to offer to its visitors.

History tells us that Bahia is a melting pot of culture and arts and always emphasizes the magic of its pristine beaches, so not everyone is aware that its mountains, canyons, green meadows and spectacular waterfalls are as impressive as its coastline.

Lençóis (nothing related with the Lençóis Maranhenses I talked about a few weeks ago), doesn´t even appear on its own in most guide books. But this little gem town is a fantastic retreat-kind-of-place located in the Chapada Diamantina, a National Park in the heart of the state of Bahia.

Though it´s not an uncommon destination, Lençóis is the perfect choice for the adventurous traveler who wants to enjoy the great outdoors, as the luxurious twist lies in the environment, spectacular and unique.

Still, even if you are a city slicker and prefer to stay put, you´ll find in this charming colonial town a handful of comfy hotels and good restaurants, as well as a range of festivities and events year-round.

For instance, the Festival of Lençóis which takes place in September will offers a range of shows, dances and plays.

But the adventurous traveler will relish the opportunity for fantastic hikes, and challenging itineraries, some which can last for days.

You could explore the surrounding area of the Chapada and nature lovers would make it a trip of a lifetime. Photographers will also be able to spot incredible images.

Life still goes on as in the past, with colonial buildings preserved and local atmosphere calm and relaxed.

Although less mentioned, Lençóis is a special place, and easily connected through Salvador by plane. Check with Brazilian airlines Trip. (www.voetrip.com.br)

Álvaro Siza's Fundação Iberê Camargo, in Porto Alegre: a masterpiece

2010-08-02T17:06:00.000-07:00

By Alexandra Forbes

“In a building, I like the light, but I also like the half-light and even the darkness – they’re complimentary things,” says Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza.

His project for the Fundação Iberê Camargo, in Porto Alegre, Southern Brazil, is a study in how to tame light.

Sunrays penetrate through only a few small windows (some bean-shaped, some rectangular) facing west at skewed angles and providing just enough illumination on the inside.

From the outside, the central idea that guides the art foundation’s gleaming form, inspired partly by Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim in New York, is rather simple. A ramp system circles around an empty core from top to bottom; at times, it’s contained within the building structure, at others, jutting out beyond the façade, the zig-zag adds texture and movement to an otherwise stark exterior. Here and there, windows reveal stunning vistas of the vast Guaíba River below. And at various points the ramps lead to galleries that house a collection of more than 4,000 works by renowned Brazilian expressionist Iberê Camargo, who died of cancer in 1994.

In designing the building, the Pritzker-prize laureate contended with greater obstacles than the harsh tropical rays. He had to work with a very narrow strip of land, facing a busy expressway and perched on a bluff overlooking the Guaíba. In an engineering tour de force, he carved an access to the museum and parking lot out of the rock underneath the noisy road. He drew the building tall and narrow enough that the steep cliff at the back, blanketed in thick tropical forest, could be left intact. As a result, the bright white structure – built of tinted cement – pops beautifully against a green canvas.

Although Siza is not particularly known for energy-saving initiatives, the museum is in synch the times through various integrated systems as well: rainwater is captured and reused in the bathrooms, and gardens are irrigated with water from the building’s own treatment plant. Rock wool insulation keeps the building comfortable, while the ramps are cooled with water that runs through thin plastic tubing. Yet it is its sculptural shape and angular whiteness that has locals talking. It may not boast the enormity and shine of a Guggenheim Bilbao, but the Fundação trumps Oscar Niemeyer’s Niterói Museum of Contemporary Art as the most iconic museum in Brazil.

Under the spell of Ceará state, in Brazil's Nordeste

2010-07-26T18:53:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Ceará is one of my favorite states. Not only because it´s so uncommonly beautiful in many distinguished features, like the endless stretches of sandy beaches and the wildness of nature which surrounds them.

It´s also oddly attractive because it´s as if time has stopped in several little seaside resorts, like Mundaú, as pictured here in some of the images. By the way, seasons are different in the northeast : now it´s “their summer”, so it´s as hot as it can be, dry and sunny.

Early morning you can go down to the seashore and watch as the fishermen come back from their catch. Dozens of people gather , some buying but many of them just waiting to be granted with the “leftovers”.

You will also spot people coming on donkeys, bikes and all kind of means of transportation. The sand gets very hard as the tide goes down. That´s why one of the best way to explore the region is with a funny sort of car called buggy, perfect for sandy beaches and very popular with tourists and locals.

The cearense ( those from Ceará) is a jolly good fellow, always very kind and willing to chat. And ready to show you around. But do not hurry in these places. No stress. Life goes on day after day, and while they are busy, folks will grin and eventually pose for your camera. If you start to chat, chances are you´ll never be waved away.

Also be prepared to eat as a local - fresh lobster, crabs and crayfish, delicious seafood straight from the nets, cooked, grilled or broiled. And, while you wait, facing the sea, sitting on a wooden stool, feet on the sand, ask for an “água de côco”, and sip the fresh coconut water inside its shell. Then, you´ll use “local tools” to eat - your fingers, at some point.

But I guarantee that you won´t regret a bite !

fishermen coming back after a busy day of work

Renting a house in Brazil: Casas Charmosas, a website you can trust

2010-07-23T13:45:00.000-07:00

If there's one thing that the internet has almost too much of is info on hotels and houses for rent. Thousands, millions of sites! But... who to trust? I am particularly careful with sites that don't have a human touch behind them, someone to answer the phone and answer all my questions.

For that same reason, I am very careful when recommending one of these sites: there's just too many crooks out there and I don't want to be responsible for ruining someone elses' vacation!

But here's one site I can safely vouch for: Casas Charmosas. The reason is very simple: this is a business that was created by my oh-so-stylish cousin Ana Carolina Salem Vanossi.

She inspects each property before signing with the owners, and all of the homes have a high level of elegance and comfort.

I'm looking into my New Year's plans this week, and have been browsing through her offerings in Trancoso, which is Bahia's most magical beach village (lots been written on this blog about the place, in fact). This post is illustrated with photos of one of Ana Carolina's Trancoso houses, the Casa dos Segredos. Three suites. 250 meters from the beach. Huge DVD library for the rare rainy day. Not bad, huh?

On her site, house descriptions are in Portuguese, but she is fluent in English and French, and can gladly assist with any booking. Her phone number is (55-11) 2307-7898. She also does house swaps...

The courting ritual of the blue macaws in the Pantanal

2010-07-19T10:13:00.001-07:00

by Antonella Kann

So sorry to bring back the animal theme so fast. But I didn´t resist to share with you a few images of animals which can be admired in the wild in their habitat, the Pantanal region, which remains today, with 89,000 square miles, as one of the most enormous and undamaged tropical ecosystems on earth.

As any animal lover, I was really impressed by the behavior of a couple of gorgeous blue araras , or, translated into scientific language, the hyacinthine macaw, which is an endangered bird like so many others.

So, in the sequence, as I watched this loving duo of araras courting each other,
it crossed my mind that we, mere human beings, have much to learn from nature – and natural male/female attitudes.

This bird, which congregates in Pantanal´s trees, is one of the world´s most threatened species and in the black market is worth at least U$ 10 thousand a head.

Mr. & Mrs Araras Azuis - blue macaw - in a sunny morning

Another beautiful winged animal is the tuiuiú, which is known as the jabiru stork, and is the biggest flying bird in Brazil, with a wingspan of more than seven feet. The deer, also very rare to be seen as relaxed as in this picture, is also endangered.

the "tuiuiú" eating a snake is somewhat impressive.

Now let´s check out on one of the favorite mammals, the monkey...

Much admired and also feared – just watch out for those teeth! – is the macaco-prego, which means nail monkey. They can come quite close and are always looking for food. But beware as they can be treacherous and fast enough to grab whatever is loose in seconds flat. So, think purse, camera, sunglasses, hat, necklaces, whatever they can lay their hands.

Fortunately, all these animals are protected by conservationists, ranchers and, of course, severe environmental laws.

The pink cliffs of the Chapada dos Guimarães

2010-07-13T08:14:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

The Chapada dos Guimarães National Park ( “chapada” means, in a funny sort of translation, the flat landscape on top of a chain of mountains and canyons) , located in the state of Mato Grosso, the heart of Brazil, is over 300 millions years old.

That´s when it was still covered by water. Now it´s an astonishing place, where rock formations change colour depending on the sun and the light.

Dozens of waterfalls and lagoons are the attractions of the park, where you can hike and enjoy refreshing dips in cool waters, all year-round. The rich fauna and flora also contribute to the fabulous scenery.

Away only 69 kilometers from capital Cuiabá, the nearest airport, and located 900m above sea level, the Chapada can easily be reached through a good and well signposted road. The journey only takes around one hour.

More than 4 thousand medicinal plants have been recorded in the park, in which the only way to explore is by foot, along narrow trails and sinuous paths.

The Chapada is a sanctuary for the fans of eco-tourism, as it is the habitat of many species of stunning birds such as toucans, parrots and araras – the latter makes its nest all against the cliffs and can be seen flying all the time.

It makes sense to hire a guide before adventuring yourself into the Park, as steep cliffs can be dangerous and while you may feel the impulse to go near the precipice, there are some spots that must reeeeeeeeeally be avoided. There has been some fatal accidents, so I must warn the most intrepid to be extra cautious. Specially if you have children with you.

Don´t miss the Cidade da Pedra ( City of Rock) at sunset. The view is amazing and the salmon- pink colour reflected on the cliffs is an unforgettable sight. Also, the Véu da Noiva waterfall is one of the most impressive natural wonders to be admired.

You should plan an overnight stay, if possible, to have time to visit at leisure every site and enjoy swimming in many natural pools and lagoons. There´s a couple of charming pousadas around town, where you´ll also find artcrafts made by local Indian and some souvenir shops to relax after your hikes.

Check the official site www.ibama.gov.br/parna_guimaraes for more infos about accommodations and guides.

Rio's Cristo Redentor reopens after extensive renovations

2010-07-08T09:37:00.000-07:00

by Alexandra Forbes

The Cristo Redentor, Rio's most recognizeable landmark, was officially reopened in June after four months of renovations. Cracks in the gigantic Christ statue (38 meters tall) were mended, water infiltrations were fixed, and, to celebrate the end of the works in high style, the monument was lit up in green and yellow for the first week of July.

Visitors should not that landslides have foreced authorities to close down the road leading up to the sought-after attraction, and only taxis are allowed to go through.

Itanhangá: the oldest golf course in Rio is among the 10 best in Brazil.

2010-07-05T19:36:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Are you into golf? Thought so. And guess what, even if you are just visiting Rio for a few days you can actually enjoy playing, as Itanhangá Golf Club, although being a private club only reserved for members, actually welcomes outside guests from selected hotels in town. You may check ahead for the reserved schedules, green fees and participating hotels on www.itanhanga.com.br

In July, Itanhangá Golf Club will be celebrating 75 years of existence, as it opened to the public in 1935 , two years after its construction began in Barra da Tijuca.

At that time, it was one of the most remote areas in town, with Ipanema as the last inhabited neighbourhood. There was no tunnel connecting any place to the Barra. And, remember, Rio was still the capital of Brazil.

Nowadays, Itanhangá´s magnificent 18 holes circuit is still preserved in an extraordinary lush green valley with plenty of trees. Players can spot araras, monkeys, toucans, flamingos and all sorts of birds along the almost 100 acres of terrain.

This golf course was considered by Exame magazine as one of the 10 best in Brazil and the high end publication Golf Digest rated it among the 100 best worldwide.

It´s 18th hole is considered to be one of the most difficult in the world, a challenge to the best players, even though the course is appropriated to anyone with a handicap 25 or less. Higher handicaps will find the course somehow harder, but worth the try.

Golf widows can enjoy the attractive clubhouse, with its restaurant, the pool and the quiet environment, only a mere half-hour from the busy Leblon and Ipanema hubs- traffic permitting, of course.

Estrada da Barra da Tijuca, 2005
Tel. 55 21 2494 2507

Lençois of the Maranhão state: our wet desert

2010-07-01T14:52:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

As promised, I will introduce you to our desert: the Lençóis Maranhenses. They are located in the state of Maranhão and are best seen during our winter time, when the rainy season is over and the lagoons are full.

This endless chain of dunes is a stunning scenery which changes constantly with the wind. Don´t forget to watch the sunset from the top of the highest ones.

Hundreds of lagoons are flanked by these magnificent dunes, and that´s what makes our desert different and unique: it´s the only wet desert on the planet.

Some dunes measure up to 40 meters. The sand is as creamy as a béchamel cream and soft under your feet. You can roll down, or run down…anything will be thrilling. Moreover if there´s a lagoon at the bottom, with cool and translucid waters, in which you can dip and swim as you please.

Tourists are welcome, but as the Lençóis (pronounce lain-soy´s) are a National Park, guides are mandatory. You must hire one in the nearest town, Barreirinhas, which is also the main “gate” to the dunes.

It´s not an easy way to reach the entrance of the park, and includes a river crossing followed by a dust road only accessible by 4x4 vehicles.You´re unlikely to be bored, as there´s a lot to see in the region of Lençóis: little towns, rivers, wildlife and more. You can walk, hike, drive, ride boats and quads, photograph…And although it´s not a foodie destination, you´ll enjoy the prawns and fresh grilled fish. Don´t try to track down a fancy restaurant because you´ll get frustrated. Stay local and be happy.

Even if you´re afraid of small planes, don´t hesitate to do the flight above the Lençóis, as the shapes of this labyrinth of sand are impossibly beautiful.

Diller, Scofidio + Renfro in Rio! Sleazy nightclub Help torn down to make room for museum

2010-06-30T17:33:00.000-07:00

Copacabana, the beach district in Rio best known for being home of the Copacabana Palace (Copa to the locals), has seen better days.

The Copa, however, remains a landmark. Remarkably, despite being outside of the glam Ipanema-Leblon circut, the Copa - founded in 1923 by the Guinle family and a veritable landmark - still hosts some of the most spectacular weddings and parties of Rio’s high society in its grand salons. In fact, several hundred well-heeled cariocas even pay a yearly fee to have access to the pool, spa and tennis court, as if it were their own private club.

But that has not stopped the decline of the neighbourhood as a whole, sadly...

The Copacabana glorified in song and film has long become the hooker-and-pickpocket territory, while the well-to-do favour glitzier and safer Ipanema and Leblon.

As the Financial Times recently put it, the bars on beachfront promenade are " the kind of place where female prostitutes, who represent most of the visible clientele, know the waiters by name, and vice-versa.
Nearby looms Copacabana’s defunct Meridien hotel, an unlovely concrete tower, which, as a measure of things, recently came close to being transformed into the world’s first skyscraper bordello. Across the street is La Cicciolina, a nightclub named after the Hungarian-born former porn star Ilona Staller.
It is a sleazy part of town (...), although sometimes the odd tourist couple can be seen there, seated haplessly among the prostitutes and the dissolute regulars, earnestly examining their menus and looking a little scared. Like most cities, Rio is all about knowing where to go and where not to go.
Copacabana faded from fashion not long after Barry Manilow consecrated it with that tacky 1978 disco hit showtune “Copa-Caah-baaana”.

Well, La Cicciolina is still going strong, but another sleazy nightclub favoured by ladies of the night is officially kaput. Help, a big black box that sat as an eyesore right on the seaside promenade, has been torn down to make way for a new museum if image and sound, the Museu da Imagem e do Som.

Who drew up the winning project? None other than famed architecture firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro. To me, the project looks strikingly beautiful, and I love the way the ramps that cover the façade reference Rio's signature wavy/ziz-zag cobbled sidewalks.

Copacabana Palace: Um hotel e sua historia (Portuguese Edition), on Amazon.com

Chef Alex Atala of D.O.M. restaurant: recipes on Wallpaper's site

2010-06-26T09:24:00.000-07:00

Alex Atala's Heart of palm "fettuccine" with coral and glazed shrimp
Photo: Cassio Vasconcelos

Much has been said and written about Wallpaper's Brazil edition, which came out in May and was chock-full of information. To read more about it, click here.

But I'm guessing much of the material the team collected did not make it into the printed edition.... They've made available on their site, for example, three recipes by celeb-chef Alex Atala of D.O.M. restaurant.

For those interested, here's the link.

Santa Teresa hotel: Rio's first Relais & Châteaux

2010-06-26T09:16:00.000-07:00

By Alexandra Forbes

I've written before about the hotel Santa Teresa, in the eponymous district known for its colourful façades and old trams (above)... Opened in 2008, it is the most relevant addition to Rio's hotel scene since the opening of the Fasano Rio (in 2007).

Previously a historic private estate called Chácara dos Guimarães (pictured above), which was a working coffee plantation for many years, it was converted into a minimalistic white-washed inn where humble materials like raw linens and cottons, coconut shells and banana-tree fibres were used to rustic-luxe effect.

Burnt cement, bordeaux or golden slate, red and dark tropical woods, and timeless modernisitc furniture by acclaimed designer Sergio Rodrigues complete the look.

The hotel is sprinkled with artifacts and art made by the Xingu and Tupi Guarani Indians, as well as iconic pieces referencing Afro-Brazilian traditions and the states of Pernambuco, Bahia and Rio de Janeiro.

From all rooms and the gardens, panoramic views of the city, the harbor and bay of Rio.

Vases of tropical flowers and an abundance of Amazonian artifacts complete the exotic-Brazil look of the Relais & Châteaux property, owned by a team of investors led by Frenchman François Delort.

The Loft Suite, the hotel's best, won Wallpaper Magazine's 2010 Design Awards for best suite.

François Delort not only directs the hotel but also decorated the beautiful restaurant with unusual materials: eucalyptus branches double as privacy screens while the brownish sheen that lends the floors a warm feel was achieved with a coat of re-used diesel!

Hotel Santa Teresa
R. Almirante Alexandrino, 660 - Santa Teresa – Rio de Janeiro
www.santateresahotel.com
Tel (21) 2221-1406
reservas@santateresahotel.com.br

Hotel Santa Teresa:

Most beautiful folkloric event : the Cavalhadas of Pirenópolis:

2010-06-25T22:20:00.000-07:00

by Antonella Kann

Chances are you ( and most of the Brazilians) never heard about this event. It´s called the Cavalhadas and it´s been happening for more than a century in a little colonial town called Pirenópolis, in the state of Goiás, only 140 kilometers from Brasilia.

This is one of the most genuine folkloric Brazilian festivity, which takes place in May, right after the Festa do Divino, another popular event which attracts visitors from all over the state.

The Cavalhadas is a dramatic representation of the war between the Moors and the Christians, and the “armies” simulate a medieval battle in a open-air arena. The show is free for anyone to attend.

Unfortunately, as there´s not much publicity in the press or tv, it ends up being quite tourist-free. Which is good in a in way, as the place don´t get packed as Carnival, for instance.

But on the other side, it´s a pity that the Cavalhadas, although very traditional, have been kept as a regional secret for decades. I would even say that it´s a shame, as it´s very colorful, authentic, alive and impossibly beautiful.

You will be walking down the cobbled stone streets of Pirenópolis and bump into one of those characters...

The “soldiers” from both the Moors and the Christian sides will be riding around the town, in their garnments, as well as dozens of masked riders strolling the streets on all sorts of horses and donkeys, causing a paraphernalia which is impossible to describe.

The people who are participating in the event are always very friendly and will tolerate your presence while tending their animals. And will even offer you a beer. By the way, this is also the land of the cachaça. There are more than a hundred types waiting for you in several small bars. And, as you´re likely to be using your feet instead of your car ( which should definitely be left in the parking lot of your pousada!) feel free to go wild!

The atmosphere is simply… fantastic. It´s unbelievable how imagination works for these people!

After gazing at all sorts of characters, you can also amuse yourself by digging into antiques shops offering furniture and delicious old bric-à-brac. And, of course, there are the traditional small stores selling all sorts of regional artifacts.

On the day of the “battle”, instead of getting into the stadium very early, try to spot the “armies” getting ready for the event. The making-off starts at dawn, usually around 4 o´clock in the morning. It goes on until the show begins.

But let´s talk about Pirenópolis for a change, an attractive colonial town in itself, with small but comfortable pousadas and good restaurants.

Astor bar in Rio: Ipanema's newest hotspot, next door to the Fasano

2010-06-20T20:12:00.000-07:00

Yes, they did it again: the owners of the ultra-popular Bráz pizza joints, Pirajá bar and Astor restaurant, among other inimitable hot spots in São Paulo, are proceding with their expansion in Rio. The latest newcomer is an outpost of Astor - which calls itself a bar but is actually a casual restaurant which doubles as bar (here, food is taken quite seriously and is not a mere sidenote).

The location of the Rio Astor could not be any nobler: the corner of Vieira Souto avenue and Rainha Elizabeth street, in Ipanema. A few steps away from Rio's hottest hotel, the Fasano. And across the avenue from Ipanema beach. Per-FECT!

The main feature of the brasserie-style décor is the antique bar shipped all the way from Philadelphia.

Black-and-white photos of Rio's most iconic old bars line the walls.

The draft beer is stupendous - that's what these guys are best-known for. But they've worked on a respectable list of martinis, and also serve imaginative versions of the caipirinha.

The food is hangover-friendly: Picadinho, a classic beef stir fry (R$ 32) Steak tartare (R$ 34), and the all-time brazilian favourite, steak with rice, beans and onions.

Bar Astor
Avenida Vieira Souto, 110 – Ipanema
Telefone: (21) 2523-0085
www.barastor.com.br

Porto Maravilha: Rio's port area to undergo huge rehaul

2010-06-20T19:49:00.000-07:00

By Alexandra Forbes

The upcoming World Cup is already bringing benefits to Rio. One of the most important is the planned rehaul of the port area, which today is not only an eyesore but also surrounded by abandoned warehouses with peeling paint and cracked windows, impoverished housing and dangerous streets and derelict areas. Although the city's port is huge and important to the economy of the city, it is used only for loading and unloading big ships:

Finally, the upcoming World Cup has pushed authorities to work on a multimillion dollar renewal project, which has been named Porto Maravilha, or Wonder Port.

The area will, in a few years, have its own museum, the Museu de Arte do Rio:

The "new" port district will be a mixed-use area with residential condos, shopping, promenades and even an Aquarium:

Here's a video that shows what will be done to the area. Although it's narrated in Portuguese, the 3-d graphics are quite clear:

La Suite, in Rio: an exclusive inn with only 7 rooms

2010-06-20T19:28:00.000-07:00

By Alexandra Forbes, with photos by Constance Escobar

Although my name is at the top of this post, the true author of it is my friend Constance Escobar, an expert in all things Rio. She lives and works in Rio, but in recent years has also found time to write about her native city. Blogging became a passion and now she "travels" in her own backyard making wonderful discoveries like this one: La Suite.

This 7-room guesthouse is almost completely unknown in Rio itself.

It's located in a residential district called Joá where tourists hardly ever go. Tucked away behind a deceptively small door Constance encountered.... THIS!

The views left her breathless...

A full 95% of guests are foreign. How do they find this place? Wallpaper magazine?
Check! Mr and Mrs Smith? Check! Basically, they've been featured in all cool travel and lifestyle mags.

Co-owners Rodrigo Harold and François-Xavier Dussol (who also owns La Maison, in Gávea, which you can read about here), actually live there, and the place feels definitely.... residential!

François was in charge of the elegant décor...

But the décor has no way of beating the "décor" of the outdoors: stunning!

Even the cute and colourful rooms have that amazing view. YES, every one of them!

Rates are around R$560,00 to R$960,00. (USD 300-500)

La Suíte – Rua Jackson de Figueiredo 501 – Joá