Tiradentes, a return to the past

the Maria Fumaça old fashioned train

by Antonella Kann
The 21st of April is approaching and it´s a National Holiday in Brazil, as it celebrates the execution of a martyr named Joaquim da Silva Xavier, known as Tiradentes. He was one of the revolutionary leaders of the Inconfidencia Mineira in the 17th century, a conspiration against the government, which shook the country´s History and was crucial for our Independence.

But let´s take this opportunity to talk about the small mining town which now bears its name: Tiradentes, which was after all the headquarters of this very important political movement. Located in the state of Minas Gerais, only 300 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro, it was designated a National Historic Site in 1938. Tiradentes has managed to preserve its architectural wonders from the past, as well as an 18th century atmosphere, and nowadays it´s considered one of Brazil´s most picturesque colonial towns.

the Matriz Church

The Maria Fumaça train is one of the symbol of this historic spot. It was inaugurated in 1881 by D. Pedro II and is a tourist attraction that links the neighboring city of São João del Rey to Tiradentes. The journey takes half an hour and most people just come to spend a few hours in town.

typical restaurant

Due to several cultural events, there´s a constant flow of visitors all year round. In January, there´s a film festival, in June the annual encounter of Harley´s bikers and a very competitive gastronomy festival in August. Besides this, the surrounding hills that frame Tiradentes attract crowds of eco-tourists hiking the pathways used in the past by the Inconfidentes.

Pousada Solar da Ponte

Cars seem out of place in a small town where all the streets are paved with uneven stones. Best way to visit the sights of Tiradentes is either by foot, exploring every little alley and narrow street, or by horse-drawn carriages, which can be hailed in the Largo das Forras, which is the main square. Some paths are really steep, so if you choose to walk, wear appropriate shoes.

Pousada dos Inconfidentes

Cars seem out of place in a small town where all the streets are paved with uneven stones. Best way to visit the sights of Tiradentes is either by foot, exploring every little alley and narrow street, or by horse-drawn carriages, which can be hailed in the Largo das Forras, which is the main square. Some paths are really steep, so if you choose to walk, wear appropriate shoes.

Praça das Forras, main square

Don´t forget to visit the Rosário church , also known as the church of the Negroes. Slaves were able to build it with the gold they used to hide underneath their fingernails. Have a look at the Largo do Ó, the Padre Toledo Museum and the former prison.

You will be delighted with Tiradentes´historical atmosphere, and surprised by the excellency of its hotels, two of which were selected by the prestigious Conde Nast Johansen´s guide. Check for the Pousada dos Inconfidentes ( www.pousadadosinconfidentes.com.br), a sophisticated establishment located a couple of kilometers away from the town center, and the Solar da Ponte ( www.solardaponte.com.br) , a traditional hotel a stone´s throw from the main square and the historic center, restaurants and shops.

As far as food is concerned, this is certainly one of the few places in Brazil gathering so many restaurants boasting a star from reputed Guia 4 Rodas. You can choose from the typical mineiro to sushi, but French and Italian as well. And they all are walking distance from any place you´re staying.

Micos at the Solar da Ponte: tea time

the Chafariz

Carved wood, iron sculptures, decorative wood sculptures, ceramics, cloths, bed spreads, carpets, rugs, pewter, you name it. There are souvenirs shops galore selling all kind of art crafts for reasonable prices. Besides eating and sightseeing, you can shop until you drop in Tiradentes.

typical mineira food: pork chops, sausage and couve

artcrafts found in several shops

Rua Direita, one of the famous alleys