Búzios off season: a seaside oasis

by Antonella Kann

Set on one of the most beautiful peninsulas on the southern coastline of Brazil, only 190 kilometers from Rio de Janeiro, Buzios was discovered by French actress Brigitte Bardot in the sixties. Since then, its charms have attracted visitors from all over the world and, in the blink of an eye, this once quiet little fishermen’s village has leapt to international fame.

During high season, which runs from December till Easter, the town overflows with visitors. It´s almost impossible to find vacancy in the numerous hotels and pousadas without making reservations well in advance. Huge cruise liners spend the day and off-load hundreds of passengers onto the beaches at Armação and Ossos. Traffic is jammed and no matter where you are, parking is complicated.


The pedestrian mall, Rua das Pedras, is the busiest meeting point after dark. On both sides it bustles with shops, boutiques, bars, mini shopping centers, restaurants and art galleries.
But all one has to do is wait until the end of summer, when Buzios goes back to its old atmosphere ( or almost…)

As from April, the town is an oasis of calm, providing a pleasant combination of high quality infrastructure with the air of a small fishing village. The large cruisers delete the spot temporarily, the beaches are not invaded by day tourists, there are no queues at the high end restaurants, prices go down everywhere.

Thanks to its micro climate, temperatures remain agreeable all year-round, and in winter you will easily wrap yourself in warm clothing after a nice sunny day spent at the beach. There are also plenty of appealing activities, like boating, horseriding, walking, hiking hidden trails in the surrounding hills, and even going to the downtown cozy movie theater can fit in a busy schedule.

The fantastic beaches, each with its own characteristics, are what really attract visitors to Búzios. Geribá cannot be beaten for surfing and all other water sports, as well as socializing; the tiny Forno is intimate and the sea is always calm, ideal for swimming, as well as Ferradurinha. Rasa and Manguinhos still retain something wild and the latter now hosts several seaside bars where you can eat fish and all kind of seafood caught in the morning by locals. Think lobster, prawns, clams….

Praia da Ferradura, welcoming despite its size, attracts a more chic and conservative public. A massage at the water´s edge is something to be experienced. The enchanting Ossos is the favorite of Buzios´ pioneers. Olho de Boi, a nudist beach, can only be reached by foot through a steep pathway.

There are several others to talk about, and just their names are worth mentioning: Tartaruga, Azeda and Tucuns ( Turtle, Sour and Palm Trees) are all lovely, so the best thing to do is visit them all and pick your own.