Brazil for Insiders: Fasano Rio, in Ipanema: the best hotel in Rio

Dec 30, 2008

Fasano Rio, in Ipanema: the best hotel in Rio

Much has been written about the Fasano Rio, the new hotel in Ipanema that set a new standard in luxury accomodation in Rio (to see the photos above full size, just click on them). The hotel won countless awards, made it onto Condé Nast Traveler's Hot List and was praised in articles in most of the world's top travel magazines.

So at the risk of sounding redundant, I've got to say there's no hotel like it in Rio. It's not the biggest nor the one with the best infra-structure, but rather the funnest and most stylish. It was co-designed by owner Rogério Fasano - the Ian Schrager of Brazil - and Philippe Starck. You can see additional photos by my friend and travel guru Ricardo Freire (just click here).

When I arrived, I felt I'd been there before, since I'd already seen a million photos and read a million articles about it. There was the gigantic tree trunk that doubles as the front desk, where ultra-polished young women in brown dresses checked me in.

The most important thing to know about the Fasano Rio is that if you can afford it, an oceanview suite is the way to go. The back rooms facing residential buildings have no view and much less light and simply do not compare.

I wasn't all that impressed by the luxuries I've already come to expect of five stars, such as the king-size bed sheathed in high-thread-count cotton sheets, or the oversize white marble shower and whirpool bath, or the two impecably ironed bath robes and Havaianas flip flops (in lieu of slippers, fittingly).

What really struck me wasn't the ample sitting area with a stainless-topped bar and a flat-screen TV, either. Rather, it was the vastness of the space - bedroom separated from the lounge by a billowy white curtain that, when pulled back, gave it the feel of a seaside loft. The free-standing bed itself seems to float in the room, with only tree-stub bedside tables as anchors.

Here is a video I made of my suite:

It seemed like a Soho l0ft owned by a millionaire artist or designer with exquisite taste, rather than a hotel room. But it had a huge advantage over any Soho loft: from the confort of the bed one could look out onto the Ipanema sand and sea, through the glass wall.

The rooftop pool is not only beautiful but also quite a scene: local celebs and models are often spotted on the chaise longues or having drinks at the poolside bar.

The hotel's restaurant, the Fasano Al Mare, has been gathering momentum and positive reviews, and is now considered the top fish and seafood restaurant in town.

I went back last October and stayed in a simpler room, facing the back, but still had an amazing time. Who was a constant at the pool? Diana Krall, recording a DVD...