May 6, 2010

Fazenda da Lagoa: bewitchingly beautiful haven in the south of Bahia

by Antonella Kann

For my husband´s 57th birthday, I decided to surprise him with a long weekend in a secluded place to celebrate this date discreetly, as he no longer fancies big parties - nor greetings. Whatever destination, wifi in the room was not an option.

That ´s what I had in mind...

...And combined with this also....
The Fazenda da Lagoa ( couldn´t be more appropriate: it´s a bewitchingly beautiful and small pousada located ( or should I say hidden? ) as far as possible from the madding crowd, but conveniently situated only 35 minutes away ( by car) from Ilheus´ airport, in the south of Bahia.

Around the pousada, there´s nothing except lush vegetation and an endless white washed sandy beach, framed by coconut trees and, of course, the sea. You bet, location is…everything. Plus, the flight from Rio would only take around 2 hours with another (swift) 35mns hop from Salvador. Nowadays, the less time you´re predicted to sit on a plane, the best. So the itinerary looked great.

The minute you leave the BR-001 and enter the winding dirt road that literally separates you from the real world, you realize that from now on the word civilization will have other meanings. For instance, a 10 kilometers deserted picture-postcard beach for you to stroll along. By yourself. I mean it: except for a couple of local fishermen, there´s not a soul in sight.

the living room, library and dining room

Why? Because the whole extension of the beach is private, as part of the estate that belongs to the Fazenda – which, by the way, can only be reached by boat ( a short 300meters ride, but still a boat ride). There´s no village, no commerce, no beach vendors, not even someone walking around selling coconut water. Overall, the sand is immaculate, as there´s no litter whatsoever.

To describe the Fazenda just as an off-the-radar gem is an understatement. It´s more than a place where you are pampered and relish in complete privacy in one of the 14 bungalows that are graciously spread apart in an enchanting surrounding of coconut trees. It´s a place where you share nature from morning till night, and get all the simple pleasures of life from it.

every bungalow is apart from the other: complete privacy.

Bare feet in the sand – and everywhere, if that´s your wish! – head for a view of the sunrise by the river and/or the sunset by the sea. In between, indulge in a massage at the spa , otherwise life may become really hard to endure! Or else, well, a little shopping does no harm and even in paradise, there are always little develish temptations - one of them are the most amazing patterns hand painted on table cloth and pillow cases by artist and owner Mucki Skowronski. All for sale in the tiny boutique which is also the reception area.

Mucki´s colorful patterns
Another refreshing option, at anytime ( but preferably during low tide) is a dip in the ocean, or relax by the pool, and don´t ever forget to sip a caipirinha made of fresh fruit only ( think cashew, passion fruit, kiwi and more)! But your life is definitely ruled by nature. Let´s say, by the tantrums of the tides. High and low. So if you are planning a long stroll on the beach, a pleasure in itself, it must happen during low tide. Also, you can bike for hours on the sand which become as hard as a dirt road… at low tide. But watch out, as water rises very quickly and wipes the beach out of your feet.

Indeed, food is also highly ranked here and you´ll have a taste of regional cuisine as well as fusion with Brazilian and international recipes. By the way, on June 3 to 6, there will be a gastronomic event run by famous French chef Claude Troigros. I strongly recommend that those interested must really rush to grab a room.

Again, room is also an understatement, by the way. Your accommodation couldn´t be more spacious, comfy, with an enormous king bed, wide screen TV, DVD, air conditioning ( yes, I know, all of these items are more than civilized, but let´s agree that they really come in handy after you have relaxed all day in the natural environment). Ah! But, remember, I had chosen a haven where there´s no wi fi and probably your cell phone won´t work. Ideal for honeymooners? Positive. But also for old couples like us, who actually enjoy being in a place where coconut leaves sizzle when caressed by the constant breeze.

at high tide, the beach disappears.

But as we are not the somnolent types, we also love to explore. So we head every morning for a swim in the beautiful lagoa in the premises, which actually inspired the owners to name their pousada Fazenda da Lagoa after this charming lake. Its water is always crystal, it doesn´t matter if it rains or shines. And you can spend hours swimming as the temperature is as warm as it gets. After all, you are in Bahia!

1 comment:

  1. Nice information! They are very impressive estates with beautiful landscaping, tropical flowers and many varieties of trees. One of the most unusual trees is the Bombax, a tree without leaves covered by pink flowers.