Under the spell of Boipeba´s charms

by Antonella Kann

Long time no see, you´ll say. And you´re right. I´ve been deep in travels, but very bad in posting something new since...well, you tell me. But during these trips I´ve visited places that you ought to go, either for a long vacation or short stay. One of those is Boipeba, very off the beaten track. It´s Bahia old-style in its true essence. You can fly from Salvador on a small plane from a tiny company called Addey ( reservas@addey.com.br ) which drops you off on that charming "airport" which you see on the first picture...

You then take a small canoe and jump off on a beach in central Boipeba. No cars, no motorized vehicles. The pousadas send a porter with a yellow wheelbarrow which will lift your luggage to your final destination. Best place to go is the Pousada Mangabeiras (www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br) , fabulous location on the top of a hill with eye-filling views. Check it out from the picture above. All of the rooms from cozy bungalows have this privilege. Note that you have to climb over 70 steps to reach your kingsize bed...

Sunshine, a good book and your favorite companion with you - this is basically the recipe if you want a perfect place. But if you are not the sort of person who slips from the room straight into a lounge chair by the pool, then try walking miles and miles around the island ( yes, you´ve guessed, Boipeba is an island) and discover unspoilt beaches, calm and pristine waters and, at low tide, natural pools.

Being miles from anywhere of consequences, framed by a picturesque landscape, Boipeba harbors the atmosphere of old-style Bahia. Relaxed, and affordable -chic. Try to go off-season and do not stay less than 3 nights. Ah, indulge in a fantastic massage with the therapist recommended in Pousada Mangabeiras´front desk. I did forget her name, but I remember that she is a very sweet American lady and you will be in heaven for an hour - I promise!

Late afternoon, sunset time, go for a walk around the village, all sand alleys, fishermen´s atrium, some tourists - lots of backpackers heading for smaller pousadas which used to be locals´home.

Although Boipeba is googleable by now, it still is that divine laidback sort of place.

New Year´s Eve will strike again soon!

by Antonella Kann

I can´t believe we are already thinking about New Year´s Eve, but if you are like me, it´s already late. I´ve booked mine months ago - and guess where? Same place than last year´s. Yes, it´s Tibau do Sul alright. And next week I´ll have good news for you about this spot, because I just found out that there´s a new luxurious place for you to try your luck. In the meantime, let´s figure out what can be done from now on. Well, Bahia is always on everybody´s mind, so we´ll begin our list with a very discreet though very upscale Boipeba, not an easy access ( but who cares, once there, it´s paradise!).

As all places out of (easy) reach, this secluded location retains its cachet. And so does the Pousada Mangabeiras ( http://www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br/) where you´ll find the very relaxing way to spend the most sought-after vacation of the year. The pousada is part of reputed Roteiros de Charme, a well-known chain of charming small hotels in Brazil.

With intimacy combined with rustic sophistication in the bungalows, you are deep into the surrounding nature, which is unspoilt and unexplored. And also blissfully unpeopled.

As you are framed by blissfully deserted beaches, the most exquisite torture will be to tan the days away under plentiful of sunshine or submit yourself to sessions of massage and/or acunpuncture, offered in the pousada. For New Year´s Eve, the 6-nights package is still available at rates which range from R$7.910,00 to R$ 9.260 for the Master Bungalow. But, hurry up, as space is limited!

Another of Bahia´s idyllic fragment:Praia do Forte

by Antonella Kann

It´s no secret that Bahia´s coastline is dotted with the most dreamy stretches of sandy beaches, but no doubt very few places are as enchanting as Praia do Forte, located around 50 kms north of Salvador´s airport. My first visit to this seaside resort was more than 20 years ago, long before it became a tourist´s hot spot, and since then I would go back countless times.

It´s also one of the few places on earth from where I don´t want to leave. Unfortunately, it´s been a couple of years since I ´ve scheduled a weekend there, but I made up my mind to mend this very soon, be assured. It´s less than two hours´ flight from Rio or São Paulo.

A quarter of a century ago, Praia do Forte was a tiny fishermen´s village and off the beaten track. Until it became the birthplace of Projeto Tamar, an ecological plan meant to protect the sea turtles which come ashore to lay their eggs. This project has gathered several international awards for preserving the environment.


So, fortunately, this village reinvented itself as a hub attracting ecotourists as well as those who are looking for an escape with a twist – Praia do Forte´s small hip village is car free, full of cozy boutiques and small shops, bars and fine restaurants serving from hearty Brazilian dishes to international cuisine, and its pousadas have been given a makeover.

Besides, there are dreamy beaches bathed by dozens of natural pools which emerge when the tide is low. Nature lovers will not want to move from the pretty setting – there´s a very interesting visitors´ center where all kind of sea turtles can be seen before being released into the ocean - and there´s lots to do in the area – from shopping to long walks, horseriding, snorkeling, surfing and mountain bike.

Anytime is good. And if there´s a time to go, just go. Chances are you won´t want to leave this place. Just like me.

the natural pools of Praia do Forte: warm and calm waters

Fishing and riding in Bahia´s deserted beaches of Santo André

by Antonella Kann

You can only reach the small town of Santo André by ferry. It´s a very short journey across the bay of Cabrália, away from the bustle of Porto Seguro, in the south of Bahia.



Land of deserted beaches, and surely one of the loveliest landscapes, the area is the habitat of the marlin, an enormous fish which can reach up to 300 kilos. A haven for fishermen , who are sure to have a jolly good time.

Another attraction are the natural pools of the Araripe reef, and sailing boats as well as tourist boats take visitors for a dip into these limpid waters.

Also, surf championships are held in the neighbouring town of Belmonte, only a half hour drive to the north.

The sea can be rough sometimes, or very calm for a long period. There is 7 kilometers of beach that stretches from Santo André to Ponta de Santo Antonio, close to the river which bears the same name.

Fishing can also be put together with horseback riding within the same holiday package. There is one of the most exclusive resort in the region, the Toca do Marlin (www.tocadomarlin.com.br) which offers its guests the opportunity for good rides on the beach.

Actually, it´s a stud farm where fine Lusitanian horses are bred. Even those with little experience can enjoy this combination of riding watching a maritime scenario. If you have never galloped on a deserted beach, give it a try.

Lençóis: in Bahia state…with no beaches

by Antonella Kann

Can you imagine Bahia without a beach? I agree, it´s hard to make the (dis)association. But believe me, this state has more than sand and sea to offer to its visitors.

History tells us that Bahia is a melting pot of culture and arts and always emphasizes the magic of its pristine beaches, so not everyone is aware that its mountains, canyons, green meadows and spectacular waterfalls are as impressive as its coastline.

Lençóis (nothing related with the Lençóis Maranhenses I talked about a few weeks ago), doesn´t even appear on its own in most guide books. But this little gem town is a fantastic retreat-kind-of-place located in the Chapada Diamantina, a National Park in the heart of the state of Bahia.

Though it´s not an uncommon destination, Lençóis is the perfect choice for the adventurous traveler who wants to enjoy the great outdoors, as the luxurious twist lies in the environment, spectacular and unique.

Still, even if you are a city slicker and prefer to stay put, you´ll find in this charming colonial town a handful of comfy hotels and good restaurants, as well as a range of festivities and events year-round.

For instance, the Festival of Lençóis which takes place in September will offers a range of shows, dances and plays.

But the adventurous traveler will relish the opportunity for fantastic hikes, and challenging itineraries, some which can last for days.

You could explore the surrounding area of the Chapada and nature lovers would make it a trip of a lifetime. Photographers will also be able to spot incredible images.

Life still goes on as in the past, with colonial buildings preserved and local atmosphere calm and relaxed.

Although less mentioned, Lençóis is a special place, and easily connected through Salvador by plane. Check with Brazilian airlines Trip. (www.voetrip.com.br)

Renting a house in Brazil: Casas Charmosas, a website you can trust

If there's one thing that the internet has almost too much of is info on hotels and houses for rent. Thousands, millions of sites! But... who to trust? I am particularly careful with sites that don't have a human touch behind them, someone to answer the phone and answer all my questions.

For that same reason, I am very careful when recommending one of these sites: there's just too many crooks out there and I don't want to be responsible for ruining someone elses' vacation!

But here's one site I can safely vouch for: Casas Charmosas. The reason is very simple: this is a business that was created by my oh-so-stylish cousin Ana Carolina Salem Vanossi.

She inspects each property before signing with the owners, and all of the homes have a high level of elegance and comfort.

I'm looking into my New Year's plans this week, and have been browsing through her offerings in Trancoso, which is Bahia's most magical beach village (lots been written on this blog about the place, in fact). This post is illustrated with photos of one of Ana Carolina's Trancoso houses, the Casa dos Segredos. Three suites. 250 meters from the beach. Huge DVD library for the rare rainy day. Not bad, huh?

On her site, house descriptions are in Portuguese, but she is fluent in English and French, and can gladly assist with any booking. Her phone number is (55-11) 2307-7898. She also does house swaps...

Itacaré: surfers´paradise and eco-tourism par excellence!

the deserted beach of Itacarézinho

by Antonella Kann

Let´s continue talking about Bahia's paradisiacal beaches. Itacaré was rediscovered by hippies and surfers in the late 80´s and since then the range of open-air activities have been attracting enthusiasts for its perfect waves as well as nature worshipers.

Inhabited by the Tupiniquin Indians until the arrival of the Europeans in 1530, Itacaré reached its economic peak with the cultivation of cocoa beans. But, with the decline of this product, the place fell into complete isolation for centuries.

However, as many other idyllic havens, nowadays its white sandy beaches bring a flow of visitors from abroad, which means that in the bustling streets of the small village it´s common to hear foreign languages ranging from English to Norwegian, with a good sprinkling of French, German and Italian.

To meet the increasing demand, the hotel network has been upgraded, the restaurants have reviewed their menus and there´s a proliferation of specialized tour operators offering a wide range of open air activities and adventures.

Think anything from tree-climbing, canoeing and rafting, off-road trips, mountain biking, trekking, bathing in waterfalls, all part of extensive programs designed to get the adrenaline pumping. And, of course, there is surfing, which is the main attraction for most of the visitors.

Small or long beaches surrounded by thick vegetation, strong waves or a bay with calm waters and endless coconut groves…all these attributes can be used to describe the sandy stretches framing Itacaré. Most of the beaches are deserted, such as Itacarézinho, regarded as one of the most exotic in the region.

There you will also find a charming resort, the Txai ( http://www.txai.com.br/ ) which besides being one of the loveliest and best designed hotels in Bahia, with luxurious installations, has a spa called Shamash, which means “forest medicine”. Here, leisure goes way beyond the excellent cuisine and the soft touch of Egyptian cotton sheets.