Uxua hotel in Trancoso, Bahia: photos of the Casa Seu João "suite"

The small and exclusive Uxua hotel in Trancoso isn't news to readers of this blog: I've written about it before, here. As the press release explains, "UXUA (pronounced ooh-shoo-ah) is a tropical utopia composed of nine unique houses offering total privacy with the added comfort of five-star hotel services. This stunning and unique destination enjoyed a May 2009 grand opening and has already hosted the likes of 11 world-famous supermodels and photographer Terry Richardson during the 2010 Pirelli Calendar shoot, as well as well-known Brazilian socialites and celebs.

UXUA, which in local native Pataxó Indian language means marvelous, is under the ownership and direction of long-time Diesel Creative Director Wilbert Das who realized the project as a tribute to the area of southern Bahia which he loves. Over three years Wilbert tapped Colonial, indigenous, and Afro-Bahian histories, arts and customs, and collaborated with local artisans using traditional building methods and recycled materials."

I just received some amazing pictures of one of its "casas", or suites - the Casa Seu João - which made me want to hop on a plane and just go. Be in Trancoso. Wake up facing the Quadrado (the town green). It's got to be my favourite spot in the world!

The Casa São João is one of a few original fisherman's houses which were bought and renovated by owner Wilbert Das. As the press release puts it, "accommodations at UXUA are found in nine extraordinary casas, each exquisitely outfitted with all of the accoutrements and special services that bring the property to the five-star level. Each has an indoor / outdoor living room, a full gourmet kitchen and sumptuous bedrooms (1-3 depending on the casa) with ensuite bath."

Well, the Casa Seu João, specifically, is exactly what the doctor ordered. It feels like a private beach house, with rustic armoires:



And a tub with a faucet fashioned out of a reclaimed tree branch:


Trancoso being warm year-round, there's not much need for walls:




I especially love the super cute and rustic kitchen:


Above the canopied bed, wooden shingles:



The bed faces the casa's private pool and garden:



Where there's a table for al fresco brunches:


And a pool all your own:



And right next to it, a daybed for lazy post-beach naps:




And, last but not least, an outdoor shower disguised as a tree trunk:



Rates per casa, per night start from $541 during low season (March through November) and $706 during high season (December through February).

Guests fly into São Paulo, Salvador, or Rio, and connect via numerous national and international airlines with multiple direct daily flights to Porto Seguro, a 1hr. cab ride from Trancoso and UXUA.

UXUA Casa Hotel: www.uxua.com. tel. +55 73 3668-2277

Photos: Fernando Lombardi

And more Trancoso on this blog:

1. Uxua, the newest luxury boutique hotel in Trancoso
2. Jacaré do Brasil: my favourite Trancoso pousada
3. A complete listing of hotels and pousadas that I recommend
4. Terravista: one of the world's most beautiful golf courses
5. Trancoso: all the best restaurants
6. Trancoso and Espelho: top 5 things to do
7. A slideshow of my favourite Trancoso photos
8. Tauana hotel, in Corumbau, South of Trancoso

My favourite Trancoso hotel: Jacaré do Brasil Casas

I said it above and repeat it here: there's no better place to stay in Trancoso than the mini-hotel Jacaré do Brasil casas, which opened in December 2007. Some would disagree, of course. What about the famous Estrela d'Água? What about the new Club Med?"

Well, the best hotel for me might not be the best hotel for the next person. I happen to love being near the action. Which means I like to stay at or right off the Quadrado. Both Estrela d'Água and Club Med are quite far, and you'll need to rent a car or catch a lot of taxis if you want to go out to dinner. Club Med isn't even considered Trancoso, but rather, falls within the territory of the next town to the North, called Arraial d'Ajuda. Thanks, but no thanks.

I'd MUCH rather be by the Quadrado. I love its unique vibe, its candy-coloured houses, the late afternoon soccer matches, the modest little church framed by the sea below...

Jacaré do Brasil casas has an unbeatable location, right next to the church, with amazing sea views. It's made up of only five "casas", and number 5, with the largest deck and best view, is the top pick.

Designer-to-the-stars Sig Bergamin did the décor and hit bullseye. Reclaimed palm trunks were turned into tiles which double as headboards, lamps are made of local wicker, and, throughout, flooring is a simple yet beautiful okre-tinted cement, waxed to a smooth sheen.

Owner is Fernando Droghetti (a.k.a. Jacaré), who recently left São Paulo to run the pousada full-time. ,

Each casa has its own kitchen, where a maid will prepare the guest's breakfast.

The only non-rustic touches are the must-have flatscreen TVs and portable phones that double as cells.

Jacaré do Brasil Casas: Quadrado, Trancoso, tel. (55-73) 3668-1470, reservas@jacaredobrasil.com.br

Trancoso, in Bahia: beach, parties and glam

Every holiday weekend the Porto Seguro airport in Brazil’s sunny Bahia state is a hive of activity as São Paulo’s gliteratti flock en masse – many by private jet - to nearby Trancoso, which has gone from sleepy fishing village to the country’s most glam and exclusive beach destination. Big-name musicians and fashion types are often spotted walking the soft-sand beach by day, and by night, mingling at the open-air restaurants like the always lively Capim Santo (Praça do Beco, 55, tel. 55-73-3668-1122) and lantern-lit lounges which will soon outnumber the charming native-run fish houses. On a bluff overlooking the sea, the stylishly restored candy-colored colonial houses that ring the grassy main square (at right) sell everything from signature jewelry by Syomara Crespi (Praça São João, 78, tel. 55-73-3668-1814) to designer beachwear and jeans flown in from São Paulo at Etnia (Praça São João, 33, 55-73-3668-1669). Yet despite the hype Trancoso remains blissfully quaint, tranquil and free of crowds – at least for now.

Here is a comprehensive listing of hotels and pousadas:

Gorgeous mansion for rent in the Terravista gated development

While Trancoso has dozens of small pousadas - or inns - many in-the-know paulistas prefer renting luxury homes so they can have a full staff at their service and lots of room to entertain. One of the most gorgeous houses I've ever seen in Trancoso, in the Terravista gated development, is often up for rent. Overlooking the eponymous golf course, the house has a wopping 6 bedrooms, decorated with colonial-style furniture and bird prints with the help of neighbour and friend Sig Bergamin, one of Brazil's top interior designers. The mansion keeps it casual with whitewashed walls and boasts a beautifully landscaped inner courtyard. Wide verandahs with plus patio furniture face the gardens and pool.
For prices and more information, call (55-11) 3889-0019





Jacaré do Brasil
Pça. São João, 9 (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3081-6109
Best location at the oceanside edge of the Quadrado, best ocean views, best vibe. Only a few rooms, all with their own kitchen. Incredible design. Absolutely unbeatable.
To read a full post about this pousada and to see photos, please click here.

Uxua
Just opened, also at Praça São João, which is the Quadrado's official name.
To read a full post on it click here.

Pousada Estrela d'Água
Estrada do Arraial (Praia dos Nativos), 1,5 km
Tel. (55-73)3668-1030

By far the best-known pousada of all, it's also a favourite beach hangout for Brazilian socialites: the beach bar serves food and drinks on the beach (above). The pool area is reserved for guests only (below). The hotel is a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux association.


Pousada Etnia
Rua Principal
Tel. (55-73)3668-1137
The location is far from perfect: it's on a busy and unattractive section of the cobbled main thoroughfare. But once inside it becomes clear why this is a favourite of Europeans: the Italian owners have designed each bungalow in a different theme, to stunning effect. Breakfast is served on a breezy pavillion overlooking the pool and gardens.

El Gordo Pousada

Praça S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1193
The Achiles heel of this overpriced pousada is the fact that its pool (at left) is crammed between the restaurant-lounge (shown below) and the reception, offering zero privacy to sunbathing guests. Great location, spacious rooms, tastefully decorated.

Mata N'ativa Pousada
Estr. do Arraial (Praia dos Nativos)
Cute pousada very near the Nativos beach (not the best beach). Down a steep hill - hence walking distance - from the Quadrado.
Tel. (55-73)3668-1830


Pousada Capim Santo
Rua do Beco, Pça. S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1122
Where I always stay. Love the airy bathrooms (at left). Enough said.


Hotel da Praça
Pça. S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-2121
Lovely airy lounge area and restaurant facing lush gardens make up (almost) for the cramped rooms and lack of pool. Great location, right on the Quadrado.

Club Med
Fazenda Taípe, Estrada Municipal, km 18 (Praia de Taípe), 8 km
Tel. (55-73)3575-8400
This is actually not in Trancoso, but a bit North of it, in Arraial d'Ajuda. The pros are the unbeatable infrastructure (especially for families) and the Terravista golf. The cons are being isolated and far from the action of the Quadrado, which is a 20 minute cab ride away, and having to walk down a million steps to the beach, since the hotel sits on a high bluff (photo below).



Puerto Bananas, a.k.a. Porto Bananas
Quadrado, Tel. (55-73) 3668-1017
Cute little pousada right on the Quadrado and next door to Cacau, one of the better restaurants of Trancoso. No pool, but lots of gardens. Best rooms are on the second floor of the bungalows - airier, better view, less noise. Very popular with the São Paulo crowd.


Villas de Trancoso
Estr. do Arraial (Praia dos Nativos), 2 km
Tel. (55-73)3668-1151
Owned by an American and very pricey.

Bahia Bonita Club
Rio Verde beach, Tel. (55-73) 3668-1565
Set right on the best beach there is, so perfect for those who like to lounge by the sea all day long. Great feel, thanks to, among other things, full integration with the surrounding greenery plus a "floorless" lounge area set right on the sand. Some suites have A/C, others use fans and ocean breezes for cooling. During the high season (Christmas until after Carnival) the beach turns into a "beach club", serving pricey food and drinks and playing ounge music.


Pousada Calypso
Parque Municipal
Tel. (55-73)3668-1113


Pousada Mundo Verde
R. do Telégrafo, 43
Tel. (55-73)3668-1279
Slightly tacky for my taste, but very clean and proper little rooms with balconies. The pool (at right) has ugly plastic chaises but gorgeous views of the sea below. Secluded and quiet yet only a 5-minute walk from the Quadrado.

Pousada Encantada
R. Joao Vieira de Jesus
Tel. (55-73)3668-2024


Pousada Ramona
Rua Jovelino Rodrigues Vieira, 100
Tel. (55-73)3668-1103


Café Esmeralda
Praça S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1527

Casa Itália
Alameda dos Colibris
Tel. (55-73)3668-1062
Small pool, lush tropical gardens, only half a km from the Quadrado.


Pousada do Bosque
Rua Bom Jesus (Caminho da Praia)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1040


Pousada Hibisco
Rua Bom Jesus
Tel. (55-73)3668-1117


Pousada Jardim das Margaridas
R. Jovelino Rodrigues Vieira, 230
Tel. (55-73)3668-1108


Pousada Quarto Crescente
R. Principal
Tel. (55-73)3668-1014


Pousada Som do Mar
Estr. do Arraial (Praia dos Nativos), 1 km
Tel. (55-73)3668-1812
The location, right by the Nativos beach, is not great.