Best restaurants in Trancoso by Wilbert Das, owner of Uxua Casa Hotel

Photo: Fernando Lombardi

Wilbert Das, who retired on December 31 from his longtime position as Diesel's creative director, owns one of the hippest little hotels in Trancoso, Brazil's glammest beach destination: the Uxua Casa Hotel (pictured above).

He spends good part of the year in Trancoso and he wrote a great list of restaurant recommendations for the guests of his hotel, which I am now sharing here:

Trancoso dining by Uxua's Wilbert Das

As tiny as Trancoso appears to be, it offer a tremendous variety of food, running the gamut from salt-of-the-earth Bahian home cooking to the freshest sushi.

Of course, local chefs are always available for preparing catered meals in each UXUA casa.

LAILA ADIPE ASSEF BISTRO
This inviting dining room (which resembles a living room) features Laila’s tasty home cooking – and a passel of guest chefs over the course of the year.

MARITACA
A Trancoso hot spot offers informal pizzas, risottos and anything else that is easy to eat, plus a well-regarded wine list.

CACAU
Take Bahia, add a dash of contemporary sophistication, and you get this intimate dinner spot, set in a garden beside the historic Quadrado.

SABOR DA BAHIA
One of the first restaurants you’ll find when you enter the Quadrado, Sabor Da Bahia serves a mouthwatering Brazilian ‘Picanha’ with toasted vegetables, pineapple and french fries. Owned by a native family, the restaurant also serves traditional Bahian food and it opens for breakfast, serving home-made yoghurt at its open air tables.

CAPIM SANTO
This mix of trendy with traditional is among the oldest in town and has a creative menu signed by well-known chef Sandra Marques.

SUSHI TRANCOSO
Believe it or not, Japanese raw fish has long been popular in this remote fishing village – and here it’s served a mere 1-minute walk from the Quadrado.

MASALA
Fusion Asian cuisine, here? Why, of course, at this popular spot in the heart of Trancoso’s nightlife and only a two-minute walk from the Quadrado.

CANTINHO DOCE
Traditional Bahian cuisine rules at this open-air restaurant facing the church. Remember to leave room for the desserts, which are renowned throughout the village.

RESTAURANTE DA SILVANA
Set on the people-watching-conducive Quadrado, this restaurant features homestyle cooking a la Silvana, privy to the “original secrets” of Bahian cuisine.

EL GORDO
This culinary stunner is set on a cliff facing the ocean and is perfect for proposals, romance and anything else in need of a dose of drama. Includes a sushi bar and is sister restaurant of two well-regarded spots in the Bario Alto of Lisbon.

SABOR DO MUNDO
A mélange of European and Asian cuisine, thanks to the Dutch chef who has set up shop here in a bid to explore life in rural Brazil.

IL MERCATO
This Italian trattoria-slash-antiques shop has ocean views and a convenient location on the right side of the Quadrado.



PIZZOKERO
2 minutes walk from the Quadrado, this bar and restaurant is owned by an Italian Rasta who has been living in Bahia for nearly twenty years. Serving great pizzas and general Italian food, there is also a snooker table on the top floor. And on Tuesday and Saturday, live music make it the meeting point of the town.

LA NO DOM
Every beach village in the world has a famous sandwich place. In Trancoso it is LA NO DOM. Dom is the name of the guy who prepares tasteful pita-bread sandwiches with his famous eggplant sauce for over 15 years.

BEACH BARS

Life is not food alone. The beaches are dotted with places at which to enjoy the perfect sundowner.

UXUA PRAIA BAR (below)
UXUA’s own beach bar boasts a picturesque setting between the Trancoso River and Atlantic Ocean, is the only bar on Praia da Barra, and wears its green heart on its sleeve (it’s made partly from rebuilt fishing boats found on the property).

CABANA DO ANDREA
The brainchild of Andrea, an Italian native who came to Brazil in 1999, this bar is a true hybrid. Set on Coqueiros beach and marked by a Sardinian flag on the top, it also serves up deliciously authentic pizzas and fresh local fish.

PE NA PRAIA
Located on Rio Verde beach, this bar is frequented by the young and beautiful and is only 1.7 km from the Quadrado.

TOSTEX
Where would a beach town, even a remote one, be without a local nighttime hotspot? This club fits that description, with its dance music, special summer parties and visits from world-famous DJs.

Here, an amazing slideshow of photos by Fernando Lombardi of the Uxua Casa Hotel.

And more Trancoso on this blog:

1. Uxua, the newest luxury boutique hotel in Trancoso
2. Uxua's Casa Seu João: see photos
3. 2010 Pirelli calendar is photographed by Terry Richardson at the Uxua
4. Jacaré do Brasil: my favourite Trancoso pousada
5. A complete listing of hotels and pousadas that I recommend
6. Terravista: one of the world's most beautiful golf courses
7. Trancoso: all the best restaurants
8. Trancoso and Espelho: top 5 things to do
9. A slideshow of my favourite Trancoso photos
10. Tauana hotel, in Corumbau, South of Trancoso

A slideshow of Trancoso photos... best place in Bahia

Here's a link to my set of photos on Flickr.

Trancoso, Bahia: index of posts, by subject

1. Uxua, a new luxury boutique hotel in Trancoso
2. Uxua's Casa Seu João: see photos
   
3. Jacaré do Brasil: my favourite Trancoso pousada
4. A complete listing of hotels and pousadas that I recommend
5. Terravista: one of the world's most beautiful golf courses
6. Trancoso: all the best restaurants
7. Trancoso and Espelho: top 5 things to do
8. A slideshow of my favourite Trancoso photos
9. Tauana hotel, in Corumbau, South of Trancoso
   

Trancoso and Espelho, in Bahia: top 5 things to do

This top-five list is not meant for first-timers, since it doesn't include the obvious must-sees of Trancoso and Espelho, such as the beaches themselves or a stroll through the Quadrado for window shopping followed by drinks and/or dinner. Rather, this is a very personal list of the things I love to do when I'm there...

1- Spend a day fishing aboard the boat owned by local legend Calá
Calá is the legendary hippie who moved from São Paulo to his private paradise at Espelho. A ceramist and designer of amazing talent, he owns a stunning farm-cum-boutique-inn at Espelho das Maravilhas that is called, fittingly, Fazenda Calá. Perched on a cliff overlooking the azure sea, the whitewashed "casas" are reminiscent of Mykonos, if it weren't for the greenery surrounding them. All is decorated very tastefully, and rustically. What few people know is that Calá's boat is available for rent even for non-guests. After a day of fishing, the group can eat their catch for a late, lazy lunch overlooking the sea - sunsets at Espelho reflect on the water in a myriad colours and are spectacular, hence the name Espelho das Maravilhas, or Mirror of Marvels. The rental costs a mere 250 reais plus the cost of the meal, which is optional.



When you call, ask to speak to Anderson.
Fazenda Calá: tel.(55-73) 3668-5112

2- Dinner at Il Mercato
If there are at least ten choices of places to eat on the Quadrado, Il Mercato is certainly the one with the best ambiance. A small façade leads to an immense interior on descending levels, with, at the end, an open lounge with day beds and gorgeous sea views.





Lamb risotto is nicely al dente, while the caprese salad is equally satisfying. But let's be honest: this isn't top-rate Italian food. But in this kind of magical, lantern-lit setting, who cares?
Il Mercato: Tel. (55-73) 3668-2250

3- Dinner at Maritaca
During high-season, which ends after Carnival, dining at Maritaca feels like being in a posh São Paulo restaurant. Kaftan and Havaianas-clad beauties air-kiss and gossip and half the place seems to know the other half - a bit of a club, if you get me. However, even first-timers who don't know a soul will appreciate the impeccable pizzas, the ice-cold chopps and the warm, comfortable room, with fans humming and delightful pizza aromas wafting from the wood-fired oven.



Rua Carlos Alberto Parracho, tel. (55-73) 3668-1258

4 - A beer and an empadinha at Capim Santo
I love Capim - a Trancoso classic which started as a restaurant and grew to be a top-notch pousada. My favourite thing about it is the early evening drink I like to have by the pool. Usually, cold beer with a portion of empadinhas, delicious Brazilian pastries filled with shrimp or heart of palm. It's right off the Quadrado and the owners Nando and Sandra are absolutely delightful hosts.
Tel. (55-73) 3668-1122


5 - Pull an all-nighter
You don't know Trancoso until you pull your first all-nighter. New Year's eve is a good time to start, but throughout the high season great little parties happen here and there, unofficially, broadcasted only by word-of-mouth. The receptionist at your pousada won't know about them: you'll just have to get to know a few of the right people...

Trancoso, in Bahia: the best restaurants

Il Mercato - Restaurant with the best ambiance

Right smack in the middle of the famed Quadrado - Trancoso's main square - Il Mercato is the prettiest restaurant in town. A tiny façade hides a sprawling multi-level interior, on levels descending towards the sea. The different rooms are filled with oversize pillows and Moroccan lanterns. The open patio at the end is the best spot for breezy, boozy dinners, and has three niches separated by billowy curtains. Lamb risotto is cooked to al dente perfection, while the Caprese fetuccini, crowned with plump, soft cubes of buffalo mozzarella, is one of the top sellers.
Tel. (073) 2668-2250

Capim Santo
Rua do Beco, next to the Quadrado
Tel. (55-73)3668-1122
One of the first restaurants of Trancoso, this classic sits at the entrance of the eponymous pousada and is a perennial favorite. It specializes in fish and seafood with typically Brazilian ingredients, such as mango, coconut and farofa. The best tables are the outdoor ones.

Silvana
Praça S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1049
Right on the Quadrado, Silvana’s tables on the grass are perfect for people watching. Simple restaurant serving huge moquecas which are considered the best in town, and other hearty fish and seafood dishes.

El Gordo
Praça S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1193

Hip and loungey restaurant serving pricey and ambitious food. Tables have ocen views and are squeezed on a patio next to this pousada’s pool. Menu is out of touch with the Trancoso vibe: dishes include rack of lamb with Dijon and honey sauce (65 reais), grilled salmon (55 reais), duck breast with caramelized apple (40 reais), risotto with lobster and aspargus (60 reais). Note: dishes and prices were accurate in February of 2008 and may have changed.

Maritaca
Rua Carlos Alberto Parracho
Tel. (55-73)3668-1258
Beautiful pizzeria with high ceilings and a wood-fired oven in the center of the room. Terracota roof tiles and bird prints on the wall give it a colonial feel. Frequented by posh paulistas and cariocas who flock here to see and be seen during high season. Great thin-crust pizzas – make sure to try the one topped with arugula, a specialty. Best draft beer in town.


Masala
Rua do Telégrafo
Tel. (55-73)3668-1872

Portinha
Praça S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1054
The place to go when in a hurry or very hungry. A small colonial house on the quadrado has been converted into this hugely popular restaurant where an obscene amount of food is placed on a buffet and sold “por quilo”, or by weight. The typically Brazilian dishes – think rice, beans, farofa, picadinho, etc. – are quite good considering they sit on a hot buffet for hours. A true bargain.

Pé na Praia
My absolute favourite place to eat on the beach in Trancoso. It doesn't really have an address. Simply walk down from the Quadrado to the beach and when you hit the sand turn right and walk for about 30 minutes until you're at the end of the praia do Rio Verde. Or, if you're lazy, get in a cab and say "eu vou no Peh na Praia, no rio Verde". Done.
There, you can grab a wooden table right on the sand, or a hammock. Service is fast and efficient, and the beer always served perfectly chilled. Great rice and beans, great chicken and beef skewers.


O Cacau
Praça S. João (Quadrado)
Tel. (55-73)3668-1266
Very famous restaurant with pleasant tropical-looking ambiance. Overpriced and overrated in my opinion. Annoyingly innefficient service.