Apr 5, 2009

Dona Carolina: hotel-fazenda (farm hotel) in São Paulo state, by Lea Dorf



When I had a baby and, suddenly, husband + wife turned into couple + kid, weekends at farm hotels began to make a lot of sense. Nothing could be more kid-friendly. Animals. Pool. Game playing. Toys. Playground. Pond. What else could we want?



Well, actually, we want to feel pampered ourselves... That's why the ideal hotel-fazenda needs to also offer comfort, charm and good food.
Recently, I tried out one of the many great hotéis-fazenda in São Paulo state: the Fazenda Dona Carolina.



It's an ancient coffee plantation, transformed into a country inn nearly 20 years ago. It's charming, and the rooms are comfortable but it seems to have stalled in time in terms of service. The food is reminiscent of an all-you-can-eat buffet. The pool, too small for the crowds. The activities stop at horseback riding and watching the cow milkings.



Grown-ups can relax at the bare-bones spa, hike the nearby trails or go visit historic sites, such as this old wall built with mud and branches.

But that's it. Would I go back? Maybe, but only for a day or two. To get a breath of fresh air before hurrying back to São Paulo for a good night out!

Fazenda Dona Carolina
Turn off at km 39,5 of the SP-063 road (on the way to Bragança Paulista), then drive another 22 km. Near the town of Itapira
Tel: (55-11)4534-9100






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Apr 4, 2009

São Paulo’s Baixo Augusta district is booming, and the New York Times is on it, thanks to Seth Kugel




Ever since New York journalist Seth Kugel moved to São Paulo, a few months ago, the already excellent coverage by The New York Times of the city went up yet another notch. Yesterday’s NYT has a story by Seth that is very hot.

Only now are Brazilian publications waking up to what’s happening in the so-called Baixo Augusta – a once-seedy part of Augusta street and surrounding blocks which is seeing boom times – yet The New York Times is already on it. Nice. Seth’s piece maps it all out.

As Seth points out, “The default night life areas in São Paulo’s southwest zone — Itaim Bibi, for the clean-cut moneyed crowd and Vila Madalena, where a (slightly) more bohemian set mobs the open-air bars — are still going strong. But a revival is under way closer to the city center, and more specifically, the “bad” side of Avenida Paulista, the active artery that separates downtown from upscale neighborhoods in the city’s southwest zone.That’s especially true along Rua Augusta and the two parallel avenues that flank it, Rua Bela Cintra and Rua Frei Caneca — an area that is increasingly being referred to as Baixo Augusta.”

As usual, the piece comes with an interactive map and gorgeous photography by Lalo de Almeida.


Spot on, Seth!

I went recently to Z Carniceria, one of the places Seth mentions, and loved the look of it. As the name suggests, it occupies and old butcher's. In renovating it, the owners uncovered old tiled walls and hooks where the meat used to hang from, which they've kept. The result is a bit spooky/Hannibal Lecter-like, but decidedly cool. Here are some pictures:









Z Carniceria
Rua Augusta, 934, tel. 55-11-2936-0934

Other places mentioned in The New York Times's piece on the Baixo Augusta:

Astronete Rua Matias Aires, 183-B; 55-11-3151-4568

¡Exquisito!: Rua Bela Cintra, 532; 55-11-3151-4530

Geni: Rua Bela Cintra, 539; tel. 55-11-3129-9952

Mestiço Rua Fernando de Albuquerque, 277; tel. 55-11-3256-3165

Vegas Rua Augusta, 765; tel. 55-11-3231-3705;

Volt Rua Haddock Lobo, 40; tel. 55-11-2936-4041

A Loca Rua Frei Caneca, 916; tel. 55-11-3159-8889

O Pedaço de Pizza Rua Augusta, 1463; tel. 55-11-3285-2117

Sonique Rua Bela Cintra, 461; 55-11-2628-8707





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Apr 3, 2009

Triptyque, hottest architecture firm in Brazil, designs Farm's new São Paulo flagship



The May edition of Azure magazine just came out and it looks great. And... it has a piece about the very cool lowrise designed by Carol Bueno and her French partners at Triptyque written by... yours truly.


Here is what I said in the article, quoting from Azure:


"Green walls are all the rage worldwide and the design element du jour for any new fashion boutique cultivating a hip image. But nowhere do they seem more fitting than sprawling São Paulo, Brazil, a city where the concrete patchwork and the green sprouting on it and around it have always been forced to co-exist. Thick grasses line congested freeways, mowed half as often as they should. Rainstorms feed vines that crawl and grip graffiti–covered walls enclosing empty lots. At every crack on the sidewalk a wisp of green seems to thrive.

Young architecture firm Triptyque, with offices in Paris and São Paulo, turned this otherwise weedy unkeptness into the strongpoint of their latest project. The walls of Harmonia 57, a three-story lowrise in Vila Madalena, São Paulo’s artsy and bohemian district, are lined with a carefully-edited mosaic of ferns, vines and grasses that have been inserted into earth-filled holes. Rainwater is collected in cylindrical tanks that sit on the ground floor, and is then fed through electric-yellow pipes that run along the walls, dotted with sprinklers that spray a water mist at even intervals. It’s as if the guts of the building were turned inside out, like a living and sweating organism with pulsating tubular arteries and ever-changing green skin.



The foursome behind the project - Grégory Bousquet, Olivier Raffaelli and Guillaume Sibaud from France, and Brazilian Carolina Bueno - see it as “brutish” and as “having a primitive diselegance”. Lines are simple: two assymetrical gray cubes – one raised on pillars, the other not – are linked by a wood and iron footbridge at each story. Atop the back cube, a small observation room affording great views over the concrete jumble resembles a birdhouse. Side walls are near windowless, light flooding in through the street-facing glass-covered walls. Four square and oversize brises-soleils made of sustainable eucalyptus trunks, remotely controlled, can be shut to shield the glassed-in façade from the street. A narrow iron ramp gives access to the underground parking lot, whose dark and square entryway seems to want to swallow the cars whole.



In sharp contrast to the rough cement exterior, interiors are white and stark and open onto square terrasses with wooden decks. Originally designed to house 3 to 6 small offices or studios, Harmonia 57 (named after the actual municipal address) was bought in whole by Farm, a Rio-based fashion brand. Interiors now boast a colourful, slightly kitschy décor that plays with the building’s greenness: floors lined with astro-turf, changing rooms built out of raw wood planks, clothes hanging on the irrigation tubes and filling street-market wooden crates, etc.


The project was featured last year at the Architecture Biennale in Venice, as part of the French pavilion, whose theme was generosity towards the city. How might it be generous? “The building is wide open to those who walk by it, it gives pleasure in its interaction with nature”, say the partners. “This is not architecture that degrades as time goes by, but rather, it will grow and evolve and become more and more exuberant and green with the passing of the years”.



It is not, they are quick to note, a green building in the wider sense of the term. For example, water is pushed through the exterior tubular network by regular electric pumps (the solar panels alternative was less cost-effective, they explain). “Rather than being seen as eco-frienly, we are more interested in exploring the freedom that comes with building in São Paulo, a city that is still growing”, say the architects, who moved there in 2000, and fly to France only when a new job beckons. “Whereas in Paris the focus is on renovating and restoring, here the possibilities are endless”.

Apr 1, 2009

Gay Talese will be at the top literary event hosted in July at the seaside colonial village of Paraty


Photo: Nelson Godoy


Paraty, the sleepy colonial village on the coast between Rio and São Paulo, is known for its bumpy cobbled streets, whitewashed colonial façades with colorful trims and, more recently, for hosting one of the world's most important literary events.


The FLIP - Festa Literária Internacional de Paraty - is now in its 7th edition. The event - or party, more befitting of its name - opens on Wednesday, July 1st and goes on until Sunday, July 5th. The FLIP will pay tribute to the writer Manuel Bandeira (1886-1968), a native of Pernambuco state. Bandeira’s poetry ranks high in the Brazilian literary canon.

Today it was confirmed that Gay Talese, 77, one of the new journalism greats, will be in attendance. Other renowned writers who have RSVP'd include António Lobo Antunes, Carlos Fuentes, Anne Enright and Atiq Rahimi. Artist and photographer Sophie Calle and literary critics Catherine Millet and Alex Ross are also expected to go. Good to hear.

Similar to previous editions, next July the literary shindig will attract a lot of attention to Paraty itself, which was, for far too long, a hidden gem that attracted very few foreign tourists. Paraty was declared a world heritage site in 1958. Its original architecture has been kept intact to an amazing extent: most houses still look the same as they did around the time the city was founded in the 16th century. Visitors have lots to see, including an old jail, a fort, the pretty and tranquil bay, a myriad shops selling hand-made souvenirs and crafts, and, most of all, imposing colonial churches. Paraty was an important hub during the colonial period. In its heyday, in the 18th Century, Paraty was a rich town whose port served to ship massive quantities of gold extracted from the mines of Minas Gerais state (and as a port, it therefore follows that its beaches aren't great for swimming, even if today most boats are either speedboats or small fishing boats). The port lost importance with the laying of the railroad between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro at the end of the 19th Century, and the city then started a slow but steady decline, which the FLIP has single-handedly halted.

The website of the FLIP party conveniently lists Paraty's hotels and pousadas. But beware: every single hotel and pousada is included, some of them not exactly four or five-star level. I've edited the list down to a few that I can recommend:

HOTELS AND POUSADAS IN THE OLD DOWNTOWN


Aconchego - Rua Domingos Gonçalves da Abreu, 1.
Tels.: (24) 3371 1598 or (24) 3371 1273.
E-mail: reservas@aconchegohotel.com.br.
33 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 190-370.
Low season rates: R$ 105-215.
In-room services: AC, ceiling fan, TV, minibar, safe deposit at reception, phone. Hotel services: breakfast, pool, bar, laundry, car park, restaurant.

Arte Urquijo - Rua Dona Geralda, 79.
Tel.: (24) 3371 1362.
E-mail: urquijo@terra.com.br.
6 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 290-310.
Low season rates: R$ 290-310.
In-room services: AC, minibar, terrace.
Hotel services: breakfast, bar, car park, pool, reading room, art gallery, minilibrary.


Coxixo - Rua do Comércio, 362.
Tels.: (24) 3371 1460 or (24) 3371 8327.
E-mail: hcoxixo@terra.com.br.
33 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 210-330.
Low season rates: R$ 140-220.
In-room services: AC, ceiling fan, TV, minibar, safe deposit, blow dryer.
Hotel services: breakfast, pool, sauna, bar, TV lounge, games room, car park.

Pousada Marquesa - Rua Dona Geralda, 99.
Tels.: (24) 3371 1299 or (24) 3371 1263.
E-mail: reservas@pousadamarquesa.com.br.
21 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 340-440.
Low season rates: R$ 300-400.
In-room services: AC, ceiling fan, TV, minibar, phone, hair-dryer.
Hotel services: breakfast, pool, sauna, TV lounge, games room, car park.

Ouro - Rua Doutor Pereira, 145.
Tel.: (24) 3371 4300.
E-mail: reservas@pousadaouro.com.br.
26 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 176-363.
Low season rates: R$ 159-327.
In-room services: AC, TV, minibar, phone, safe deposit.
Hotel services: breakfast, pool, sauna, Turkish bath, bar, gym, car park, internet access.

Pardieiro - Rua do Comércio, 74.
Tel.: (24) 3371 1370.
E-mail: pp@pousadapardieiro.com.br.
27 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 310-390.
Low season rates: R$ 230-290
Hotel services: breakfast, pool, 2 saunas, games room, reading room.

Pousada Porto Imperial - Rua Tenente Francisco Antônio
Tel.: (24) 3371 2323.
E-mail: reservas@pousadaportoimperial.com.br.
44 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 340-495.
Low season rates: R$ 240-425.
In-room services: AC, cable TV, minibar, safe deposit, hair-dryer.
Hotel services: reading room, pool/jacuzzi, sauna, games room, gardens.

Sandi - Largo do Rosário, 1.
Tels.: (24) 3371 2100 or (11) 3864 9111.
E-mail: contatos@pousadadosandi.com.br.
26 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 350-650.
Low season rates: R$ 350-650.
In-room services: digital AC, cable TV/DVD, king size bed, blow dryer, safe deposit, minibar.
Hotel services: breakfast, room service, pool & bar, saunas, business centre, games room, pub, internet access, massage room, TV/DVD lounge, fitness centre, restaurant, car park.

Solar dos Gerânios - Praça da Matriz, 2.
Tel.: (24) 3371 1550.
9 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 70-90.
Low season rates: R$ 50-70.
In-room services: ceiling fan.
Hotel services: breakfast.

TWO OPTIONS OUTSIDE THE OLD DOWNTOWN:

Santa Clara Hotel - Rodovia Rio-Santos, km 563. Corumbê.
Tel.: (24) 3371 8900.
E-mail: santaclara@santaclarahotel.com.br.
49 rooms.
High season rates: R$ 554-770.
Low season rates: R$ 387-538.
In-room services: balcony, AC, cable TV, safe deposit, minibar.
Hotel services: breakfast, pool, sauna, Japanese hot tub (ofuro), jacuzzi, bar, restaurant, games parlour, reading room, internet parlour, pier, helipad, car park.


Le Gite D’Indaiatiba - Rodovia Rio-Santos, km 558. Graúna.
Tels.: (24) 9999 9923 or (24) 3371 7174.
E-mail: contato@legitedindaiatiba.com.br.
3 bungalows, 2 suites.
High season rates: bungalows R$ 200, suites R$ 150.
Low season rates: bungalows R$ 150, suites R$ 120.
In-room services: ceiling fan, fireplace.
Hotel services: breakfast, restaurant, spring water swimming pool, sauna, helipad, car park, forest trails, waterfall.

Toca do Marlin hotel, in Southern Bahia: high luxury and horseback riding

Photos: courtesy of Toca do Marlin


Bahia state, the best in Brazil for those looking for sun, heat, beach, great food and great music, has no shortage of luxury hotels. Most of the best beach inns of Brazil are located along its beautiful palm-studded coastline (and mainly around Trancoso and Itacare).

One of these luxury hotels stands out from the rest. It offers an unusual combination of beach and country life. The Toca do Marlin hotel has a mere ten suites, two of them measuring 45 square meters, and the other eight a whopping 85 m². All face a pristine beach and come equipped with luxuries rarely seen in these parts, such as king beds with mattresses adjustable by remote control, for example. Wireless internet access? Check. Cotton sheets with high-thread count? Check. The place has got all those de rigueur luxuries of a city hotel, although it's hidden away on an isolated piece of coastline North of the town of Porto Seguro (serviced by all Brazilian airlines).

But rather than being just one more place advertising that same-ol' beautiful-luxury-bungalow-on-the-beach, Toca do Marlin has a trump card: gorgeous andalucean horses. They're kept at the owners' nearby stables. Guests can gallop on horseback down the beach, or merely watch the handlers do it (these horses are known for their beautiful ballet-like moves).


The hotel is owned by Bennett Nisencwajg, a paulista of British descent, and his wife Lucia, an accomplished chef who trained at the Cordon Bleu school. She watches over the restaurant, where tables are set with fine porcelain, and silverware and crystal glassed from Christofle.


Toca do Marlin: Santo André, Km. 40,5, Santa Cruz de Cabrália, tel. (73) 3671-5041

Mar 30, 2009

Daslu megastore in São Paulo and owner Eliana Tranchesi’s legal troubles




Quick post to let you know that the cover story of this week’s Veja – the Time magazine of Brazil – is Eliana Tranchesi’s arrest and legal troubles. In the feature story we find out, among other things:

  • Daslu occupies 20 000 square meters of posh floorspace
  • Daslu sells 333 national and international brands, like Chanel, Prada and Louis Vuitton
  • The store has a champagne bar and a space leased out for parties
  • Annual sales dropped from 240 million reais (2005) to 160 million reais (2006) after Eliana Tranchesi’s first arrest in '05, but had since been climbing back up.
  • Eliana hosted Valentino and Tom Ford in their recent visits to Brazil.
  • Eliana has been condemned to 94 years in prison but the legal process might take more than 10 years to be resolved and chances are the sentence will be greatly reduced or even eliminated in the meantime.
For the full story, in Portuguese, click here.