Barbacoa restaurants in São Paulo and Salvador now serve fish from the Amazon

Pirarucu with mandioquinha purée


Ever wonder what it's like to eat a fish from the Amazon? Now, it's becoming easier to do so, since restaurants in bigger cities, like Rio and São Paulo, have finally started to offer Amazonian fishes like pirarucu, filhote and tucunaré. Barbacoa, a great churrascaria (restaurant specializing in grilled meats) with outposts in Campinas, São Paulo and Salvador, is serving from now until April 4 a special menu featuring these fishes.

THE menu:

• RACK OF TAMBAQUI WITH SHRIMP AND RICE   R$ 61,80
• PIRARUCU WITH MANDIOQUINHA PUREE AND ARUGULA   R$ 56,90
• FILHOTE WITH GRILLED PLANTAIN AND CHIVES   R$ 58,40
• TUCUNARÉ WITH RICE, LEEK, BRAZIL NUT AND BIQUINHO PEPPER  R$ 62,50

Barbacoa  – D&D Shopping – São Paulo
Tel: 55 (11) 3043-9244

Barbacoa – Morumbi Shopping  – São Paulo
Tel: 55 (11) 5181-6898

Barbacoa – Shopping Parque Dom Pedro – Campinas
Av. Projetada Leste, 500
Tel. 55 (19) 3209-1641

Barbacoa – Salvador 
Av. Tancredo Neves, 909
Tel. 55 (71) 3342-4666

FERNANDO DE NORONHA: number one destination in Brazil

by Antonella Kann


The archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, with 17 km2, easily hooks anyone who has the faintest fantasy of what paradise looks like, and is anyone´s stuff of dreams with 15 paradisiacal beaches. Until 1938 it used to be a penal colony and now it´s a National Park submitted to the strict environmental rules of the IBAMA ( Instituto Brasileiro do Meio Ambiente ).

But tourism definitely is the main industry of the island. Most of its 3 thousands inhabitants, who originate from almost every state of Brazil and also from different other countries are busy doing business with tourists. But bear in mind that everything is a rip-off, mainly because except for home-made bread, all the goods are imported from the continent. There´s nothing to buy for R$ 1,00 ( U$ 0,35). Even a bottle of mineral water will cost R$ 2,50 (U$0,89), a pizza can reach R$ 30,00 (U$ 10,70) .

The sea is crystal-clear, there are natural pools, perfect aquariums with plenty of fishes to swim with, there is beauty and tranquility in every inch of nature and… there are the dolphins. Noronha´s warm tropical climate guarantees temperatures around 26 Celsius all year round, but with two distinguished periods – dry and rainy seasons. Best time is March, June, September, October and December (before New Year´s Eve): the weather is sunny, the sea is quite calm and the prices are lower than January, February and July ( school holidays). Avoid April by all means, as it rains steadily.

Bearing in mind that everything you are supposed to do is outdoors, the day must begins quite early. You can hike around the whole island in man-made trails along the coastline, framed between the sea and rocky landscape. Many people just rent a bike, a scooter or simply walk. Hitchhiking is also a regular practice. But take note: the most popular way to get moving around the island is with the buggy, – a typical convertible jeep with a VW engine – and the only type of car on the island. If you want to get intimate with Noronha ( which you MUST!), do not hesitate to rent one, even though the price is outrageous. But do ask your hotel for the car well in advance, or you´ll end up walking (and public transportation is quite inexistent). But watch out: although there is only one road, the local police considers applies the driving regulations of the continent. So expect to be urged to wear your seatbelts in the front (though in the back you are perched like a bird on a branch) or else...you risk a heavy fine.

With a map of the island, it´s really easy to get acquainted with all the beaches in a blink of an eye. Most of them are linked to each other through passes and trails, so consider walking, exploring three or four every day. Chances are that most of the time you´ll have a very large stretch of sand just to yourself. Pigs´Bay, between Sancho (considered to be the most beautiful in Brazil!) and Cacimba do Padre´s beaches will definitely cause an impression, even stronger if your glance is from the top of the cliff: it looks like a painting.

Although there are several little inns, refurbished bed& breakfast and simple accomodations around the island, those searching comfort and service should choose one of these two pousadas:
Pousada Maravilha www.pousadamaravilha.com.br . You can´t get better than that in a 5 star hotel on the continent. This establishment offers spacious and secluded bungalows, magnificient views over the Sueste Bay, plus sauna, a huge swimming pool and sophisticated restaurant to pamper its guests. Luxury guaranteed, although extremely pricey all year-round, even by international´s standards. Breakfast included and served in-room at no extra cost.

Offering much more flexibility of rates than Maravilha´s, Pousada Zé Maria www.pousadazemaria.com.br is the ideal place to stay with your family. The view to the Pico´s Mount is incredible and there´s the Conceição Beach ( think surf!) at the tip of your fingers. The food is reasonable and the owner a local character full of charm. The establishment is one of the oldest b&b of the island but has been refurbished and given an upgrade. Sauna & swimming pool with a view. Now almost all the 19 bungalows are air conditioned and have mini bar, cd player, and plasm TV. Ask for room 6 if you come with children, as you get two connected but independent rooms and a jacuzzi on the terrace with overwhelming view of the Pico´s Mount. Total privacy assured but be sure to make reservations way ahead.

The two hotels provide transportation to and from the airport, which is situated no more than a few minutes away. But do not bother about whatever noise can a nearby airport affect your vacation – there are only two flights a day, and depending on where you are standing, you don´ t even have to look at your watch: just by the sight of the plane approaching or leaving, you´ll know what time it is.

One last tip about the “Paradise Fee”: check www.noronha.com.br

Don´t forget to check this site, as you can fill in the “immigration” form (there´s an English version) through the web and print it. There´s an entry fee to pay, which you can do in a Brazilian bank, on the continent. It will save you time! The crowd at the airport is always a tantrum, as the only two daily flights leave and arrive almost at the same time (believe it or not!). When you are leaving, you must return part of the form so the authorities check if your stay is not overdue. And if it is, you´ll be charged double for each extra day you spent without previous authorization. Well, all this doesn´t enhance your fantasy about being in paradise, but once you get intimate with the place, there´s really nothing that will deceive you anymore.

Maní restaurant: one of São Paulo's best, serving contemporary cuisine

By Alexandra Forbes

This blog has talked about Maní restaurant before, on many occasions. But I never tire of repeating: this is a rare gem of a place, where the food is consistently great, and the ambience very cheery and bright. I love the fact that chefs Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo are almost always there, in the kitchen.

I had lunch there recently, and it started off on a high note: love the giant crunchy crackers, light as air, that comes with the warm buns and fine butter.



Excellent amuse bouche: an ultra-light tomato water "broth" with an intense tomato flavour, with pearls of burrata cheese (liquid inside), tomatillo and whisper-thin toasted bread.



I had one of Helena's signature dishes as an app: the fausse "feijoada":



Sliced pigs' trotters, super thin like a carpaccio, topped with encapsulated black bean stew (feijoada): little balls that explode in the mouth. Over that, the finest julinenne of fried kale, tiny orange segments. And on the side, a classic rendering of farofa, the toasted manioc flour that is the classic accompaniment of this dish.

My friend had an app that's new on the menu: foie gras bombons




Lovely contrast of the velvety foie and its gelatinous, fruity “envelope".


My main course, in comparison, seemed a tad too rustic and heavy: mandioquinha purée, butterflied shrimp and a large heap of mushrooms. On the side, a too-intense mushroom sauce. A bit disappointing.




My friend had a lovely passion fruit mousse for dessert - this is typical of São Paulo and I highly recommend it to those who've never tried it. Love the crunch of the seeds contrasting with the fatty smoothness of the mousse below.




I had to have her signature dessert, O Ovo, which is not only stunning but delicious. Pure chilled yolkiness in the center, and a cloud of coconut around it. Yum.




With coffee, Maní serves adorable little brigadeiros (chocolate balls rolled in sprinkles) which are a grown-up version of this comfort food classic. Très chic.




In other words: Maní continues to thrill, despite the occasional slip.

Maní: Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210, tel. (11) 3085-4148

Itacaré: surfers´paradise and eco-tourism par excellence!

the deserted beach of Itacarézinho

by Antonella Kann

Let´s continue talking about Bahia's paradisiacal beaches. Itacaré was rediscovered by hippies and surfers in the late 80´s and since then the range of open-air activities have been attracting enthusiasts for its perfect waves as well as nature worshipers.

Inhabited by the Tupiniquin Indians until the arrival of the Europeans in 1530, Itacaré reached its economic peak with the cultivation of cocoa beans. But, with the decline of this product, the place fell into complete isolation for centuries.

However, as many other idyllic havens, nowadays its white sandy beaches bring a flow of visitors from abroad, which means that in the bustling streets of the small village it´s common to hear foreign languages ranging from English to Norwegian, with a good sprinkling of French, German and Italian.

To meet the increasing demand, the hotel network has been upgraded, the restaurants have reviewed their menus and there´s a proliferation of specialized tour operators offering a wide range of open air activities and adventures.

Think anything from tree-climbing, canoeing and rafting, off-road trips, mountain biking, trekking, bathing in waterfalls, all part of extensive programs designed to get the adrenaline pumping. And, of course, there is surfing, which is the main attraction for most of the visitors.

Small or long beaches surrounded by thick vegetation, strong waves or a bay with calm waters and endless coconut groves…all these attributes can be used to describe the sandy stretches framing Itacaré. Most of the beaches are deserted, such as Itacarézinho, regarded as one of the most exotic in the region.

There you will also find a charming resort, the Txai ( http://www.txai.com.br/ ) which besides being one of the loveliest and best designed hotels in Bahia, with luxurious installations, has a spa called Shamash, which means “forest medicine”. Here, leisure goes way beyond the excellent cuisine and the soft touch of Egyptian cotton sheets.

DO LADO DE LÁ, in Aiuruoca, Minas Gerais, is the highest pousada in Brazil.

By Antonella Kann


Located in the state of Minas Gerais, at 1900 meters above sea level, Do Lado de Lá is the highest pousada in Brazil. And a haven for nature lovers. But don´t expect luxury or pampering: there´ll be neither in-room massage nor personal 24hrs butler in this rustic pousada.

You feel like you are on top of the world, surrounded by the Atlantic forest, waterfalls and vegetation. And that´s all the luxurious atmosphere of the Serra do Papagaio, in Aiuruoca, a region located almost 270 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro. Even the name of the place is hard to pronounce - and even harder to remember.

With such a conspicuous name, Do Lado de Lá ( which means On the Other Side)  has less than 10 accommodations and those range from standard rooms with shared bathroom up to bungalows with private Jacuzzi. As you have probably guessed, it’s an all-inclusive establishment (there´s nowhere else to eat, anyway!), with honest and simple home-made food cooked in the old fashioned way – on the woodstove.

You can´t help but be awed by the surrounding landscape and scenery, whatever your relationship with nature. If you are a hiker, there are plenty of trails to explore in the surrounding area, some leading to gorgeous waterfalls. If your trade is photography, then try to catch the subtle changes of light or even the sudden darkness of an approaching thunderstorm, which may reveal itself as an inspiration. Also, there´s a natural pool right beside the pousada for those who want a refreshing dip.


But, for those seeking a romantic refuge to relax, where cell phones and internet connections are to be forgotten, then obstacles must be faced to reach this place : the last steep climbs of the dirt road demands not only a 4x4 vehicle but your ability to manage the wheel in challenging conditions. Do Lado de Lá certainly deserves its name: remember that you will sleep at 1900 meters of altitude, in the highest pousada in Brazil.

Beautiful landscape of Aiuruoca, Minas Gerais

The highest pousada in Brazil, at 1900 meters from sea level.

Santa Teresa hotel, in Rio: great bar, mediocre restaurant

Santa Teresa's top hotel, the  Santa Teresa, which we've already shown photos of in this blog, has a restaurant that is quite stunning but, sadly, serves below-par food.  Says who? Says my friend and restaurant critic Constance Escobar. Click here to see dish-by-dish pictures of her recent meal there...  (I've also eaten there and.... was a bit disappointed myself).

The restaurant is called Térèze (in the picture above, seen from the exterior). And it's really too bad that the food is nothing special, because the actual space is quite beautiful! I love the chairs, designed by Minas Gerais artist Rock Lane, you can see more of his stuff on  his site.

Now... if you want to eat well, book a table at the nearby Aprazível, then finish off the Santa Teresa day with a mignardises and coffee at Terèze:





Or even better, a drink at the hotel's charming  bar:



Hotel Santa Teresa: Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 660, Santa Teresa, tel. (21) 2222-2755,