The Cavalhadas of Pirenópolis

by Antonella Kann
No, it´s not a horse which has to be protected from the sun or anything...A hooded horse is not, I agree, a very common site, but I will explain asap what´s this all about.  Well, this animal is just doing his part in an extremely popular event, called the Cavalhadas, which takes place every year since the 17th century in a small colonial town of the state of Goiás, Pirenópolis. 

Count 40 days after Easter and you´ll see hundreds of  horsemen riding across this small town, many of them  wearing masks and hoods as well as disguising their horses with funny-looking costumes. These guys are known as the Mascarados ( Mascarades) and their presence are never discreet. They shout, laugh and tease people, but they are part of this traditional popular festivity which lasts 3 whole days. 

If you have a spare time and happen to be in Brasilia, capital, don´t hesitate to rent a car and drive 140 kilometers to Pirenópolis, where besides watching this spectacular event, along with locals ( this is NOT Carnival and not the least a mass tourism attraction, as it´s not well known even among the Brazilians) and enjoy the atmosphere of this charming place. You´ll find very good pousadas as well as fantastic food, both regional as international. Also, the people of Goiás are (truly) reputed to be extremely hospitable- their doors are supposed to remain open all the time, to welcome visitors.

Under the spell of Boipeba´s charms

by Antonella Kann

Long time no see, you´ll say. And you´re right. I´ve been deep in travels, but very bad in posting something new since...well, you tell me. But during these trips I´ve visited places that you ought to go, either for a long vacation or short stay. One of those is Boipeba, very off the beaten track. It´s Bahia old-style in its true essence. You can fly from Salvador on a small plane from a tiny company called Addey ( reservas@addey.com.br ) which drops you off on that charming "airport" which you see on the first picture...

You then take a small canoe and jump off on a beach in central Boipeba. No cars, no motorized vehicles. The pousadas send a porter with a yellow wheelbarrow which will lift your luggage to your final destination. Best place to go is the Pousada Mangabeiras (www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br) , fabulous location on the top of a hill with eye-filling views. Check it out from the picture above. All of the rooms from cozy bungalows have this privilege. Note that you have to climb over 70 steps to reach your kingsize bed...

Sunshine, a good book and your favorite companion with you - this is basically the recipe if you want a perfect place. But if you are not the sort of person who slips from the room straight into a lounge chair by the pool, then try walking miles and miles around the island ( yes, you´ve guessed, Boipeba is an island) and discover unspoilt beaches, calm and pristine waters and, at low tide, natural pools.

Being miles from anywhere of consequences, framed by a picturesque landscape, Boipeba harbors the atmosphere of old-style Bahia. Relaxed, and affordable -chic. Try to go off-season and do not stay less than 3 nights. Ah, indulge in a fantastic massage with the therapist recommended in Pousada Mangabeiras´front desk. I did forget her name, but I remember that she is a very sweet American lady and you will be in heaven for an hour - I promise!

Late afternoon, sunset time, go for a walk around the village, all sand alleys, fishermen´s atrium, some tourists - lots of backpackers heading for smaller pousadas which used to be locals´home.

Although Boipeba is googleable by now, it still is that divine laidback sort of place.

São Paulo hotels and restaurants for high-rollers: top addresses

By Alexandra Forbes

Although the  bustling city of 19 million has long reigned as Brazil’s gastronomic and shopping meca, for years its restaurants remained an insider’s secret, as tourists preferred the sunnier and more laid-back cities to the North, such as Rio or Salvador. No more: the recent economic boom has drawn attention to the increasingly opulent metropolis boasting world-class restaurants, shops and hotels.

D.O.M. restaurant

RESTAURANTS

For seasoned foodies, no visit to São Paulo is complete without a visit to Maní (www.manimanioca.com.br) and D.O.M. (www.domrestaurante.com.br), restaurants which, in very novel ways, give little-known Brazilian ingredients a new guise.

Just as importantly, paulistanos (as São Paulo natives are referred to) saw their long-lived infatuation with sushi take flight: today, there are an eye-popping 600 Japanese restaurants in town. At the city’s premium Japanese restaurants, dish presentation and raw fish quality rival the best in Japan. Competing for the title of best sushiman in São Paulo are Jun Sakamoto (no website, tel. 55-11-3088-6019) – cerebral, temperamental, traditionalist, owner of the celebrated eponymous restaurant – and Tsuyoshi Murakami, a born showman whose wildly creative and artfully presented tasting menus served at Kinoshita (www.kinoshita.com.br) dazzle locals and tourists alike.

Fasano restaurant

HOTELS

A great luxury hotel is one thing, but one where there are almost always well-known figures of the local business and arts crowds milling around the lobby at happy hour, drink in hand? Only at the Fasano (www.fasano.com.br) , to be sure, the most glamorous of the city’s growing number of five stars. It also holds the title of hotel with the best piano bar (where even big stars like Caetano Veloso have sung) and the poshest Italian restaurant in town (also called Fasano).

Worthiest competitors include the design-driven Emiliano (www.emiliano.com.br), a mere four blocks away – with rooftop pool, spa and helipad – and the Grand Hyatt (http://saopaulo.grand.hyatt.com) , favoured by the business crowd, located in the modern, office-tower-heavy Berrini district.

Shopping Cidade Jardim

BOUTIQUES - SHOPPING

It’s amazing how many new shopping centers pop up each year in the city, such as  the Vila Olímpia, opened in 2010.  The granddaddy of them all, the Shopping Iguatemi (www.iguatemisaopaulo.com.br), is going as strong as ever: it houses the Tiffany flagship and many of Brazil’s most desireable brands, like Carlos Miele and Cris Barros.
But no mall comes close to matching the new Cidade Jardim in sheer refinement and beauty. Its open-air, tastefully-landscaped esplanades are home to some of the world’s chicest brands, including the biggest Louis Vuitton and first Hermès stores in Latin America. Petrossian opened its first boutique there a few months ago. London-based Issa and the American Tory Burch are next. 

Speto's grafitti art: from São Paulo to Miami's Primary Flight

I've been a longtime fan of many of São Paulo's great grafitti artists, of which Speto is my favourite. 

After years of not seeing him, we ran into each other at Cavalera's fashion show, which was held at the Estação da Luz, a gorgeous old train station in São Paulo's Centro (Old Downtown).

That was enough excuse for me to write up a little post on him, so I could share some of his favourite work with you (photos below were taken from Speto's Flickr feed).

At the last Art Basel Miami, Speto's gallerist Baixo Ribeiro, who owns Choque Cultural gallery, accompanied him as Speto worked on his first work for  Primary Flight - an open-air museum. 

The work, pictured below, will be on show until the next editon of the art fair, in December.

Photo: Moro no Rio

Here's the link to Speto's Flickr photo album, with more of his work

Brazil: its history, summarized, and a few of its architectural highlights

Recife, in Northeastern Brazil

by Alexandra Forbes

The Portuguese admiral Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil by accident in 1500. His fleet had set out in search of Indian spices, but favorable winds pushed them towards an exuberant and unknown land. They dropped anchor in the palm-lined bay of Porto Seguro, in what is today the southern part of the state of Bahia. There are still signs of their arrival: the first whitewashed churches in Porto Seguro and in the neighboring Arraial d’Ajuda attract curious tourists to this day.

The Portuguese organized their new territory into two captaincies (the administrative order of the time) – Pernambuco, north of Bahia, and São Vicente, in what is now the state of São Paulo – and they flourished. Pernambuco in particular grew and prospered thanks to the sugar trade, and soon the colony’s de facto capital was Olinda – Pernambuco’s main city, perched on a hill for protection. Its highest point is home to the São Salvador do Mundo church, better known as Alto da Sé. Built in 1537 as a testament to the wealth of the sugar magnates, this ornate church was adorned with an intricate design of gold leaf and painted tiles. Even today, the church and its surroundings are the nucleus of Olinda’s tourist hub.

Recife's Capela Dourada

The nearby village of Recife boasted deeper waters and a better port, so it soon surpassed Olinda as Brazil’s most prominent city. As Recife’s prosperity grew, the local churches became more luxurious. The Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel) was opened to the public in 1697, taking its name from the tremendous quantity of gold that covers its complex wooden engravings. The chapel is part of the Santo Antônio convent and remains one of the city’s most glorious legacies from this period.

Salvador's Elevador Lacerda

But back to Bahia, where a Portuguese king eventually declared the region’s principal city, Salvador, to be capital of the colony. Salvador da Bahia flourished as a result, becoming the most important city in Brazil. Many of its buildings and churches date back to the 17th century and are concentrated in the historic Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa, the two levels of the city that since 1872 have been connected by the famous Lacerda Elevator.

After Brazil had been established as a major exporter of sugar, and later coffee and gold, the Portuguese colonists began to expand through the rest of the country. Much of the country’s architectural riches from these days can be found in cities like Paraty and Rio de Janeiro, as well as in the mountain cities of Ouro Preto, Tiradentes and Mariana, heart of the gold rush.

Paraty, near Rio

Strangely, São Paulo, the undisputed financial and cultural capital of the country, has its origins in poverty and neglect. Wealthy industrialists didn’t build large mansions on Avenida Paulista until the early 20th century. Only a few of these palaces have survived, but the avenue remains a symbol of the city’s economic dominance. The most iconic structure is the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP). A large box of glass and cement, held aloft by red pillars, this building was designed by renowned architect Lina Bo Bardi and is an essential stop for any tourist.

MASP Museum in São Paulo

Around the time when the MASP was constructed, in the 1950s and 60s, São Paulo also enjoyed an architectural boom thanks to the work of architect Oscar Niemeyer. Known primarily for Brasilia, the current capital of the country, Niemeyer’s buildings in São Paulo are just as extraordinary and, most importantly, are easily accessible to most travelers. They include the spectacular Auditório Ibirapuera, the OCA exhibition center and the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM), which are all located in Ibirapuera Park, as well as the city’s architectural landmark, the COPAN, in the city’s downtown.
It’s ironic that São Paulo, once known as a gray and industrial city, now possesses some of Brazil’s greatest architectural gems.

In fact, the country’s 500 years of history are most evident the largest cities, like São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Each chapter, from the sugar and coffee eras to the discovery of gold, from independence to industrialization and now globalization, has left indelible marks on the urban tapestry. Each new wave of visitors – the Portuguese, African slaves and immigrants from Europe and Japan – has led to new neighborhoods and new architectural styles. The Portuguese may have imposed their tastes and customs over the first two centuries, but today the sheer variety of Brazil’s cities reveals the diversity of its people. In

Olinda

Iglesia de São Salvador do Mundo

Alto da Sé

www.embratur.gov.br

São Paulo

Museu de Arte de São Paulo, Masp

Av. Paulista 1578

Admission: US$8.50

www.masp.art.br

Auditório Ibirapuera

Av. Pedro Álvares Cabral, (no address number) – Portão 2

Tel. 55-11-3629-1075

www.auditorioibirapuera.com.br

Oca

Parque do Ibirapuera, portão 1 y 2 – (no address number)

MAM

Parque do Ibirapuera, portão 3 – (no address number)

Admission: US$3.50

www.mam.org.br

COPAN

Av. Ipiranga 200, downtown

www.copansp.com.br

Recife

Capela Dourada

Rua Imperador Dom Pedro II, 206

www.embratur.gov.br

Salvador da Bahia

www.bahia.com.br/motix/pt_br

Whale watching in Praia do Rosa

by Antonella Kann

Ok, I know, no excuse for me. I won´t spend time explaining why I haven´t posted anything for the last month. So, let me just introduce you to this wonderful place, called Praia do Rosa, in the southern state of Santa Catarina. It´s about 70 kilometers south from capital Florianópolis, but it can - and it will! - take you at least two hours by car to get there, because traffic congestion is a fact. Try getting there in midmorning instead of late afternoon, as you´ll have to cross city center and it means huge delays. But even these caveats are no reason to avoid visiting this gorgeous region where whale watching is a must during the months of july through october.

Everyone who has seen whales know that catching a glimpse of its tail is somewhat difficult. But in Praia do Rosa all the way to Garopaba - 15 kilometers away - and around, you can view as much as 5 of these enormous mammals in just a couple of minutes, depending where you stand. You might be on the beach and observe them playing, caring for their pup and take a lot of pictures such as those here. Or you can also board a 1,5 hr guided tour in Garopaba( www.vidasolemar.com.br) and get so close that you could actually touch them - as they approach fearlessly and harmlessly.

We spent a lovely weekend in a charming pousada called Solar Mirador(www.solarmirador.com.br) from which we had an incredible view of the Praia do Rosa in its whole extension. You are also steps away from the beach ( surf, STP and good hiking around) and the setting is amazing, the service very kind and professional and we were extremely lucky with the weather. Two sunny days on a row after a week of rain. And if you´re around, don´t miss the whales, which are called francas, and I promise it´s one experience of a lifetime and you´ll be thrilled!

Gastronomic festival in Tiradentes

by Antonella Kann

Just a quick reminder, because maybe you´ve just heard some rumors about the gastronomic festival which will be held in Tiradentes, the charming colonial town located 333 kilometers from Rio de Janeiro. Dates? It´s starts on Friday 19th and finishes on the 28th of August. Your best bet is to check their site http://www.culturaegastronomia.com.br/ or through the phone 31-30291686 .

The Gourmet Fest is only one of the events which take place in Tiradentes, but it´s certainly one of the busiest time of the year. People come from all places and the hotels are probably booked long in advance. But don´t loose hope: try to find accommodation somewhere in the vicinity. My suggestion would be a place called Hotel Fazenda Rochedo ( tel.55 32 3354 2439 or check their site www.hotelfazendarochedo.com.br. This cozy hotel is located some 30 km from Tiradentes. While away from the buzzling festival, you can go horseriding and hiking. Best of all, sleep amidst a beautiful landscape. On the other hand, you can spend the day in Tiradentes and enjoy several workshops and demos which are presented in spaces open to the public.

Reputed chefs, such as Paco Roncero and Alex Atala are going to be present at the Fest and will host special dinners. I am not sure if you are still on time to get tickets for these festims, as they are called, but nevertheless try through the phone 55 31 30291686. Or check the festival´s site www.culturaegastronomia.com.br These culinary treats do not come cheap, but it´s a once in a lifetime experience.

Barra de São Miguel, a place to be revisited

by Antonella Kann/photos by Rogério Maranhão

Can you see that picture above? Well, that´s where I will head to in October. Okay, I understand if you feel a bit envious. Off the beaten track it is - a marvellous beach called Barra de São Miguel, 30 kms from Alagoas´ state capital, Maceió. I remember going there...hummm...20 years ago, to spend New Year´s Eve. Our family and some friends had rented a house for 10 days and spent a memorable vacation. There was nothing besides a few villas lined along the deserted beach and the weather was perfect. So, that´s the place filled with memories where I want to go back. Now, in style, as a host of this eco-chic design resort called Kenoa, a new kid (just off) the block, which opened less than 2 years ago.

This impressive architecture is home to 23 luxurious suites, ranging from 45 to 200 square meters, depending which accommodation you choose. Some even have a private jacuzzi overlooking the beach. Whow! I am looking forward, that´s for sure! Specially when summer´s crowds have not yet arrived and this stretch of sandy beach is the perfect haven for relaxing, fancy long walks and tan yourself under the nicest weather ever.

Barra de São Miguel could easily become the destination on everybody´s lips, specially when you can stay in such a serenely stylish paradise known to only the savviest of travellers. But I´d feel bad if I wouldn´t share this secret with you, and though I still do not know the Kenoa personally, there´s little doubt that it will be a knock-out! Besides all the ammenities in the room, there´s a spa, a restaurant and a lounge to feel as pampered as royalty.

Spending nights in this beautiful environement is a vital part of any holiday. As I am focused on suggesting special spots for spending New Year´s Eve, I wouldn´t be pushing the envelope if I didn´t tell those nature buffs to consider Barra de São Miguel as a perfect choice. It may - as usual! - cost you a leg and an arm, but trust me, it´s worth it. I´ve been told that they still have availability, so...rush!

Every detail in the Kenoa draws my eyes like a magnet, as creature comforts were not overlooked: huge luxurious bed, peerless views, wi fi, huge TV, you name it. I expect my stay to be deliriously good and I promise to keep you posted.

www.kenoaresort.com

tel.55 82 3272 1285

Flexeiras, very secluded hub for New Year´s Eve

by Antonella Kann

Just take a deep breath - and a good look! - at the picture, then at the tiny swimming pools behind the coconut trees, then at the sandy beach, the translucid sea...Yes, it´s real. Doesn´t it make you want to transpond yourself immediately into that pretty setting? Now, just fancy yourself arriving in this fishing village called Flexeiras - just about 40km from capital Fortaleza, Ceará - which, did I mentionned before, is my favorite state in the whole of Brazil. Chances are that after reading this post you´ll have the urge to consider spending New Year´s Eve there, just splurging but also enjoying one of the most privy place on earth. The resort is called Orixas Art Hotel ( www.orixasarthotel.com.br) and is relatively a new kid on the block - oops! sorry, on this beautiful fragment of sandy beach located a world away from the agitated places.

But, even if it can cost you a leg and an arm ( which usually happens during high season and specially the end of the year), you´ll need to look no further than a few feet to unearth the best unspoilt beach ever. From your suite - which bear names like Babalaós, Oxum, Yemanjá , Obaluayá, all deities from Afro-Brazilian culture, revered by locals of the northeastern coast - you can have peerless views of the sea, coconut grove and the jangadas, the typical fishermen´s boats. Ah, by the way, you can go for a nice ride on one of them, I guarantee you´ll enjoy it.

Blissfully unpeopled, pocket size Flexeiras is not for an urbanite. It´s been a while since I´ve known this small village, and was impressed. Hopefully, it has maintained its characteristics, so that you´ll have the feeling of being a traveller instead of a tourist. Hopefully.

New Year´s Eve will strike again soon!

by Antonella Kann

I can´t believe we are already thinking about New Year´s Eve, but if you are like me, it´s already late. I´ve booked mine months ago - and guess where? Same place than last year´s. Yes, it´s Tibau do Sul alright. And next week I´ll have good news for you about this spot, because I just found out that there´s a new luxurious place for you to try your luck. In the meantime, let´s figure out what can be done from now on. Well, Bahia is always on everybody´s mind, so we´ll begin our list with a very discreet though very upscale Boipeba, not an easy access ( but who cares, once there, it´s paradise!).

As all places out of (easy) reach, this secluded location retains its cachet. And so does the Pousada Mangabeiras ( http://www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br/) where you´ll find the very relaxing way to spend the most sought-after vacation of the year. The pousada is part of reputed Roteiros de Charme, a well-known chain of charming small hotels in Brazil.

With intimacy combined with rustic sophistication in the bungalows, you are deep into the surrounding nature, which is unspoilt and unexplored. And also blissfully unpeopled.

As you are framed by blissfully deserted beaches, the most exquisite torture will be to tan the days away under plentiful of sunshine or submit yourself to sessions of massage and/or acunpuncture, offered in the pousada. For New Year´s Eve, the 6-nights package is still available at rates which range from R$7.910,00 to R$ 9.260 for the Master Bungalow. But, hurry up, as space is limited!

Itaipava Fair :a small shopping enclosure for good deals

by Antonella Kann

I really feel awfully guilty for not posting more while away from Brazil. But as soon as I´ll be back home, there´s a promise that I will sink into the latest good news for you. In the meantime, let me tell you about a little secret which is known only by the locals who spend time in the mountain region of Itaipava, Araras and neighborhood areas. It´s the Feirinha de Itaipava, which packs around 400 stalls of locally made clothes and accessories. And there´s more...

It´s not a tourist-trap and the attraction lies partly in browsing all of the stalls ( it won´t take a day, just a couple of hours) for good offers, besides getting the experience of shopping in a typically clothing fair. From bags to pets´clothes, you may find excellent children´s trousers, sweatshirts, shorts, dresses, socks, overalls and an infinite list of have-to-buy stuff, like underwear and hats...

The fair is partially outdoors, but on a rainy day will be okay as the stalls are protected. By the way, this fair happens only during the weekend, from 10 till 7 pm and is an ideal year-round program if you are on your way to Itaipava, Três Rios, Araras or Bonsucesso.

Of course, do not expect anything fashionable or fancy, or any well know brand, but the clothes have quality : Itaipava is reputed for its jerseys, which come in handy during winter time, when temperatures fall under 10º C in these places - which is considered frosty by the cariocas´standards. So, if you are not after a famous label on your sweat shirt, consider it a child´s play to look around and find yourself something comfy to watch TV in front of a fireplace.

By the way, you are only a couple of hours from busy Rio, so if your way passes along the BR-40, remember very few places pack as many hidden "gems" into such a small space. It´s an outlet for those who are inclined to spare a couple of bucks...Why not?