Caraívas, the melting pot of the south of Bahia.

by Antonella Kann

The first time I heard about this fishermen´s village was in 1995. It was the right place to go if you were the hippie-minded traveler. Whatever was left from the Aquarius era was still there.


But I wasn´t the hippie type anymore, did care about a good shower after spending a whole day on the beach, didn´t want to sleep surrounded by mosquitoes and had an issue about mobile connections. So I just acknowledged its existence.

It took me another decade to get personally acquainted with Caraívas.

By then, the small community, with simple houses, only 40 kms away from trendy Trancoso , still had no electricity, mobiles didn´t work, and the few rustic pousadas did not offer private bathroom or hot water. And, of course, none of the tourist business was there to make your stay more comfy. Nevertheless, you would have a remarkable and intimate relationship with the natives and connect with their way-of-life very easily.

Now, oh, well…Caraívas became fashionable, though. Mobile phones still remain disconnected but there´s electricity power. And now it´s really cool to say that you´re going there instead of spending a fortune in the neighboring high end beach of Praia do Espelho or even Trancoso.

But the village hasn´t changed much, due to its geographical attributes: it´s a river apart from the main dust road, so, naturally, it´s car free. Or almost, as you´ve got the buggies to move around as a mean of way of transportation. Or do as the locals, use the donkeys ( just kidding…).

Though it´s more than fun to go for a ride on this 4-wheeled-kind-of-jeep, very much in use in the northeast as it can easily stroll through thick sandy roads, dunes and the beaches.

Sandy alleys melt into the sandy beach as there´s no road or pavement in Caraívas. The village is framed by the sea and the river, and fishermen carry on their chores as in the past. The tourists come in flocks, some even carrying their own pillows and sleeping bags, and everyone crosses from one border to another by hand driven canoes, provided by the locals. You´ll pay a (negotiable) fee for each person, one way. I remember last time it was a mere R$ 2. On the other side, everyone walks to his pousada – which, fortunately, have been revamped. You do find cozy accommodations with a touch of amenities such as the Pousada Vila do Mar (www.pousadaviladomar.com.br ) Rest assure : it´s not a five-star, but you´ll be comfy enough. And, guess what – you are spending most of your time lying down on the beach, sipping coconut water.

I´ll introduce these last lines from now on, in every post. Hope you´ll take full advantage of these Insiders´tips:
Do´s : take only one duffel, pack as light as you can, because you´ll be wearing nothing else than shorts, swimming suits and t-shirts. As for walking on sand all the time, no other shoes than brazilian flip-flops, please! ( and don´t forget your sunscreen…)
Don´t: Carnival ( March 3-13th 2011) is the busiest and noisiest time ever. Not a jolly season to pick up for those looking forward to a relaxing holiday.

Under the spell of Ceará state, in Brazil's Nordeste

by Antonella Kann

Ceará is one of my favorite states. Not only because it´s so uncommonly beautiful in many distinguished features, like the endless stretches of sandy beaches and the wildness of nature which surrounds them.


It´s also oddly attractive because it´s as if time has stopped in several little seaside resorts, like Mundaú, as pictured here in some of the images. By the way, seasons are different in the northeast : now it´s “their summer”, so it´s as hot as it can be, dry and sunny.

Early morning you can go down to the seashore and watch as the fishermen come back from their catch. Dozens of people gather , some buying but many of them just waiting to be granted with the “leftovers”.

You will also spot people coming on donkeys, bikes and all kind of means of transportation. The sand gets very hard as the tide goes down. That´s why one of the best way to explore the region is with a funny sort of car called buggy, perfect for sandy beaches and very popular with tourists and locals.

The cearense ( those from Ceará) is a jolly good fellow, always very kind and willing to chat. And ready to show you around. But do not hurry in these places. No stress. Life goes on day after day, and while they are busy, folks will grin and eventually pose for your camera. If you start to chat, chances are you´ll never be waved away.

Also be prepared to eat as a local - fresh lobster, crabs and crayfish, delicious seafood straight from the nets, cooked, grilled or broiled. And, while you wait, facing the sea, sitting on a wooden stool, feet on the sand, ask for an “água de côco”, and sip the fresh coconut water inside its shell. Then, you´ll use “local tools” to eat - your fingers, at some point.

But I guarantee that you won´t regret a bite !

fishermen coming back after a busy day of work

Jericoacoara is still an authentic fishermens´village with special privileges

by Antonella Kann
Jericoacoara, a fishermen´s village located 330 kms from Fortaleza, was discovered by the hippies in the 70´s and remained untouched by “modern” civilization until a decade ago, as even electricity was unavailable. And when tourists slowly appeared, many from overseas, Jeri – as it is called among the Brazilians – became a favorite spot for those in search of unspoilt natural beauty, calm sea, hospitable people and warm climate.

Although now the village is boosting with all types of charming restaurants serving from typical seafood to sophisticated fusion recipes, cosy inns as well as boutique hotels, attractive shops and a wide range of outdoor activities offered by several local tour operators, it has not lost its original languorous and laid-back atmosphere, which are genuine characteristics of the northeastern part of Brazil.

The coast of Ceará runs parallel to the Equator, which makes it different from the rest of the Brazilian coastline. For this reason, the best time to go to Jeri is from June to January, which locals describe as “summer”, when it never rains. This period also attracts windsurfers, as weather conditions are perfect for the practice of all sports related to sailing.

Getting to Jericoacoara is not so complicated: from Fortaleza airport you can either rent a car at the airport ( Hertz, Avis, Localiza, Unidas, Europecar & other companies) and drive along the BR-222. Best option is to leave you car in Jijoca and have your hotel provide you with adequate 4x4 transfer from there to Jeri and back at the end of your stay. Your car will be kept safe too. It´s not advisable to risk driving by yourself as the sandy road is tricky.

One of the palafita´s room in Vila Kalango

Consider staying in one of these pousadas: Pousada Vila Kalango
www.vilakalango.com.br Charm and rusticity combined in comfy accommodations amidst coconut trees. If you can, book the rooms perched on “palafitas” (perched 5meters above the sand) with panoramic view to the sea, beach and dunes. Luxury with an Asian touch. Perfect choice for couples in search of total privacy. Check their interesting rates for March, April and May. Or MosquitoBlue www.mosquitoblue.com.br .Top of the list hotel with large accommodations and international standard of comfort. Large swimming pool. Ideal for families with small children. Located in front of the beach and also at stone´s throw of the center of the village.

As the beaches are part of a National Park, you can walk for miles without a soul on sight. The sea is calm and the water warm. Now and then, there is a very simple and rustic hut selling beer and coconut water to quench your thirst and tempt you with grilled shrimps. On the other end, the devices used to carry the tourists from one place to another have been upgraded.

Though donkey rides are still available and quite folkloric, nowadays it became common practice to rent a buggy with a driver (it is mandatory) and explore the region through the coastline while the tides are down. This rustic vehicle with large tires is perfectly adequate for sandy terrain and the most reliable way to reach other attractive faraway sites and beaches. The journeys are thrilling as it will usually include river crossing and experience roller coasting on white sand dunes. Consider Tatajuba, 36 kilometers from Jeri, or the Blue Lagoon where you can soak in dark sweet water.

Mangue Seco is only 5 kilometers away from the village and Jijoca´s lagoon is an excellent spot for windsurfing. But before booking with the local tour operators located in the centre of the village, compare prices and discuss the fare beforehand. The former most attractive program still persists: walk or rent a horse and head for Pedra Furada, the rock formation with a hole- the eternal post card. It is a one- hour ride or two-hours hike to this small beach along trails and cliffs, and the view is fabulous. You can spend some time in the beach or take a rest before returning.

Beware of the heat and always protect head and body from the sun, which is known to be even stronger in this part of Brazil. And while talking about the sunset, it is still the most sought-after show on earth. Daily, around 5:30 p.m., a crowd begins the ascend to the 30 meters high Sunset Dune, the highest in Jeri. Some people walk, others ride up on horseback, with the same goal in mind: to watch step by step the rays as they start spreading across the ocean while the sun gently falls into the line of the horizon and disappear into the sea as an enormous ball of fire. When it´s over, the public cheers, acclaims and applauds.

The ritual of climbing the dune to watch the sunset