Le Relais de Marambaia : a room with a view – the best in Rio – far from the madding crowd!

by Antonella Kann

Few places in Rio reveal such a magnificent view as the one from Le Relais de Marambaia´s five exclusive suites. The caveat is its location, tucked-away in Pedra de Guaratiba, a neighborhood which is only 20-some kilometers away from Leblon, but quite a burden to reach if you are caught in heavy traffic jam. The area nearby is also home to the famous gardens of Roberto Burle Marx. So get ready to enjoy more than an overnight stay.


But, if you are smart, schedule your departure (from any place in town) before three o´clock in the afternoon, so you´ll get there earlier than I did and nothing can prepare you for the stunning sunset which can be admired from the swimming pool as well as from the terrace of your comfortable suite.

I was itching to get there and planned an escape in the middle of the week, in order to enjoy this sun + relaxation program with my husband. Although we missed the best part, we could still relax with a couple of caipirinhas in our hand. The nice kiwi and passion fruit drinks were delicious and therefore we could recover our energy and consider tasting a menu featuring seasonal produce – shrimp, fish, crab…

An ideal year-round destination, the Relais de Marambaia is one of the many guesthouses which opened in Rio lately. It belongs to a French citizen and is run by his charming niece, Alexandra, who cares for every detail in the house, which is as stylish as a boutique hotel can be – king sized beds with white linen and fluffy robes, Occitane ammenities, wide TV screens, DVD´s, Perrier bottles in the mini bar and walk in showers for two. Some even have a jacuzzi. She also looks after her guests as if they were old-time friends.

A recent makeover turned le Relais into a refuge for couples in search of a romantic overnight stay, as well as foreign tourists who want to run away from Rio´s madding crowd. You do, indeed, have the best view from every angle of the guesthouse, as there is a 60 kilometers´stretch of sand splashed right in front, known as the Restinga de Marambaia. Unfortunately, it´s inaccessible to anyone except the military, reason for this area to remain immaculate and untouched. You may swim right there and nearby, but you can´t set foot on the beach.

But ( and a big BUT) Alexandra invites her guests to explore similar (and hidden) gems like this one, deserted beaches which are nestled around the area. Simply board one of the fishermen´s boats, which can be hired right in loco, and go for a little ride. These beaches are only reached by sea or hiking. So, for sure, you´ll feel like Robinson Crusoe…

Le Relais de Marambaia

Estrada Roberto Burle Marx 9346

www.lerelaisdemarambaia.com.br

tel. 5521 23942544

Tibau do Sul, a place to call your own

by Antonella Kann

As I told you before New Year´s Eve, I was going to hide myself in one of those special hubs of the northeast, a place called Tibau do Sul.
Since the last decade, I´ve been coming to this hidden gem where you are bound to find deserted beaches even during high season and holidays.

Considering that I wanted to break my city-style routine, Tibau do Sul has a clutch of luxurious attributes, such as no routine, to begin with. And no internet around, too.
Next, you become an early bird even if this doesn´t appetize you. The breeze crossing leisurely across the coconut leaves sounds like a wake up call - and music along the day.

Breakfast with an overview – the sea, the skyline of sandy beaches in the horizon, the blue sea, the mood of the tide…Then a stroll in the village, with a shopping list – what are we having for lunch??? Check with the fisherman´s stock, right across the bakery.

When the tide starts to get lower, natural small swimming pools form all along the shore. The water is translucid. You just have to dip in it, with a book in your hand, tons of sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and soak in the warmth of the rays.

If you´re the sportive kind of guy, then get ready to surf among dolphins in the Praia do Madeiro, test your skills with a paddle on stand-up boards on the lagoon, go for a horseriding adventure on the beach, challenge your fear by being a passenger on a parapente experience – the professional who will be piloting is an expert, so don’t worry….Or just hire a buggy and explore the surrounding beaches, either by going north or south on the dunes and sand. No toll road in these itineraries.

And as far as food is concerned, you shall spoil yourself rotten on fresh produce from the sea, plus coconut water, capirinhas, cold beer and fusion food in many restaurants of nearby Pipa. This fishermen´s village was once what Tibau used to be, but lost its tranquility to fancy hotels, fashionable tourism and rock´n roll.

On the other hand, expect to eat well and choose from Thai to tapas, including French, Italian, Peruvian, and, naturally, regional potiguar (originally from Rio do Grande do Norte state) specialities.

But if you´re too lazy to turn on the engine of the car and drive 6 kilometers, then you can still relish on the fresh oysters which can be ordered in some of the unsophisticated restaurants of Tibau. Or typical dishes such as bobó de camarão ( a recipe blending shrimps, coconut milk, turnip and fresh herbs), washed down with a chope – beer from the tap.

Then, as you are in the northeast, there are hammocks in every corner of the house, including on the terrace, in which you feel obliged to take a nap every afternoon, after (late) lunch.

Another of Bahia´s idyllic fragment:Praia do Forte

by Antonella Kann

It´s no secret that Bahia´s coastline is dotted with the most dreamy stretches of sandy beaches, but no doubt very few places are as enchanting as Praia do Forte, located around 50 kms north of Salvador´s airport. My first visit to this seaside resort was more than 20 years ago, long before it became a tourist´s hot spot, and since then I would go back countless times.

It´s also one of the few places on earth from where I don´t want to leave. Unfortunately, it´s been a couple of years since I ´ve scheduled a weekend there, but I made up my mind to mend this very soon, be assured. It´s less than two hours´ flight from Rio or São Paulo.

A quarter of a century ago, Praia do Forte was a tiny fishermen´s village and off the beaten track. Until it became the birthplace of Projeto Tamar, an ecological plan meant to protect the sea turtles which come ashore to lay their eggs. This project has gathered several international awards for preserving the environment.


So, fortunately, this village reinvented itself as a hub attracting ecotourists as well as those who are looking for an escape with a twist – Praia do Forte´s small hip village is car free, full of cozy boutiques and small shops, bars and fine restaurants serving from hearty Brazilian dishes to international cuisine, and its pousadas have been given a makeover.

Besides, there are dreamy beaches bathed by dozens of natural pools which emerge when the tide is low. Nature lovers will not want to move from the pretty setting – there´s a very interesting visitors´ center where all kind of sea turtles can be seen before being released into the ocean - and there´s lots to do in the area – from shopping to long walks, horseriding, snorkeling, surfing and mountain bike.

Anytime is good. And if there´s a time to go, just go. Chances are you won´t want to leave this place. Just like me.

the natural pools of Praia do Forte: warm and calm waters

Fishing and riding in Bahia´s deserted beaches of Santo André

by Antonella Kann

You can only reach the small town of Santo André by ferry. It´s a very short journey across the bay of Cabrália, away from the bustle of Porto Seguro, in the south of Bahia.



Land of deserted beaches, and surely one of the loveliest landscapes, the area is the habitat of the marlin, an enormous fish which can reach up to 300 kilos. A haven for fishermen , who are sure to have a jolly good time.

Another attraction are the natural pools of the Araripe reef, and sailing boats as well as tourist boats take visitors for a dip into these limpid waters.

Also, surf championships are held in the neighbouring town of Belmonte, only a half hour drive to the north.

The sea can be rough sometimes, or very calm for a long period. There is 7 kilometers of beach that stretches from Santo André to Ponta de Santo Antonio, close to the river which bears the same name.

Fishing can also be put together with horseback riding within the same holiday package. There is one of the most exclusive resort in the region, the Toca do Marlin (www.tocadomarlin.com.br) which offers its guests the opportunity for good rides on the beach.

Actually, it´s a stud farm where fine Lusitanian horses are bred. Even those with little experience can enjoy this combination of riding watching a maritime scenario. If you have never galloped on a deserted beach, give it a try.

Fazenda da Lagoa: bewitchingly beautiful haven in the south of Bahia

by Antonella Kann

For my husband´s 57th birthday, I decided to surprise him with a long weekend in a secluded place to celebrate this date discreetly, as he no longer fancies big parties - nor greetings. Whatever destination, wifi in the room was not an option.

That ´s what I had in mind...

...And combined with this also....

The Fazenda da Lagoa (http://www.fazendadalagoa.com.br/) couldn´t be more appropriate: it´s a bewitchingly beautiful and small pousada located ( or should I say hidden? ) as far as possible from the madding crowd, but conveniently situated only 35 minutes away ( by car) from Ilheus´ airport, in the south of Bahia.

Around the pousada, there´s nothing except lush vegetation and an endless white washed sandy beach, framed by coconut trees and, of course, the sea. You bet, location is…everything. Plus, the flight from Rio would only take around 2 hours with another (swift) 35mns hop from Salvador. Nowadays, the less time you´re predicted to sit on a plane, the best. So the itinerary looked great.

The minute you leave the BR-001 and enter the winding dirt road that literally separates you from the real world, you realize that from now on the word civilization will have other meanings. For instance, a 10 kilometers deserted picture-postcard beach for you to stroll along. By yourself. I mean it: except for a couple of local fishermen, there´s not a soul in sight.

the living room, library and dining room

Why? Because the whole extension of the beach is private, as part of the estate that belongs to the Fazenda – which, by the way, can only be reached by boat ( a short 300meters ride, but still a boat ride). There´s no village, no commerce, no beach vendors, not even someone walking around selling coconut water. Overall, the sand is immaculate, as there´s no litter whatsoever.

To describe the Fazenda just as an off-the-radar gem is an understatement. It´s more than a place where you are pampered and relish in complete privacy in one of the 14 bungalows that are graciously spread apart in an enchanting surrounding of coconut trees. It´s a place where you share nature from morning till night, and get all the simple pleasures of life from it.

every bungalow is apart from the other: complete privacy.

Bare feet in the sand – and everywhere, if that´s your wish! – head for a view of the sunrise by the river and/or the sunset by the sea. In between, indulge in a massage at the spa , otherwise life may become really hard to endure! Or else, well, a little shopping does no harm and even in paradise, there are always little develish temptations - one of them are the most amazing patterns hand painted on table cloth and pillow cases by artist and owner Mucki Skowronski. All for sale in the tiny boutique which is also the reception area.

Mucki´s colorful patterns

Another refreshing option, at anytime ( but preferably during low tide) is a dip in the ocean, or relax by the pool, and don´t ever forget to sip a caipirinha made of fresh fruit only ( think cashew, passion fruit, kiwi and more)! But your life is definitely ruled by nature. Let´s say, by the tantrums of the tides. High and low. So if you are planning a long stroll on the beach, a pleasure in itself, it must happen during low tide. Also, you can bike for hours on the sand which become as hard as a dirt road… at low tide. But watch out, as water rises very quickly and wipes the beach out of your feet.

Indeed, food is also highly ranked here and you´ll have a taste of regional cuisine as well as fusion with Brazilian and international recipes. By the way, on June 3 to 6, there will be a gastronomic event run by famous French chef Claude Troigros. I strongly recommend that those interested must really rush to grab a room.

Again, room is also an understatement, by the way. Your accommodation couldn´t be more spacious, comfy, with an enormous king bed, wide screen TV, DVD, air conditioning ( yes, I know, all of these items are more than civilized, but let´s agree that they really come in handy after you have relaxed all day in the natural environment). Ah! But, remember, I had chosen a haven where there´s no wi fi and probably your cell phone won´t work. Ideal for honeymooners? Positive. But also for old couples like us, who actually enjoy being in a place where coconut leaves sizzle when caressed by the constant breeze.

at high tide, the beach disappears.

But as we are not the somnolent types, we also love to explore. So we head every morning for a swim in the beautiful lagoa in the premises, which actually inspired the owners to name their pousada Fazenda da Lagoa after this charming lake. Its water is always crystal, it doesn´t matter if it rains or shines. And you can spend hours swimming as the temperature is as warm as it gets. After all, you are in Bahia!

Jericoacoara is still an authentic fishermens´village with special privileges

by Antonella Kann
Jericoacoara, a fishermen´s village located 330 kms from Fortaleza, was discovered by the hippies in the 70´s and remained untouched by “modern” civilization until a decade ago, as even electricity was unavailable. And when tourists slowly appeared, many from overseas, Jeri – as it is called among the Brazilians – became a favorite spot for those in search of unspoilt natural beauty, calm sea, hospitable people and warm climate.

Although now the village is boosting with all types of charming restaurants serving from typical seafood to sophisticated fusion recipes, cosy inns as well as boutique hotels, attractive shops and a wide range of outdoor activities offered by several local tour operators, it has not lost its original languorous and laid-back atmosphere, which are genuine characteristics of the northeastern part of Brazil.

The coast of Ceará runs parallel to the Equator, which makes it different from the rest of the Brazilian coastline. For this reason, the best time to go to Jeri is from June to January, which locals describe as “summer”, when it never rains. This period also attracts windsurfers, as weather conditions are perfect for the practice of all sports related to sailing.

Getting to Jericoacoara is not so complicated: from Fortaleza airport you can either rent a car at the airport ( Hertz, Avis, Localiza, Unidas, Europecar & other companies) and drive along the BR-222. Best option is to leave you car in Jijoca and have your hotel provide you with adequate 4x4 transfer from there to Jeri and back at the end of your stay. Your car will be kept safe too. It´s not advisable to risk driving by yourself as the sandy road is tricky.

One of the palafita´s room in Vila Kalango

Consider staying in one of these pousadas: Pousada Vila Kalango
www.vilakalango.com.br Charm and rusticity combined in comfy accommodations amidst coconut trees. If you can, book the rooms perched on “palafitas” (perched 5meters above the sand) with panoramic view to the sea, beach and dunes. Luxury with an Asian touch. Perfect choice for couples in search of total privacy. Check their interesting rates for March, April and May. Or MosquitoBlue www.mosquitoblue.com.br .Top of the list hotel with large accommodations and international standard of comfort. Large swimming pool. Ideal for families with small children. Located in front of the beach and also at stone´s throw of the center of the village.

As the beaches are part of a National Park, you can walk for miles without a soul on sight. The sea is calm and the water warm. Now and then, there is a very simple and rustic hut selling beer and coconut water to quench your thirst and tempt you with grilled shrimps. On the other end, the devices used to carry the tourists from one place to another have been upgraded.

Though donkey rides are still available and quite folkloric, nowadays it became common practice to rent a buggy with a driver (it is mandatory) and explore the region through the coastline while the tides are down. This rustic vehicle with large tires is perfectly adequate for sandy terrain and the most reliable way to reach other attractive faraway sites and beaches. The journeys are thrilling as it will usually include river crossing and experience roller coasting on white sand dunes. Consider Tatajuba, 36 kilometers from Jeri, or the Blue Lagoon where you can soak in dark sweet water.

Mangue Seco is only 5 kilometers away from the village and Jijoca´s lagoon is an excellent spot for windsurfing. But before booking with the local tour operators located in the centre of the village, compare prices and discuss the fare beforehand. The former most attractive program still persists: walk or rent a horse and head for Pedra Furada, the rock formation with a hole- the eternal post card. It is a one- hour ride or two-hours hike to this small beach along trails and cliffs, and the view is fabulous. You can spend some time in the beach or take a rest before returning.

Beware of the heat and always protect head and body from the sun, which is known to be even stronger in this part of Brazil. And while talking about the sunset, it is still the most sought-after show on earth. Daily, around 5:30 p.m., a crowd begins the ascend to the 30 meters high Sunset Dune, the highest in Jeri. Some people walk, others ride up on horseback, with the same goal in mind: to watch step by step the rays as they start spreading across the ocean while the sun gently falls into the line of the horizon and disappear into the sea as an enormous ball of fire. When it´s over, the public cheers, acclaims and applauds.

The ritual of climbing the dune to watch the sunset