Astor bar in Rio: Ipanema's newest hotspot, next door to the Fasano

 
Yes, they did it again: the owners of the ultra-popular Bráz pizza joints, Pirajá bar and Astor restaurant, among other inimitable hot spots in São Paulo, are proceding with their expansion in Rio. The latest newcomer is an outpost of Astor - which calls itself a bar but is actually a casual restaurant which doubles as bar (here, food is taken quite seriously and is not a mere sidenote).

The location of the Rio Astor could not be any nobler: the corner of Vieira Souto avenue and Rainha Elizabeth street, in Ipanema. A few steps away from Rio's hottest hotel, the Fasano. And across the avenue from Ipanema beach. Per-FECT!

The main feature of the brasserie-style décor is the antique bar shipped all the way from Philadelphia.

Black-and-white photos of Rio's most iconic old bars line the walls.

The draft beer is stupendous - that's what these guys are best-known for. But they've worked on a respectable list of martinis, and also serve imaginative versions of the caipirinha.

The food is hangover-friendly: Picadinho, a classic beef stir fry (R$ 32) Steak tartare (R$ 34), and the all-time brazilian favourite, steak with rice, beans and onions.

 
Bar Astor
Avenida Vieira Souto, 110 – Ipanema
Telefone: (21) 2523-0085
www.barastor.com.br

Asia restaurant, in Santa Teresa, Rio: beautiful décor, exotic dishes

And now continues the renaissance of the bohemian Santa Teresa district in Rio, with the opening of yet another hip and pricey restaurant, called Asia, owned by a Brit and a man from Malaysia.

The place is quite beautiful, and the food is... you guessed it: Asian! We've heard and read mixed reviews: slow service, packaged fruit juices, etc., but good food.

Here are more details, from the press release:

“A truly Asian taste experience, Asia restaurant is situated in the heart of Santa Teresa’s bohemian community, 10 minutes from downtown via the picturesque Bonde, the only surviving tram service in Rio. It’s also just 15 minutes from Copacabana, and 20 minutes from Ipanema.

Its beautiful heritage building has been transformed with stylish modern designer interiors, offering dining and drinking on four levels, overlooking the lush tropical terraced gardens that form a part of one of the largest urban forests in the world.The menu, prepared by a team of Gold Medal award-winning master chefs, offers the tastes and flavours of Asia, including specialities from Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand and India.



Asia also introduces Dim Sum to Rio for the first time, a selection of steamed, fried and baked delicacies, similar to Spanish tapas. As well as Dim Sum, there is a menu with wider Asian influences, including traditional Malaysian Satay, stir-fries, exotic curries, and mouth-watering desserts. For the uninitiated, sampler menus will enable guests to experience the full range of these exciting new taste sensations.Asia is also introducing an extensive selection of specially imported Chinese teas.

(...) The glass-walled kitchen level offers tables as well, allowing guests to see the chefs at work, with special Dim Sum and noodle-making demonstrations during service. "

Asia Restaurante E Bar: Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 256Santa Teresa, Tel: 55- 21 2224 2014
Email: asiario@gmail.com

Boox, in Ipanema, is coolest supper club in Rio

Supper clubs are everywhere, and the reason why they keep proliferating is obvious: everyone loves to be able to go out to dinner and then be able to stay on at the same place for the post-dinner party. Call it a two-in-one deal.

From what I hear, Boox in Ipanema is Rio's answer to the supper club craze. Asian-fusion-impossible-to-describe food is totally beside the point: go for the beautiful décor and the party vibe. Oh, and it doesn't hurt that it's only a few blocks away from the hottest hotel in town, the Fasano.

Boox Lounge
Rua Barão da Torre, 368 - Ipanema
tel. 55 21 2522-3730‎

Rio's best pastry and cofee shops, juice bar and finger food

My friend and hard-core chocoholic Constance Escobar lives in Rio and spends good part of her free time eating out and testing out the city's cofee shops, pâtisseries and juice stands. She was invited by renowned mag Veja Rio to vote for the best addresses in several food categories (for their annual restaurant issue), so she dove into more taste tests, with great relish. She's been kind enough to share with us her votes and her expert and unbiased opinions. Here it goes:

BEST CHOCOLATE
Aquim

Chocolates are delicate and refined. The ganaches are expertly well-balanced. The bonbons are never too sweet.
Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva, 1321, Leblon, tel. 2274-1001. 10 am to 8 pm

BEST BRIGADEIRO
Beth Chocolates

Brigadeiros are chocolate candies that are soft and chewy and enrobed in chocolate sprinkles. A Brazilian delicacy that is completely addictive. Beth serves her velvety brigadeiros in tiny cups (pictured below), and sprinkles them with bittersweet Callebaut chocolate. First-rate.

BEST ESPRESSO
Rubro Café

Great blend of beans from the hills of Minas Gerais. Efficient baristas.

BEST BREAKFAST
Escola do Pão

A bit pricier than the competition, but makes up for that in quality. It's a veritable feast: artisanal breads, sandwiches, delicious cheese gratin, corn porridge, etc etc etc. All of it impeccable.
Rua General Garzon, 10, Lagoa, tel. 2294-0027 or 3205-7275

.

CREPE
Le Blé Noir

Owned and run by an expat from Bretagne. Light, golden crepes made with top-quality ingredients.
Rua Xavier da Silveira, 19, Copacabana, tel. 2267-6969. Dinner only.

PASTRY SHOP
Garcia & Rodrigues

The best selection in town: queijadinhas, tartelettes, éclairs, petit-fours; tiramisù, pastéis de Belém.... all excellent.
Rua Ataulfo de Paiva, 1251, Leblon, tel. 3206-4100 (204 lugares). 8am to midnight, daily

BAR MUNCHIES
Aconchego Carioca

The bolinhos and croquetes (fritters) made her are true icons of Rio's pub food. Be sure to try the manioc fritters with shrimp bobó, absolutely delicious. As are the feijoada croquettes.

SANDWICHES
Bazzar Café

Top-notch hot dogs, burgers, falafel sammies and croque-monsieur.

ICE CREAM
Garcia & Rodrigues

Made artisanally, its texture is unbeatable.
Rua Ataulfo de Paiva, 1251, Leblon, tel. 3206-4100 (204 lugares). 8am to midnight, daily.

JUICE BAR
Líquido

They take extreme care with their juices, divided on the menu in categories so clients know if they're made in a blender, a juicer or whatever else, and what is added to the final result. Great combos like the pineaple, lime and grape juice. All made to order, of course.

And here, a link to Veja Rio's annual restaurant edition.

Aquim restaurant, in Leblon: charming spot for lunch or dinner

The adorable Café Aquim, in Leblon, is a true family business, run by the Aquim family. The chef is Samantha Aquim, who studied at the École Lenôtre and spent some time working under überchef Joël Robuchon.

At first, the focus was on breakfast and tea, and the place served incredible pastries. With time, they've shifted direction. They stopped serving breakfast and put all the emphasis on lunch and dinner - a decision that has left some longtime regulars like food expert Constance Escobar puzzled and even a bit disappointed.

At night they serve, among other things, a plateau of assorted cold canapés: foie gras cone, crusted pineaple, tomato financier and haddock savarin.

At lunchtime, they offer a few options of prix fixe:

Fórmula 1 – R$ 37,00: Appetizer and main course

Fórmula 2 – R$ 37,00: Main course and dessert

Fórmula 3 – R$ 48,00: Appetizer, main course and dessert

Fórmula 4 – R$ 60,00: Appetizer, main course, dessert, glass of Terrazas wine, bottled water and Illy coffee

At night the menu is more ambitious. Appetizers include a shrimp bisque (24 reais) and fresh heart of palm roasted whole and paired with prosciutto chips. Mains include a lamb and black rice risotto and magret of duck with almond risotto and caramelized apple.

The elegant room is done in purple, chocolate brown and gold, and the furniture was designed by Fernando Jaeger. Antiques and pieces brought from the family's travels are sprinkled throughout. Beautiful bronze branches are used as room dividers, and a white onix table with gold-leafed legs is the centerpiece of the décor.






Café Aquim - Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva 1240 – loja B – Leblon, tel. (21) 2512-4670




And more Rio dining on this blog:

1. Roberta Sudbrack: the best chef in Rio?
2. Terzetto Café: great breakfast spot in Ipanema
3. The best restaurants in Rio according to the experts
4. Bráz, Carlota... São Paulo restaurants open Rio outposts
5. Where to eat bacalhau (cod): the best Portuguese restaurants
6. Le Pré-Catalan at the Sofitel: when hotel dining is done right
7. Bráz, São Paulo's best pizzeria, opens outpost in Barra da Tijuca
8. Livraria da Travessa, in Barra da Tijuca, has an outpost of Copa Café serving great burgers
   

10 Reasons to visit Rio de Janeiro

1 – Santa Teresa (pictured above)
Taking a cab up one of the steep cobblestone roads that lead into Rio's most bohemian neighbourhood, perched on a hill, feels like leaving the city altogether. Colorful townhouses with wrought-iron gates, friendly neighborhood grocery stores and birds chirping in the trees replace the hustle and bustle of downtown. For decades, poets, musicians and other artsy folk have spent a good part of their days debating and drinking chilled beers at the same old bars – Goiabeira and Santa Saideira - their tables and tiled floors worn down by the years. The main square – where lovely old cablecars make stops every half hour - is picture-perfect, with its washed-out little church, a big tree in the middle and the stunning view of the city below. Before taking the cablecar back down to the city, save time for inexpensive lunch at Aprazível or Bar do Arnaudo, Santa Teresa’s most picturesque restaurants.
Aprazível: Rua Aprazível, 62, T: 55 21 2508-9174
Bar do Arnaudo: Rua Almirante Alexandrino 316-B, T: 55 21 2252-7246,

2 – Sugarloaf
Rio tends to evoke many clichés: samba, girls, soccer and… the Sugarloaf. The landmark deserves its fame: from the top of Pão de Açúcar hill (the Sugarloaf) one has a 360-degree view of green peaks and sea hugging high-rises and the Guanabara Bay. Not surprisingly, the gondolas that take tourists on the two-part trip to the 287 meter-high belvedere are always full on clear days. As the gondola starts to rise and the panorama unfolds, one hears cameras clicking and oohs and aahs in all languages, from German to Japanese. The morning is the best time for photos, with the sun rising from the sea and lighting up the lush green mountains that enclose the city. T: 55 21 2546-8400


3- Copacabana Palace Hotel
Cariocas, as the inhabitants of Rio are called, have a special bond with this grand hotel, which is the jewel of Copacabana beach. Nicknamed Copa, it is known for its gigantic pool, white stucco façade and, above all, the glitzy gala dinners, weddings and Carnival balls it hosts, attended by Brazilian TV royalty and bejeweled socialites. Extensive renovations, started in 1989 when it was bought by the Orient-Express chain, have restored Rio’s classiest five-star to its former glory. Stop in for a caipirinha cocktail by the pool, or for the traditional – and quite hearty - feijoada (the typical Brazilian stew of black beans with meats, sautéed kale and orange slices), served on Saturdays. Or, if your budget allows it, make it your home base: rates for the stately and elegant rooms start at US$ 270. Avenida Atlântica, 1702, Copacabana, T: 55 21 2548 7070

4- Posto 9, Ipanema
The girl from Ipanema is now the middle-aged mom of a Playboy cover girl, yet the beach that inspired the tune continues to be Rio’s coolest, even if its waters aren’t always the cleanest. Different crowds – gays, mothers with babies, surfers - hang out at separate spots of this 2-kilometer long stretch of sand. Their “territories” are marked by the tall, numbered towers which house public showers and restrooms. The younger, more scantily-clad cariocas (and tanned, pretty girls from Ipanema) congregate near tower number nine, or Posto 9 . Arrive early, open a tab with one of the beach vendors (who will serve you ice-cold beers and caipirinhas all day), and look around as the beach fills up: this is people-watching at its finest!

5- Gero restaurant
Getting a table at Gero is an exercise in patience. Waits are long not just because this is, hands down, Rio’s best Italian restaurant, but also because it is the best spot in town to be and be seen. The classic Northern Italian menu – think risotto with partridge and raddichio, ossobucco alla milanese, white polenta with squid, etc. – is quite like what is served at the flagship Gero, which has been one of São Paulo’s top restaurants for nearly a decade. Owner Rogério Fasano usually does the rounds of the tables, quietly greeting politicians, socialites and celebrities. Dinner for two with a bottle of wine, at about US$ 100, is relatively expensive, but worth it for the rare glimpse of Rio’s high society.
Gero: Rua Aníbal de Mendonça, 157, Ipanema, T: 55 21 2239-8158

6- Prainha beach
When cariocas want to escape the city and swim in clear, clean waters, they drive about half an hour south to Prainha, which is Portuguese for “little beach”. A favorite of surfers and their bronzed girlfriends, gets as crowded as Barra da Tijuca and other more urban beaches on weekends, when young boys charge as much as US$ 5 to “keep an eye” on cars, but is blissfully quiet during the week. This small stretch of sand and sea is especially recommended to travelers who might feel queasy about the notices that often run in local papers warning that well-known beaches such as Ipanema and Barra da Tijuca are “improper for bathing”, because of polluted waters. Plan on spending the day, to make the long cab ride worth it. For a spectacular taste of home-cooked seafood, drive up a steep cobblestoned hill and have a late lunch at Tia Palmira on the way back. A fixed price of approximately US$ 13 per person buys a true banquet. A succession of shrimp, crab and fish fritters, dumplings, stews and escabeches is served in a sun-drenched patio overlooking the sea. Waitresses will keep on bringing more and more of their tasty shrimp specialties, until you beg them to stop. Tia Palmira: Caminho do Souza, 18, T: 55 21 2410-8169

7- Bracarense bar
Botequins – casual, cheap bars open to the street, which mostly serve chilled draft beer and finger food – are the soul of Rio. On any given weekend afternoon, the city’s botequins will be filled with loud groups of friends gathered around small tables, many still sporting their bathing suits and flip-flops. The Bracarense is the most famous and crowded of all, despite the unattentive waiters and the shabby interior. Why, then, is it so successful? Because its draft beer has a deliciously creamy foam and the manioc and shrimp fritters are heavenly. Also, its location, in a leafy block of fashionable Leblon district a mere two blocks from the beach attracts intellectuals and pretty young things alike.

8- Handgliding over the Tijuca national park
Running off a platform mounted on a steep wooded cliff, then gliding over a stretch of tropical forest – even when accompanied by an experienced instructor – is not for everyone. Those who choose to take the plunge, however, are rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the Gavea and Bonita rock peaks, and the magical feeling of floating 600 meters above sea level, without a noise but that of the wind hitting the glider’s colorful wings. Experts agree that Rio is the most gorgeous urban setting in the world for this sport: on a clear day you can see not only Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, but the Sugarloaf and even the skyline of Niteroi, a neighboring city. Outfitters like German sportsman Konrad Heilman charge approximately Can$ 130 for the flight, including the transfer service to and from your hotel in an air-conditioned van. Filmed proof of your courageous adventure, saved on a DVD, will set you back another $ 65. T: 55 21 9843-9006

9 – Botanical gardens
An alley lined with 137 imposing Imperial Palms divides the beautifully landscaped 141 acres of the Botanical Garden, founded in 1808. Most plant species are cultivated outdoors, around ponds and bronze busts of botanists. One of the prettiest alleys is the one lined with century-old mango trees covered with orchids and bromeliads. A large portion of the garden reproduces a typical Amazonian forest, complete with 30-meter tall trees, waterplants and mangroves. The restored blue-and-white colonial farmhouse where King John VI of Portugal used to stay during his visits now houses a coffeeshop and stores which sell books and souvenirs. Rua Jardim Botânico, 920, T: 55 21 2294-9349

10 – Dias Ferreira Street
There is no better way to get around Rio’s beaches than on foot (except maybe jogging, if you ask the thousands that go for their morning runs on the well-kept beach boardwalks). That is especially true in Leblon, the tony neighborhood that is separated from Ipanema by a canal. Here you can stroll by most of the city’s nicest boutiques and restaurants. Make sure you don’t miss Dias Ferreira street, which has the city’s highest concentration of top addresses. On it are Rio’s finest ice cream parlor (Mil Frutas), where fresh tropical fruits like açaí and cajú are churned into creamy scoops of heaven, the most popular salad restaurant (Celeiro) www.restauranteceleiro.com.br and best magazine shop (Argumento) . Other precious finds include the restaurants Carlota and Sushi Leblon.

Le Pré Catalan, in Rio: when hotel dining is done right

I'm always wary of hotel restaurants in Brazil - many tend to be souless and corporate-feeling, especially when they're in a big chain hotel.

Rio`s Le Pré Catalan is an exception to the rule. It's located in the mezanine of the Sofitel and serves some of the most refined and inventive food in Rio. Chef Roland Villard, a Frenchman, bien sur, serves high-end food that combines French technique and Brazilian ingredients. Examples? Rack of tambaqui, a huge Amazonian fish.

Some dishes don't seem the most appropriate for the tropics - like his rigatoni stuffed with shredded quail and foie gras, au gratin.

Le Pré Catalan's claim to fame is its dessert cart, also done à la française. Think crème brulée, mousses and fruit tartelettes. But the view, too, is hard to beat: the salon faces famed Copacabana beach.

Le Pré Catelan (Hotel Sofitel Rio)

Av. Atlântica, 4240, Copacabana
tel: (55-21) 2525-1160

More Rio in Brazil for Insiders:

Carnival

1. Samba schools parade: the full schedule and ticket prices
2. Rio street carnival 2009 - the schedule of the best street blocos (parades)
3. Rio's best samba schools: complete listing of grupo especial escolas
4. Winners of 2009 Carnival parades are announced: Salgueiro is #1!
5. Best websites to see photos of the 2009 Carnival camarotes and parties
   

Dining

1. Roberta Sudbrack: the best chef in Rio?
2. Terzetto Café: great breakfast spot in Ipanema
3. The best restaurants in Rio according to the experts
4. Bráz, Carlota... São Paulo restaurants open Rio outposts

Hotels

1. The best hotels in Barra da Tijuca
2. Sheraton has the best spa in Barra da Tijuca
3. The Ouro Verde, in Copacabana: and old classic has gone downhill
4. La Maison, in Gávea, is one of Rio's best places to stay
5. The best hotels in Leblon, Rio
6. The best hotels in Ipanema, Rio
7. Hotel Fasano Rio, in Ipanema: the best in town
8. The best hotels in Copacabana, Rio
9. The best hotels in Santa Teresa, Rio
10. The hotel Santa Teresa, in Santa Teresa, Rio: a full report with photos

Fashion and Shopping

1. Best shops in Ipanema: Lenny, Mara Mac, etc.
   
2. Fashion Rio, the biggest fashion event
3. Rio's best beauty addresses

Attractions/ Sightseeing

1. Rio Ferris wheel opens in Copacabana
2. Artists Nuno Ramos and Vik Muniz open shows in Rio
3. Corredor Chopin: new art hub nextdoor to the Copacabana Palace hotel
4. Museu da República museum shows contemporary art

Rio: where to eat good cod (bacalhau), Portuguese-style

One of my all-time favorite blogs is called D.O.C. (De Origem Carioca), and is written by Veja Rio's restaurant critic Fernanda Thedim. Recently, she listed her favorite spots to eat bacalhau (salted cod) in Rio. Portuguese cuisine is alive and well in Rio - hence the abundance of places serving the country's national dish. In fact, Rio boasts even more Portuguese restaurants than São Paulo, which is Brazil's foodie capital. Here are some of the ones Fernanda recommends:

A MARISQUEIRA
Rua Barata Ribeiro, 232, loja A, Copacabana, tel. 55-21 2547-3920
Bacalhau à mário soares: cod pan-fried with garlic, served with potatoes and a sauce of peppers, tomatoes and onions (R$ 110 for two).

ADEGÃO PORTUGUÊS
Campo de São Cristóvão, 212, loja A, São Cristóvão, tel. 2580-7288/8689; Avenida das Américas, 7777, 3º piso (Rio Design Barra), Barra, tel. 2431-2958 e 2438-1178.
Bacalhau à lagareiro (roasted with olive oil, potatoes and broccoli; R$ 88,00 )

ALFAIA
Rua Inhangá, 30, loja B, Copacabana, tel. 2236-1222 e 2255-8882.
Bacalhau à patuscada, with fried garlic, broccoli, boiled potatoes and black olives (R$ 123,00 for two)

ANTIQUARIUS
Rua Aristides Espínola, 19, Leblon, tel. 2294-1049.
At Rio's most famous (and best) Portuguese restaurant, they serve bacalhau nunca chega (R$ 89,00): shredded and tossed with onion, chopped ham, eggs and shoestring fries.

BACALHAU DO REI
Rua Marquês de São Vicente, 11, loja A, Gávea, tel. 2239-8945.
Bacalhau à gomes de sá (casserole of shredded cod, potatoes, garlic, onion, eggs and olives; R$ 104,00 for two).

BARRACUDA
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, s/nº, loja 6, (Marina da Glória), Flamengo, tel. 2265-4641/2205-3346.
Tigelinha de bacalhau à conde da guarda: shredded cod mixed with potato mash and cream, served au gratin (R$ 31,00).

More dining in Rio:

1. Roberta Sudbrack: the best chef in Rio?
2. Terzetto Café: great breakfast spot in Ipanema
3. The best restaurants in Rio according to the experts
4. Bráz, Carlota... São Paulo restaurants open Rio outposts