São Luis do Maranhão, capital of hand painted tiles.

by Antonella Kann

São Luis, in the far northeast, has less than one million inhabitants and is the only city in Brazil which was founded by the French in 1612. A couple of decades later the Dutch invaded it. But, as far as construction is concerned, the capital of Maranhão was completely built by the Portuguese.

Located on a island, the only place really worth visiting is its old town, where you can stroll for hours among more than 5 thousand colonial sites which date from the 17th and 19th centuries.

Bear in mind that São Luis has the largest collection in the whole of Latin America of ancient hand painted Portuguese tiles , spread along the colonial façades in the old quarter.

You are unlikely to be bored because the narrow streets are lively, people are friendly and there is lots of tourist shops with attractive and colorful artifacts. And on the sidewalks you´ll find stalls selling fruits, coconut water, and local food, like fried fish. A tip: don´t miss the market.

Luckily, it´s quite safe to walk with your camera and just act like a tourist...But just beware late at night and off-bounderies of the old town. Though São Luis is not a foodie destination, try the shrimp pie, a regional specialty.

The city is also framed by beautiful beaches, like Calhau, Olho d´Àgua and Ponta d `Areia. And the temperature is warm year –round. If you have time, book a tour on a catamaran to visit the former capital, Alcantara. It´s a mere half-day trip and you´ll enjoy the sites as well as the sailing.

After a rain shower, the lights are fantastic.

A sundowner to watch the sunset is worthwhile. But the best restaurants will be in the new parts of town.

the sunset in São Luis. No comment.

But try to plan your visit on your way to Lençois Maranhenses, one of the main attractions of the state of Maranhão. But I will write about this magical desert on a later stage.

Charming Paraty under the rain: a reflection of colonial time

by Antonella Kann

There are a few spots in the world which remain unspoilt even when it rains. The bad news is that there aren´t many. But luckily for us, Paraty is one of those places where even when hit by the bad weather ( quite often, I must add) it never looses its charismatic beauty.

This colonial town, built by the Portuguese in the 16th century , is a World Heritage site and all of its buildings remain intact. Paraty is a piece of art framed by the lush vegetation of the Mata Atlantica. Located less than three hours by car from Rio, it´s easily reached on the Rio-Santos highway. But make sure you leave before three in the afternoon or you´ll be stuck for ages in heavy traffic.

For the last couple of years, every time I set foot in this romantic town it was pouring. The last time was at my son´s wedding, who, like many young couples, had chosen Paraty to celebrate D Day. But even under such circumstances, the event was a success.

Photographers never get tired of browsing the labyrinth of streets and alleys which usually lead to a church or a praça (square). You can easily get lost, but not for long. The sea and the port, as well as the Praça da Matriz, are your references and if you are surprised by a sudden shower, you can always retire into a bar, and have a few glasses of cachaça, the speciality of Paraty.

The beauty of its architecture with colourful facades are only one of the many attributes that attract thousands of visitors year-round. Besides strolling on the cobbled-stoned pedestrian-only alleys, you may splurge your time between eating and shopping. The restaurant Banana da Terra is one of the traditional establishments and although the food is simple, think fresh fish and regional condiments. The leading ingredient is, of course, banana. Salty and in sweets, too.

There are a range of excellent restaurants and accommodation from the simple bed & breakfast to top five stars pousadas, like the Casa Turquesa www.casaturquesa.com.br where guests are surprised by the superb suites overlooking a quiet inner garden. Of course, these regal choices don´t come out cheap, but Paraty itself is not only for savvy travellers. Another very hospitable and much more affordable place to stay is Pousada Arte Urquijo www.urquijo.com.br where rooms are cozy and you feel at home.

Suddenly, when Paraty is as wet as it can be, it seems like a ghost town. And even though, it´s beautiful. The Serra da Bocaina, above and around, is stunning. The sea, framing the port and all the fishing boats, is also a magic sight.

Last, but not least: every Saturday there is a very typical puppet theatre, called Contadores de Histórias ( Story Tellers), at the Espaço Cultural Paraty. This is not to be missed. You´ll never see something similar anywhere else. Make a booking beforehand and enjoy your experience. Even if it rains…

there are hundreds of labels for the cachaça, so feel free to browse - and try!

Tiradentes, a return to the past

the Maria Fumaça old fashioned train

by Antonella Kann
The 21st of April is approaching and it´s a National Holiday in Brazil, as it celebrates the execution of a martyr named Joaquim da Silva Xavier, known as Tiradentes. He was one of the revolutionary leaders of the Inconfidencia Mineira in the 17th century, a conspiration against the government, which shook the country´s History and was crucial for our Independence.

But let´s take this opportunity to talk about the small mining town which now bears its name: Tiradentes, which was after all the headquarters of this very important political movement. Located in the state of Minas Gerais, only 300 kilometres from Rio de Janeiro, it was designated a National Historic Site in 1938. Tiradentes has managed to preserve its architectural wonders from the past, as well as an 18th century atmosphere, and nowadays it´s considered one of Brazil´s most picturesque colonial towns.

the Matriz Church

The Maria Fumaça train is one of the symbol of this historic spot. It was inaugurated in 1881 by D. Pedro II and is a tourist attraction that links the neighboring city of São João del Rey to Tiradentes. The journey takes half an hour and most people just come to spend a few hours in town.

typical restaurant

Due to several cultural events, there´s a constant flow of visitors all year round. In January, there´s a film festival, in June the annual encounter of Harley´s bikers and a very competitive gastronomy festival in August. Besides this, the surrounding hills that frame Tiradentes attract crowds of eco-tourists hiking the pathways used in the past by the Inconfidentes.

Pousada Solar da Ponte

Cars seem out of place in a small town where all the streets are paved with uneven stones. Best way to visit the sights of Tiradentes is either by foot, exploring every little alley and narrow street, or by horse-drawn carriages, which can be hailed in the Largo das Forras, which is the main square. Some paths are really steep, so if you choose to walk, wear appropriate shoes.

Pousada dos Inconfidentes

Cars seem out of place in a small town where all the streets are paved with uneven stones. Best way to visit the sights of Tiradentes is either by foot, exploring every little alley and narrow street, or by horse-drawn carriages, which can be hailed in the Largo das Forras, which is the main square. Some paths are really steep, so if you choose to walk, wear appropriate shoes.

Praça das Forras, main square

Don´t forget to visit the Rosário church , also known as the church of the Negroes. Slaves were able to build it with the gold they used to hide underneath their fingernails. Have a look at the Largo do Ó, the Padre Toledo Museum and the former prison.

You will be delighted with Tiradentes´historical atmosphere, and surprised by the excellency of its hotels, two of which were selected by the prestigious Conde Nast Johansen´s guide. Check for the Pousada dos Inconfidentes ( www.pousadadosinconfidentes.com.br), a sophisticated establishment located a couple of kilometers away from the town center, and the Solar da Ponte ( www.solardaponte.com.br) , a traditional hotel a stone´s throw from the main square and the historic center, restaurants and shops.

As far as food is concerned, this is certainly one of the few places in Brazil gathering so many restaurants boasting a star from reputed Guia 4 Rodas. You can choose from the typical mineiro to sushi, but French and Italian as well. And they all are walking distance from any place you´re staying.

Micos at the Solar da Ponte: tea time

the Chafariz

Carved wood, iron sculptures, decorative wood sculptures, ceramics, cloths, bed spreads, carpets, rugs, pewter, you name it. There are souvenirs shops galore selling all kind of art crafts for reasonable prices. Besides eating and sightseeing, you can shop until you drop in Tiradentes.

typical mineira food: pork chops, sausage and couve

artcrafts found in several shops

Rua Direita, one of the famous alleys