Brazil for Insiders

Nov 18, 2009

Serra Verde Express: Brazil's first luxury train

The Serra Verde Express goes from Curitiba to the port of Paranaguá, criscrossing forests and the beautiful Serra do Mar making stops in quaint towns like Morretes and Antonina.

It's no Orient-Express but hey... it's better than no train at all! :)

Curitiba to Paranaguá, stopping at Túnel Roça Nova, Santuário do Cadeado and Estação Véu da Noiva.

Here's their top-of-the-line section:

Getting to Curitiba just to go on a train ride wouldn't make any sense, but if your travels ever took you that way.... it's something to consider.

Nov 15, 2009

Réveillon in Boipeba beach, Bahia: New Year's packages

Luca Martucci is an Italian who lives in Brazil and owns a bespoke travel company: Cultour. He's offering a six-day trip to beautiful Boipeba, in Bahia's Dendê Coast, for New Year's (Réveillon). Here's what it includes:

Wed 30.12 – Salvador/Boipeba

Private transfer in a van to Graciosa, where a speedboat will take the group to unspoiled Boipeba Island, part of the Arquipélago de Tinharé, South of Salvador.

Sunset at Boca da Barra beach, at the mouth of the Rio do Inferno.

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Thurs 31.12 – Boipeba – CULTURE DAY “BYE BYE 2009”

Schooner ride to the Praia de Bainema, to swim in the natural pools created by the coral reefs. At night, party at the “Coqueiro” bar, on Boca da Barra. Fireworks and champagne on the beach at midnight.
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Friday 01.01 – Boipeba

Hangover day.
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Sábado 02.01 – Boipeba

Speedboat tour to Ponta dos Castelhano (deserted beach) and Coroa Alta. Lunch at fishermen's village.
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Sunday 03.01 – Boipeba

Trekking along the Banheirinho, Tassimirim and Cueira beaches. More swimming in natural pools created by the coral reefs.

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04.01 – back to Salvador

COST PER PERSON:

Pousadas Alma Viva e Casinha Amarela
3.500 Reais (double occ.)

Pousada Rhydayam
3.150 Reais (double occ.)

To book, call Luca at Cultour: +55 71 88216855
or email him at lucamartucci@cultour.it

Rio mayor hires Madonna to sing at the Copacabana New Year's Party

Não estrague o Réveillon mais bonito do mundo, governador

By Ricardo Freire, a.k.a. The Professional Tourist, author of the
Viaje na Viagem travel blog and guides

Here's a disclaimer for those who might be reading this without knowing where I stand:

1) I love Rio more than the city where I was born, the city where I live and more than anywhere I've ever visitted.
2) I find the New Year's celebration in Copacabana (Réveillon de Copacabana) the most beautiful thing ever
3) I support the Rio 2016 Olympics in a nearly unconditional way

BUT: who knows what Rio mayor Eduardo Paes was thinking when he announced he'd hired Madonna to sing at the 2011 Réveillon.

Hello, mr. Mayor: without Madonna, millions of people already show up at the beach for the year end celebrations. With a free Madonna show, the whole country might set up camp there.

It's irresponsible - I repeat: ir-res-pon-si-ble - to create a monster demand for an event that, as it is, can not accomodate any more spectators than the ones it usually draws.

The actual purpose of the beach shows during the Réveillon should not be to attract more poeple, but rather, to entertain those that are there anyways. It's more of a fun samba night, no need to call up mrs. Jesus Luz.

Réveillon with Madonna, besides spoiling the experience for those who like to spend New Year's in Rio, will increase tenfold the safety problems - and, in the worst case scenario, lead to mob pushing and pounding like those that happen in Meca.

Want to hire Madonna to sing, despite the opposition of the locals, who are sick and tired of megashows at the beach? Fine, but do it on a night when the beach would otherwise be empty, and not on a night when every single Brazilian is off work and looking for a fun place to be in at the countdown to the new year.

Want to tell the world how amazing Rio's Réveillon is? Then invite Madonna - or any A-list pop star - to attend the party as a guest. He or she could even take part in some of the traditional rituals, such as dressing in white, hopping seven waves on one foot for good luck or sending presents out to see to Iemanjá, the sea goddess. Então traz a Madonna, ou qualquer outro pop star de primeiríssimo time, para assistir ao Réveillon. Heck, get her a biodegradable Kabala to throw out to sea, if that's what it takes. There.

That'll be enough to get Rio's Réveillon in the headlines all over the world, without actually ruining the fun.

More Rio on this blog:

Dining and bars (botecos)

Hotels

Fashion and Shopping

Attractions/ Sightseeing

Nov 14, 2009

Cruise down the Negro and Solimões rivers aboard Spanish cruise ship

The Amazon, king of rivers, is fed by a myriad smaller rivers which compose the Amazonian basin, a full 50.000 km of them navigable for medium-sized vessels. It measures an incredible 320 km in width where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. The two main rivers that merge to form the Amazon are the Negro and the Solimões.

The Iberostar Grand Collection is a 2.200 ton luxury ship with 72 cabins and two suites, distributed among three passenger decks.This ship also has two restaurants, two bars, a ballroom, two pools, a gym room and, best of all, it's all adults-only!

Three nights down the Rio Solimões
Includes trekking in the Manacapuru region, motorboat rides along wetlands, piranha fishing, gator spotting, game viewing, visitting local villages.

Four nights down the Rio Negro 
Includes a visit to the Arquipélago das Anavilhanas, one of the largest freshwater archipelagos in the world; pink dolphin watching; riding at night in a motorboat to observe wildlife; visitting an Indian village, folklore show.

IBEROSTAR Grand Amazon
Porto de Manaus, Amazonas
Reservations: reservas.manaus@iberostar.com.br
Tel: (55-92) 2126-9900

Uxua hotel in Trancoso, Bahia: photos of the Casa Seu João "suite"

The small and exclusive Uxua hotel in Trancoso isn't news to readers of this blog: I've written about it before, here. As the press release explains, "UXUA (pronounced ooh-shoo-ah) is a tropical utopia composed of nine unique houses offering total privacy with the added comfort of five-star hotel services. This stunning and unique destination enjoyed a May 2009 grand opening and has already hosted the likes of 11 world-famous supermodels and photographer Terry Richardson during the 2010 Pirelli Calendar shoot, as well as well-known Brazilian socialites and celebs.

UXUA, which in local native Pataxó Indian language means marvelous, is under the ownership and direction of long-time Diesel Creative Director Wilbert Das who realized the project as a tribute to the area of southern Bahia which he loves. Over three years Wilbert tapped Colonial, indigenous, and Afro-Bahian histories, arts and customs, and collaborated with local artisans using traditional building methods and recycled materials."

I just received some amazing pictures of one of its "casas", or suites - the Casa Seu João - which made me want to hop on a plane and just go. Be in Trancoso. Wake up facing the Quadrado (the town green). It's got to be my favourite spot in the world!

The Casa São João is one of a few original fisherman's houses which were bought and renovated by owner Wilbert Das. As the press release puts it, "accommodations at UXUA are found in nine extraordinary casas, each exquisitely outfitted with all of the accoutrements and special services that bring the property to the five-star level. Each has an indoor / outdoor living room, a full gourmet kitchen and sumptuous bedrooms (1-3 depending on the casa) with ensuite bath."

Well, the Casa Seu João, specifically, is exactly what the doctor ordered. It feels like a private beach house, with rustic armoires:

And a tub with a faucet fashioned out of a reclaimed tree branch:

Trancoso being warm year-round, there's not much need for walls:

I especially love the super cute and rustic kitchen:

Above the canopied bed, wooden shingles:

The bed faces the casa's private pool and garden:

Where there's a table for al fresco brunches:

And a pool all your own:

And right next to it, a daybed for lazy post-beach naps:

And, last but not least, an outdoor shower disguised as a tree trunk:

Rates per casa, per night start from $541 during low season (March through November) and $706 during high season (December through February).

Guests fly into São Paulo, Salvador, or Rio, and connect via numerous national and international airlines with multiple direct daily flights to Porto Seguro, a 1hr. cab ride from Trancoso and UXUA.

UXUA Casa Hotel: www.uxua.com. tel. +55 73 3668-2277

Photos: Fernando Lombardi

And more Trancoso on this blog:

Nov 13, 2009

Cheap packages to Pernambuco state offered by Brazilian tour operators

Photos © Alexandra Forbes

It almost sounds too good to be true, and in principle I do hate package deals, but.... the quoted prices on the press release below are simply incredible and I just had to share them with you.

I'd never recommend any of these package tours to anyone who already knows Brazil and/or can speak a bit of Portuguese, but for first-times who like travelling with a group, or for young open-minded types they could be a good bet. Here is the press release I got:

"Brazil Tour Operators Offer Deals for Winter for Only $392

New York, NY, November 12, 2009 – A sleepy state on Brazil’s northeast coast is starting to attract Americans. Relatively undiscovered until now, Pernambuco has much to interest visitors including 116 miles of pristine coastline, charming 16th century architecture, delicious seafood and terrific toe-tapping music. So while Rio has been getting the lion’s share of attention up till now, that may change as savvy travelers head for Recife (pictured above) and Porto de Galinhas.

Lying on almost two miles of white sand beach, the capital of Recife has a laidback vibe that recalls the Miami Beach of yesteryear. And it offers fabulous dining – the city’s restaurants are rated second highest in the country. (ed note: NOT TRUE! RESTAURANTS IN GENERAL ARE MANY NOTCHES BELOW WHAT YOU'D FIND IN RIO OR SAO PAULO) The Portuguese settled in Pernambuco in the 1530s and with the riches from sugar cane built beautifully ornate churches.

Set on a hill next to Recife is Olinda, a UNESCO World Heritage site with dozens of beautiful 16th and 17th century churches and monasteries.

Lining the town’s cobble stone streets are art galleries, restaurants, bars, boutiques and charming pousadas housed in centuries-old mansions.

Just down the coast is Porto de Galinhas, its warm crystalline waters drawing surfers, divers and kite surfers. Brazilians have voted it the country’s most beautiful beach – for seven years in a row! (ED NOTE: IT'S NICE BUT OVER-BUILT AND TOURISTY, and I have no idea who voted it Brazil's most beautiful beach) (...) And everywhere – in the beach bars and clubs – is the infectious beat of the local country music, called forró.

Members of the Brazil Tour Operators Association are offering some great deals this winter. From now through December 19, Borello Travel & Tours is offering a seven day/six night “Escape to the Beach” package to Recife, Olinda and Porto de Galinhas that starts at only $392 per person, double occupancy. It includes: three nights at the 3-star Best Western Manibu in Recife; a full-day city tour that includes Olinda; a half-day cultural tour with a museum visit; a tour of an artist’s workshop and a catamaran sail; three nights at the 3-star Armação Hotel in Porto de Galinhas; full Brazilian breakfast daily; roundtrip airport transfers, and hotel taxes. Borello Travel can arrange air from Miami for $661.70 and from New York for $682.70; both include $170.70 in taxes. From January 4 to March 30, 2010, the cost of the package will be $598, per person, double. Package is subject to availability, and prices are higher for the Carnival period (February 12-17.) Call: 1-800-405-3072

Just Brazil Vacations by Hotur is offering a six-day/five-night Pernambuco packages starting at $2,489 per person, double occupancy (January 7 - March 30, 2010) which includes roundtrip airfare from Miami, six nights accommodations: two nights in Recife at the five-star Atlante Plaza, two in Olinda at the Pousada Sete Colinas and one at the Nannai Beach Resort in Porto Galinhas; daily Brazilian breakfast, half day city sightseeing in each city, a walking tour of historic Olinda, local tour guides and hotel service charges and taxes. Prices through December 23 start at $2,799, per person, double occupancy. Higher rates apply for Carnival. Call: 1-877-468-8707

Brazil Nuts is offering a “Delights of Olinda” package for $995 per person, double occupancy that includes roundtrip airfare from Miami to Recife, three nights at the charming Sete Colinas in Olinda, daily breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, hotel taxes and a private half-day sightseeing tour of Recife. The package is available until December 15 and from January 3 to March 31, 2010. Prices are higher for the Carnival period. Call: 1-800-553-9959 The Brazil Tour Operators Association aims to raise awareness of its active members as Brazil travel experts and heighten visibility among North American travelers for all the destinations in Brazil."

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: This blog has not tested the packages or the hotels proposed and cannot vouch for their quality. The packages are quite inexpensive, and usually, as anywhere else, you get what you pay for...

Writer and photographer Antonella Kann, globetrotter since birth, has been covering travel for 15 years. She contributes to several Brazilian and international magazines, such as the TAM and TAP inflights, Destinations (New Zealand), Rio's O GLOBO newspaper. She has a column in IATE magazine, about nautical travel. At the end of2009, she launched Instantes do Mundo, her fist photography book, with nearly 120 images taken in her last 2o years of travels. A confessed travel-addict, she still has plenty to explore.